Quick,please help,I need my bike for work!!!!

kurth
kurth Posts: 57
edited March 2009 in MTB beginners
Hi all,

I recently purchased a new stem and handlebars for my Diamondback Beta 08. But when I put them on,tightened them up,my forks and handlebars appear to be attached together but wobble everywhere.I thought it could have been a size issue or something,but when I put the stem and handlebars on that came with it,they wobble too....Is there a knack to putting stems on that I am missing out on???

Someone please help.I need my bike for work :(

Thanks

Comments

  • pdid
    pdid Posts: 1,065
    Assuming you have an aheadset type headset:

    1. Loosen the two Stem bolts at the top of the fork.
    2. You should have a top cap above the stem with a bolt in the middle of it. This is the preload for the bearings in the headset. Tighten this bolt slowly with small movements ie a sixteenth of a turn.
    3. After each turn pull your front brake and rock the bike forward to feel for play in the headset. If you feel a knock tighten again. And so on a so forth till there is no play. Don`t overtighten.
    4. Once the play is gone allign stem, tighten stem bolts. Job done.

    Also ensure your new stem has the same stack height as your old one ie the bit which attatches to your fork, if these are different you may need more or less spacers.

    Edit: Just checked and it is an aheadset.
  • kurth
    kurth Posts: 57
    Thanks mate....that helps....wil give it a go

    Thanks again :D
  • pdid
    pdid Posts: 1,065
    If your struggling with that this is how Park Tools word it:


    Headset Adjustment - Threadless Type
    Threadless headsets work on the same principal as threaded headsets. The bearing races need to press against the bearings. The bolt in the top cap will put pressure on the stem, which presses on washers below the stem, which press on the bearing races, which press against the bearings.

    NOTE: The cap and bolt at the top of the stem do not secure the stem onto the steering column. The bolt or bolts on the side of the stem keep the stem from moving once the adjustment is made. The cap is used for bearing adjustment only.
    Begin by removing the adjusting bolt in the center of the steering column. Next, remove the top cap. There may be a star-shaped nut or other fittings inside the steering column. The bolt threads into this fitting and pulls on the fork against the headset bearing surfaces, which acts to tighten the adjustment. Note the height of the steering column relative to the stem. It should be about 3mm (1/8") below the level of the stem. The stem needs to press down on the spacers in order to adjust the bearings. If the steering column is level with the top of the stem, another spacer is needed below the stem.

    1. Remove bolt and top cap to inspect steering column. Lubricate adjusting bolt and re-install cap and bolt by hand only. DO NOT TIGHTEN.
    2. Loosen stem bolt(s) that secure stem to the steering column. Lubricate these bolts if they are dry. NOTE: DO NOT LUBRICATE INSIDE STEM OR ON STEERING COLUMN SURFACE.
    3. Wiggle the stem side to side to see that it is loose. If the stem is jammed or rusted frozen to the steering column, no adjustment can be made.
    4. Align stem straight to wheel and gently secure the top bolt. Stop when any resistance is felt.
    5. Tighten stem bolt(s).
    6. Check for play by pulling back and forth on fork. Turn the handlebars in different directions while checking for play. There may be play at this early setting. Use care when grabbing suspension forks, because the legs may have play. Grab upper portion of fork.
    7. To adjust bearings, LOOSEN STEM BOLT(S).
    8. Turn adjusting bolt in center cap only 1/8th turn clockwise.
    9. Secure stem bolts, check for play again.
    10. Repeat adjustments as above until play disappears. Remember to loosen stem bolts before turning adjusting bolt in cap.
    11. Check alignment of stem and tighten stem binder bolts fully.

    NOTE: Another test of play is to place the bike on ground and grab the front brake tightly. Press downward on the handlebars and rock the bike forward and back. A knocking sensation may indicate a loose headset. In effect this does the same thing as grabbing and pulling on the fork. However, play in the brake caliper arms may also cause a knocking. Front suspension forks may also have play in the legs, which can cause a knocking.If the adjustment seems very tight, there may be other problems in the headset. Bearing surfaces may be worn out, or the ball bearing retainers may be upside down, or a seal may be improperly aligned. If play always seems present no matter the adjustment, the steering column may be too long for the stem and top cap. Add spacers beneath stem in this case.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Oh and if the new stem has a shorter stack height you will need some steerer spacers to stop the top cap bottoming out.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • kurth
    kurth Posts: 57
    Thanks pdid for the info.....and nicklouse,yeah,thats the problem I've got.I'm now left with a 10mm gap so I'm going to purchase some spacers tomorrow....do these look okay http://www.freetownsports.co.uk/proddet ... od=fts0792

    Thanks

    EDIT: Do these go above or below the stem???
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    personal preference it depends on where you want the bars.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Vivid
    Vivid Posts: 267
    kurth wrote:
    Thanks pdid for the info.....and nicklouse,yeah,thats the problem I've got.I'm now left with a 10mm gap so I'm going to purchase some spacers tomorrow....do these look okay http://www.freetownsports.co.uk/proddet ... od=fts0792

    Thanks

    EDIT: Do these go above or below the stem???

    They can go above or below depending on the stem height you are aiming for.

    Most people however have them below as having them above is useless as you can simply cut the steerer tube to size and loose the spacer above. Also its more aesthetically pleasing with spacers below.

    Make sure you get the correct spacers for your steerer tube size.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Vivid
    but cutting the steerer too short can mean another stem change could be a problem.
    I would not be cutting a factory fitted fork steerer. as it will lead to future issues.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • kurth
    kurth Posts: 57
    I am hopefully going to replace the forks as soon as I know what to get,theyre RST Gila T8 100mm things,but they're rubbish,even if I ride off a kerb.the forks appear to 'drop' and thud,theyre crap.I'm not sure what forks I can get though that will fit my mtb

    EDIT: don't want to spend alot on forks though