maxxis high rollers

rustyg

hey guys
i need new tyres for my bike its a giant xtc sx am looking at the high rollers , i was just going to get them from halfords are these tyres gd , they seem to get gd write ups but i see u get diff types of high rollers is the halford ones ok ??


cheers rusty

stevet1992

my local halfords only seem to stock the super tacky ones, extra grip but wear down faster

high rollers in my experience make a great front tyre but a rubbish back one especially in the mud, maybe try a high roller up front with something like an ignitor on the rear

xtreem

On road they are crap.
The center knobs are not that close to eachother so you don't get a smooth rolling.

Offroad they are ok, but I hate them when the front skids and I fall.
Sometimes I love them.

Grindy

I currently run High Rollers (steel wire, 70a) front and rear for commuting and haven't had any problems. The ride is smooth (although noisey) and when pumped up to 55 psi, don't seem to drag. However the side walls do seem a little thin (I ripped one open on a pothole).

sniper68

I'm 13.5 stone and run single-ply DH 2.35X 42A supertacky up front 30psi/60A rear 35psi.I'm a recent convert and love them 8) Stick like glue in the Peak District except in mud.Probably the best tyre i've used(and i've tried dozens).
As said the 42A wear quicker due to softer compound,mines been on about 6 months and is just about Goosed.
Get them from CRC for £19.99 each.

toasty

If they're for general XC/trail riding I wouldn't get the Halfords ones, they only seem to do wire bead which weighs a ton more for not much of a saving in cash.

I like the 2.35" High Roller on my Meta, not a fan of the 2.1" though, very narrow. I opted for 2.1" Nevegals/Blue Groove which is what I've stuck on the Zaskar. Much wider without much more weight.

I think my 2.1" High Roller is destined to live in the shed forever as a backup tyre.

littleandy0410

I use the 2.1 62a Kevlar, been really impressed with them so far.

SOOOO much better than the Captains which came on my FSR. The Kevlar ones are less than 500g too, so pretty light.

sniper68

Toasty wrote:

If they're for general XC/trail riding I wouldn't get the Halfords ones, they only seem to do wire bead which weighs a ton more for not much of a saving in cash.

They weigh about 800g,i use them....no point trying to save 300g when you weigh 13.5st 8)

stumpyjon

Actually 300g on a wheel is going to make quite a difference as it directly affects acceleration, particularly on the back. Heavy tyres can make a light nippy bike very sluggish. If you're going to save weight then the wheels will make the most difference.

I'm saying this from experience after buying 2.35 High Rollers, dual ply wire bead. Each one weighs nearly a kilo :shock: and makes my bike handle like a tanker on XC duties(especially with one on the back). Had a brain fart when I bought them, dual ply I thought, they'll be nice and tough, didn't think about the weight penalty.

I echo what others have said about High Rollers and mud, they're not good on the back in the mud (I've tried 2.1s and 2.35s). I'm currently running one of the uber heavy 2.35s on the front paired with a Panaracer Trailraker on the rear. I'll probably swap the front out for the 2.1 next time I go out (the 2.35 was on for a really rocky local trail centre). Come summer (whenever that is) I'll swap out the Trailraker for my other High Roller 2.1 on the rear.

sniper68

stumpyjon wrote:

Actually 300g on a wheel is going to make quite a difference as it directly affects acceleration, particularly on the back. Heavy tyres can make a light nippy bike very sluggish. If you're going to save weight then the wheels will make the most difference.

At 13.5stone,camelback that weighs at least 10lbs,bike that weighs 29lbs....300g per wheel means jack.I used to run Bonty Big Earl Wets @1300g+ per tyre,never noticed any difference in how the bike turned/accelerated etc.
Might make a(slight) difference if you're an 8stone wet through racing snake.

littleandy0410

stumpyjon wrote:

Come summer (whenever that is)

July 17th, at 14.33. Make sure you you don't miss it!

IBBO68, 300g per tyre is near a lb and a half, that's quite a difference, especially in rotating mass. That would make you 29lb bike 27.5lb!

10lb camelbak!? What are you carrying!? 4.5l of water!?

