The Lucky 7 most important features of commuting bike

wantaway
wantaway Posts: 96
edited March 2009 in Commuting chat
As I am struggling to find a way to search through fromer posts on the Forum (and being new and eager) I am going to ask a question I know must have been asked before.

My employer (in Manchester) has just introduced the cyclescheme. I am keen to buy a bike to get to work (about 12k each way, every day). I am even more keen having wasted an hour on a broken down train earlier.

As a fromer rural mountain biker, my heart wants a big chunky bugger of a bike in order to feel safe, however I wonder if this is the same feeling that drives people to buy pointless 4x4 tanks round town. Is this waht I need for an urban ride?

I have a budget of up to about £600 and I have looked at hybrids (such as the trek 7.5) but they just seem boring as they do a lok of things ok, but nothing very well. I like the look of the more rugged hybrids (Specialized crosstrail, some bikes by Obrea) but in these cases would I just be better off buying a true moutain bike? I have developed a soft spot for the Giant FCR series. They seem to provide a decent ride but with flat handle bars.

Basically I need to feel safe (and persuade my wife that I am not about to kill myself in order to avoid the train) I want a bike that allows me get to a speed where I canflow with the traffic but is not going to buckle or break should I encounter a pothole.

What I need from you, my fellow regular riders is not so much actual names of potential bikes, but what an urban communting bike needs to be able to do and cope with. What is actually important? (carbon forks? tyres, wheel size, brakes etc). I can then pick a bike which seems to address these issues depending on what local bike shops have.

Sorry if this is the 1000th time this question has been asked,

oh and hello to one and all.
«13

Comments

  • linsen
    linsen Posts: 1,959
    I think safety has more to do with your skills than the bike you are on, personally.

    I have three bikes all very different and I feel very safe on all of them. I commute on a road bike (because it is a long journey)

    You could consider a cyclocross bike I suppose but I guess most people here will tell you that if you are going to be solely on roads, get a road bike (clue's in the name :wink: )

    They are light, responsive and quite compact, which is good for urban cycling
    Emerging from under a big black cloud. All help welcome
  • Get a steel singlespeed road bike with v brakes and a carbon fork

    Fit cyclocross levers

    Fit a comfy saddle

    fit fat bar tape

    bulletproof tyres

    Fit a massive gearing

    Clipless pedals

    enjoy.











    It is literally that simple. The absence of gears will make you fitter, particularly if it's hilly and there is basically nothing to go wrong.

    I'd look at a 135mm pompino, halo aerogage wheels, drop bars, comfy saddle and avid single digit v-brakes.
  • Welcome wantaway!

    Well congratulations on hitting the nail so precisely on the head when it comes to hybrids, it makes it much easier to cross them off the list for you!

    Your suspicions regarding mountain bikes are also correct... they're slower and less effective on the road than...............

    A road bike!

    Now, I can't say I agree that you should get a single speed if you're starting out and are used to the multi-geared world of the MTB.

    A cross bike is a good idea, if you want to take it off-road which as an MTB-er you may. However, if you're purely on the road, then a proper road bike is best.

    There's a common misconception that road bikes are delicate flowers that will break if you look to the wrong side. This is total rubbish, they are actually pretty damn durable. Also, people think that drop bars will be uncomfortable while the opposite is true - you have many more options for hand and wrist positions.

    I would say the following 7 features:

    1. drop bars
    2. a good fit - worth perhaps getting fitted at a bike shop
    3. decent tyres
    4. good brake pads - coming from an MTB the braking on a roadie will not be as good
    5. a good saddle - you may need to try a few
    6. a solid set of wheels - ask the shop and then ask again here - they'd be the thing to go on a pothole.
    7. That you like it! No point buying a bike you don't like to satisfy some other condition.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    Welcome wantaway I think you might be being a little ambitious doing 12,000 miles each way. Oh! sorry you meant European kilometres....

    I have nothing to add ;)
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • The main advantage of a single speed / fixed is the low running costs especially if you aren't mechanically minded. Over the course of a year I reckon I spent c£300 keeping my geared commuter on the road (I accept that I could have reduced this by specifying cheaper componenets). Once that bike was written off by a kindly black cab I had no hesitation in going SS and so far I have spent £8.00 in 8 months so at this rate the bike will have paid for its self in two years. I did loads of research on what to get and ended up with a Pearson Touche which have just gone up to £599. Better to spend a bit more on some decent wheels (Halo Aerorage are pretty sturdy and roll well) but aside from that the standard spec is fine. You can get these through cyclescheme btw. Good luck.
  • il_principe
    il_principe Posts: 9,155
    The main advantage of a single speed / fixed is the low running costs especially if you aren't mechanically minded. Over the course of a year I reckon I spent c£300 keeping my geared commuter on the road (I accept that I could have reduced this by specifying cheaper components). Once that bike was written off by a kindly black cab I had no hesitation in going SS and so far I have spent £8.00 in 8 months so at this rate the bike will have paid for its self in two years. I did loads of research on what to get and ended up with a Pearson Touche

    +1 top bike

    Better to spend a bit more on some decent wheels (Halo Aerorage are pretty sturdy and roll well) but aside from that the standard spec is fine. You can get these through cyclescheme btw. Good luck.[/quote]

    +1

    Also Pearson will spec a bike to your demands - so wheels, bars, brakes, saddle etc etc.

