What's the difference between expensive and cheap V-brakes?

Jamey
Jamey Posts: 2,152
edited February 2009 in MTB workshop & tech
I don't ride a Mountain Bike, I've got a CX bike that I use for commuting but it's got V-brakes and I understand those are more common on MTBs than road bikes so I thought it might be better to ask these questions here.

I've just had one of the brake arms seize up (barrel can't be turned, to the point where you bend the pin if you try) after only five months of owning the bike.

I'm pretty good at keeping the important stuff cleaned and lubed so I'm wondering whether V-brake arms are the sort of thing you should expect to be replacing twice a year or whether I did something wrong... Or whether more expensive brakes keep the dirt out better, so here are my questions...

1) Are cheap V-brakes (like the ones that came on my bike) notorious for seizing?

2) Do more expensive brake arms do a better job of keeping the dirt out?

3) How often do you expect to replace brake arms?

4) Is the parallel push thing worth the money (£160 for both sets of arms, from what I can tell)?

5) If you wanted a good, reliable set of V-brakes for an all-weather commuting bike, which ones would you buy?

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    1 no.
    2 no
    3 not often
    4 seems a lot and it keeps the pad angle constant but more moving parts.
    5 XT or an Avid arch rival.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Jamey
    Jamey Posts: 2,152
    Another question - I notice that a lot of the better V-brakes seem to be set up differently for the front and rear.

    What's the difference?

    The bog-standard brakes I've got are interchangeable so I'm confused as to what could be changed to optimise them for front/rear use.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    front and rear should be just the same.

    as in a pair of V brakes can be fitted to the front or the rear.

    the only difference is the shoes will need swapping to the other arm.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Jamey
    Jamey Posts: 2,152
    Heh, is that all? Amazed they go to the trouble of selling them as two different shop items.

    Cheers.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    well the cable is longer. :wink:
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Jamey
    Jamey Posts: 2,152
    Right... Avid Single Digit 5 (£14) or Shimano XT (£19)?

    Which one would you guys choose?
  • you cant go far wrong with shimano, they have their reputation for reliability for a reason.

    one thing though, you said

    "I don't ride a Mountain Bike, I've got a CX bike that I use for commuting but it's got V-brakes and I understand those are more common on MTBs than road bikes so I thought it might be better to ask these questions here."

    i know many cheap mtb's have v-brakes, but a lot have discs, even the cheaper end are fitting cable discs. why do you say v-brakes are more common on mtb's? all road bikes have v-brakes, or drum brakes etcs, but surely the best place to find out about v-brakes is the road forum.... thats what i thought anyway.
  • Jamey
    Jamey Posts: 2,152
    Most road bike have cantis, from what I've seen.

    In most online stores the V-brakes are usaully found in the "MTB brakes - rim" section of the menu, apart from a few shops (like SJS) that segregate brakes properly by type.

    So you reckon Shimano XT over Avid Single Digit 5, then? Everyone else agree?
  • MrChuck
    MrChuck Posts: 1,663
    Don't think many bikes at all have cantis now. V brakes don't (on the whole) go with drop bars so it's basically hybrids and MTBs that tend to have them.
  • Jamey wrote:
    ...I've just had one of the brake arms seize up (barrel can't be turned, to the point where you bend the pin if you try) after only five months of owning the bike.

    Oh no! I hope the consecutive days without problems counter isn't going to be reset to zero.
  • Jamey
    Jamey Posts: 2,152
    Oh no! I hope the consecutive days without problems counter isn't going to be reset to zero.

    I've got just enough movement in the brake arm for it to be usable but it needs replacing ASAP. But I won't be resetting the tally, you'll be pleased to hear :)
    MrChuck wrote:
    Don't think many bikes at all have cantis now. V brakes don't (on the whole) go with drop bars so it's basically hybrids and MTBs that tend to have them.

