HELP - Cannot set gears ???

bilabonic

Hi

For some reason i am unable to set gears on my bike, it was purchased seconhand so do not know if it is due to wear, it sounds like a bag of nails when spinning...

I have the bike on a stand and can rotate freeley, have all Ultegra groupset and found loads of guides on youtube and seems straightforward but...

Even with rear cable der released, and screw limiters adjusted it seems still seems all loose/jumpy/noisey.

Whenever i reconnect the cable the cable with even the slightest of tension on the smallest sprocket it gets even worse.

If i apply tension so the gears work it is skipping/rattling...

Is my gear all shot, could a LBS check this ?

Cheers

airborne_warrior

To be honest mate, without actually looking at your bike it will be hard to determine exactly what the problem is. Your best bet is to take it to your LBS and ask them to determine the problem. They should do this free of charge though will obviously charge you for any work carried out.

bilabonic

Strange as seems simple to setup, i followed instructions and set limjit screws, the one for the smallest cog was out so adjusted it, even whilst bike spinning.

As soon as i connect the cable (all checked) it jumps gears/noisey with slightest tension.

If i apply tension at all if shifts up to largest but then does not return to smallest cog and sounds awfull in all of them...

alfablue

Doesn't explain the noise but rear mechs failing to return to the smallest sprocket is usually down to cable issues, gunked up or frayed. Does the cable slide smoothly in the outer when disconnected from mech? It is usually the last bit of outer before the rear mech that causes the problem.

bilabonic

Will check it now and get back, it just sounds rough even when i am operating the derailer by hand, it sounds terrible in all postions..

Have put a post in Gear/know section for to see if anyone knows of a lbs or can help me in port talbot/swansea area.

Worth a shot.

Cheers

airborne_warrior

Agreed. Definately sounds like a cable issue if it's not returning down the cassette. A fouled cable will work under tension but release the tension to go down a gear and it could stick.

bilabonic

Just checkked cable and seems free in all outer sheathing and all looks like new ?

What i did notice is that when i have the cable end in my hand under tension and fully extended for smallest cog, when i activate the dura ace lever to change there is no movement on the cable until the 3rd click ?(which is slight)

Only on the fourth click there is noticeable movement all the way upto 9th (10 speed) cassette.

This is true when cahnging other way the last three do not move/extend the cable when i am tugging on it as the derailer would ??

alfablue

This sounds like the nipple is not properly seated in the sti lever. So this means 2 or 3 clicks occur before the nipple engages.

Loosen the brake (quick release lever on the caliper) so that you can pull the lever down to expose the inside of the lever, is the nipple firmly in the hole? [EDIT: make sure you have the lever set for smallest sprocket, i.e. keep clicking inner lever till it clicks no more].

Also, the cable outer may not be fully seated where it goes into the STI. You need to keep tension on the cable after it is properly seated until you have secured it to the mech as they have a tendency to creep out of the seating between setting it and securing the mech.

To set the mech, have it on the smallest sprocket and STI set to smallest sprocket, then use pliers (carefully) to pull the cable tight while securing. Then it will need just minor turns to the adjuster to set it up perfectly.

alfablue

Photos to help you:



close up:

markos1963

You are all making the assumption that every thing is set up right ie is the wheel shimmed properly not with the axle wound too far left or right? Is the hanger straight?Is the derailleur undamaged? Any combination of these could give misleading results to correctly adjusted components.