ESHER SHORE

having used High Rollers for years in FR and DH, there are much better alternative tires for "trail riding"


I moved away from High Rollers recently when I got a short travel freeride bike that is light enough for trail riding (XC) and have been experimenting with Specialized's XC tires like their S Works "Captain" and "Eskar" and for dry conditions the "Fast Trak LK"

these are all considerably lighter than even the skinny single ply 2.1 High Roller or slightly fatter 2.35" High Rollers, and actually work better in the winter with more climbing traction or mud traction..the dual compound and kevlar bead 2 bliss casing works great with tubeless conversion like the Stans No-Tubes I use, the High Rollers were very hit and miss when trying to inflate with Stans


the S-Works Captains I used this winter dropped about 300gms over the 2.1" High Roller I previously installed, yet are larger with a bigger air volume, which made my bike feel may more nimble for climbing, singletrack and even descending, there is no point carrying more weight when the heavier High Roller actually had less trail performance in terms of climbing grip or cornering bite in the slop

High Rollers are great FR / DH tires but don't make any sense to me for trail riding.....

sniper68

littleandy0410 wrote:

stumpyjon wrote:

Come summer (whenever that is)

July 17th, at 14.33. Make sure you you don't miss it!

IBBO68, 300g per tyre is near a lb and a half, that's quite a difference, especially in rotating mass. That would make you 29lb bike 27.5lb!

10lb camelbak!? What are you carrying!? 4.5l of water!?

No.
3ltrs of water=8lbs+pack weight+tools/pump/spare tubes/water proof etc.10lb is a reasonable estimate,probably weighs more,i might even weigh it out of curiosity.*Edit*weighed pack :roll: and its 2.7lbs without bladder.Surprising.
Just to put it in perspective a sandwich and a few cake bars will probably weigh 300g The Air in the tyres probably weighs more than the tyres.
If you're Lance Armstrong save a few grammes,if you're Joe Average don't worry about it.
10 years ago we were riding 40lb+ bikes :roll:

I moved away from High Rollers recently when I got a short travel freeride bike that is light enough for trail riding (XC) and have been experimenting with Specialized's XC tires like their S Works "Captain" and "Eskar" and for dry conditions the "Fast Trak LK"

The bike came with S-Works Eskar 2bliss,absolutely useless.The sidewalls were threadbare in less than 3 months.Grip wise ok,it just appears that spesh made the sidewalls out of tissue paper.Like all Spesh tyres i've used grip on wet rock(a must in the UK)is non-existant.
Depends where/how you ride i suppose.

toasty

ibbo68 wrote:

10 years ago we were riding 40lb+ bikes :roll:

Who was? Speak for yourself.

10 years ago I was riding a cromoly hardtail which was under 30lb. 8 years ago I had a full sus Specialized Enduro, just over 30lbs, air forks, air shock, Mavic wheelset, Easton finishing bits, 600g Specialized Team tyres. It was still classed as a fairly burly bike though, older Stumpjumpers and the like are much lighter.

Rotational mass makes a massive difference, even on a heavy bike, especially on a full suspension. When you're riding smooth your body weight will be travelling in a straight line, your wheels are spinning up and slowing down, while bouncing up and down, drastically more accelerations at work. You'll literally hold speed better with lighter wheels and unsprung mass.

Oh and I'm no racing snake, infact I'm quite a bit heavier than yourself, 6'6" and riding huge bikes!

97wilewa01

I am running High Rollers and when it comes to trail riding i find them to be really good and u can purchase them online for not much money at all!!

thehairs1970

Weight will make a huge difference! I can understand that 300g per tyre doesn't sound like much but it actually means you will carry two cans of coke around with you all day. Also the Camelbak should be a continuously reducing weight. If you start out with 3 litres (3kg)in the bladder then you should b aiming to drink 3L by the time you've finished. I know what you are thinking. The weight has gone from one bladder to another. Not so. You need to drink because your body has used fluids up and needs them to be replaced. So by the end of the ride you have probably reduced the weight you are carrying by 2kg.

I have no idea if this means High Rollers are good or bad but I do like to get involved with arguments.

I'd like recommendations for good budget, summer tyres for Dartmoor.

BH

sniper68

Rotational mass makes a massive difference, even on a heavy bike, especially on a full suspension. When you're riding smooth your body weight will be travelling in a straight line, your wheels are spinning up and slowing down, while bouncing up and down, drastically more accelerations at work. You'll literally hold speed better with lighter wheels and unsprung mass.

Is this why DHers have REALLY light wheels and tyres

I'd like recommendations for good budget, summer tyres for Dartmoor.

High Rollers 2.35 single-ply wire bead

Northwind

ibbo68 wrote:

Is this why DHers have REALLY light wheels and tyres

Sounds daft when you put it like that- but wheel companies put huge resources into making strong wheels as light as possible, and downhillers spend huge amounts of money on light strong wheels. So yes, downhillers have really light wheels, for the job they do.