    Well regardless of what type of brakes go with what types of bikes, mine definitely had V-brakes and I definitely would like advice on new ones. If a mod wants to make a judgement call on which of Bikeradar's many technical forums is most likely to get me the best responses and then move this thread there, that's fine by me.
  • i would go with the shimano.

    theyre excellent value for money and almost every bike shop in the world will stock replacement or compatible parts for them.
  • There really isn't much between the plain arms (as in ones without fancy linkages) I've got single digit 7 single digit 5 and some OEM scott ones. All the arms perfome the same. The avids are much nicer to work with and don't seize as much and seem better made.

    I've used shimano ones in the past and tbh I much prefer the avids! (Just to be different to everyone else)

    Also are you using drop levers? I assume so because it's a cx bike. You might need noodles with barrel adjusters and/or a travel adjuster to run them with drop brakes.

    If you find you need barrel adjusters then I'd fit a pair of cane creek cx levers, they have built in barrel adjusters and work as a nice counterpoint to the drop levers. Basically, if you set the pads up really close, you get really grabby brakes on the hoods, but still have loads of modulation when on the tops.
  • Jamey
    Jamey Posts: 2,152
    Yeah, the levers are Shimano Tiagra STis, I've got noodles with built-in barrel adjusters but I don't have any travel (cable pull) adjusters because I just keep the wheels very true and have the pads very close to the rim. I do like my brakes to bite straight away.

    So you prefer the Avid ones, eh? I'm interested in your point about seizing because that's the thing I've experienced most, both on my current CX bike and on my previous hybrid, so that's the thing I want to eliminate and if Avid do that better than Shimano then I'm game.

    I notice their Ultimate brakes have a sealed cartridge bearing on which they rotate, which sounds good but at £80 per brake (ie pair of arms) I think that might be a little too pricey for me right now.

    I've seen other people saying that the lower-end Avid Single Digit brakes are actually better because they weigh more and are more robust. Have you found this to be true?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    To stop them seizing is just a case of stripping and servicing every so often,. None of mine have ever siezed and I have rode some atrocious conditions for many years on the same Vs.

    I use very old LX and DX cantis with eagle claw pads, and Avid Arch Rivals with Rim Wrangler pads.

    The former I find better. I'd just get cheap Avids or Shimano, good pads, and keep them serviced.
  • Jamey
    Jamey Posts: 2,152
    Is it possible to strip down a V-brake arm? Is there a guide online?

    I ask because all the other stuff (removing it from the bike every few weeks, cleaning it, lubing it, etc) is stuff I already do and yet it's seized up after a few months of use.
  • I wouldn't know, I've only used the 5's and 7's.

    The 7's are very nice, very well made and a pleasure to set up. Feel wise one are on my ss roadie and one are on my ss xc bike so there isn't a realy comparison seeing as it's 7's with 7 levers and the 5's with drop levers+cx levers.

    If I were you i'd get the avids, get the avid noodles (they actually keep the rubber seal on the end quite well) and fit some cx levers. It really is a delightful setup to use.
  • Jamey
    Jamey Posts: 2,152
    I've already got CX levers, albeit not ones with a built-in barrel adjuster, so I'd prefer to keep my existing noodles otherwise I'll be completely without barrel adjusters for the brakes unless I change the CX levers to the ones you mention and I CBA to swap them over just for that. I can live with the noodle not retaining that rubber sleeve very well at the moment.

    Think I'll get Single Digit 5s. Seems to be the best compromise between cost and quality.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    just to clear things up.
    as we are mentioning brakes with names that could cause confusion

    V brakes (linear pull brakes).
    xtr-vbrake.gif

    Cantilever brakes.
    yokewide.gif


    and then the road brake caliper.
    shim%20ultegra%20caliper.jpg

    and the MTB dics brake caliper i wont show a picture.

    Jamey i like the shimano V's but the Avid levers.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Jamey
    Jamey Posts: 2,152
    Well the Avid Single Digit 5s arrived today and I never thought I'd be saying this about a brake arm but the build quality is outstanding. I've not fitted them yet but something tells me they're gonna work out just fine. Really impressed.