    Don't get an MTB for commuting, unless your commute involves mountains...
  • even a MTB can be shunted off line by a nasty pothole, while road bikes are not as robust or as stable they are by no means fragile flighty beasts either.

    if your coming from MTB's the one big shocker is brakes, while the phyical brakes aren't that bad there is only so much traction one can get from 23mm tires.

    have a test ride on a road bike while it will be different narrow bars etc, for road use they really do make a lot of sence the economy of movement is fantastic.
  • bigmat
    bigmat Posts: 5,134
    Just to redress the balance a little, I commute on an MTB - no suspension and slick tyres, so the difference to a road bike mainly comes down to weight, size of wheels and bars. I prefer flat bars through traffic - more upright so easier to see around. Also like being on something a bit sturdier - I can jump up and down kerbs, go offroad, plough through potholes etc. Brakes are miles better as well, especially in the wet. My commute is only 7 miles and pretty flat, maybe if it was a bit longer I'd go skinny wheels but in my experience what I've got is perfect for the job. Very seldom get overtaken by roadies, and fixed / single speed are definitely slower - as soon as you hit a stretch where you can build up some speed (high gear) or a hill (low gear) you can eat them for breakfast even on an MTB.
  • il_principe
    il_principe Posts: 9,155
    MatHammond wrote:
    Very seldom get overtaken by roadies, and fixed / single speed are definitely slower - as soon as you hit a stretch where you can build up some speed (high gear) or a hill (low gear) you can eat them for breakfast even on an MTB.[/quote]

    I smell a challenge. I've never been scalped by an MTB on my SS. Actually I've never been scalped by an MTB :shock: the shame would kill me! :lol:
  • It will depend a little on what roads you go down during your commute, and if you will want to use it for more than just the ride to work (which is likely once you get back on a bike).

    If it is a "one-bike-fits-all" scenrio then I would second linsen with a cyclocross bike, and if you want to go down the single speed route then the Specialized Tricross Singlecross would also fit the bill leaving plenty of dosh for guards/helmet/waterproofs.

    but be warned...if you get an out and out road racer then your 12km ride will soon turn into something much longer ;)
    SC61.10a: FCN 3, with clip-on guards for winter
    Uncle John: FCN ?? knobblies, or 'fat' slicks n guards

    If you haven't tried these things, you should.
    These things are fun, and fun is good.
  • MatHammond wrote:
    Very seldom get overtaken by roadies, and fixed / single speed are definitely slower - as soon as you hit a stretch where you can build up some speed (high gear) or a hill (low gear) you can eat them for breakfast even on an MTB.[/quote]

    I smell a challenge. I've never been scalped by an MTB on my SS. Actually I've never been scalped by an MTB :shock: the shame would kill me! :lol:

    some quite nice looking SS don't exackly bomb along i've pottered past them while on the shopper/town bike, basket etc.....and on that bike i'd hardly be zipping along...
  • bigmat
    bigmat Posts: 5,134
    I guess it all comes down to gearing, and how stop-start the ride is. I'm pretty sure gears work out faster even on a central London commute, although I can see the logic of the maintenance argument.

    My commuter is an MTB in name only really - more like a hybrid now but with 26" wheels. Weighs a tonne but it flies once you get some momentum on the flat!
  • I regulaly scalp people on 23mm tyres whilst riding my mtbs. I even got a guy on an old roadie once whilst riding my silly little bike (see sig) 8)

    As for comments about kerb hopping/jumping. You can do it on a road bike, i regularly jump the 50cm wide kerbed partition on st. giles in oxford whilst riding my road bike. It is just a little harder due to being stretched out.
  • biondino
    biondino Posts: 5,990
    I prefer flat bars through traffic - more upright so easier to see around

    I'm not sure this is true - I just did a v scientific test (honest) and it's just as easy to see around using drop handlebars! I guess you might be an inch or two lower down but I literally can't think when this might make a difference (although it's why I'd never ride a recumbent on the road).

    Also, drops have the "flat" option - on the tops of the bars. You can even fit extra brakes there.
  • biondino wrote:
    I prefer flat bars through traffic - more upright so easier to see around

    I'm not sure this is true - I just did a v scientific test (honest) and it's just as easy to see around using drop handlebars! I guess you might be an inch or two lower down but I literally can't think when this might make a difference (although it's why I'd never ride a recumbent on the road).

    Also, drops have the "flat" option - on the tops of the bars. You can even fit extra brakes there.

    on the big town bike which has a fairly upright postion it's much easier to see behind, and you get the advantage of more height over cars, this said it's not a big one though it's there riding on the tops or hoods on dropbars tends to be a more head down position.
  • many thanks for all your suggestions. I am a little clearer on what I need to be looking for, especially with asking if the bike shop will alter the standard spec to better suit my needs.

    I like the idea of gears though. is that a man-thing? Can I be cured (ot the love of gears rather than of being a man) - Having said that the tricross is a mighty fine looking bike.
  • FWIW the Pearson adds roughly 1 minute to the time it takes me to do a lap of Richmond Park on my road bike (20 v 21 ish), and makes no discernible difference on my 1 hour, 15 mile commute into the City.
  • biondino
    biondino Posts: 5,990
    Gears are wonderful, clever, helpful things and just because some people have a bizarre idea that forsaking them somehow makes you a better person it doesn't mean you need to listen to such loons :) The Tricross does also come in geared form, remember.
  • I have to say that unless you're in London or perhaps East Anglia, or some other very flat place, gears are a good idea.
  • il_principe
    il_principe Posts: 9,155
    I have to say that if you are unable to MTFU then gears are a good idea.
  • AndyManc
    AndyManc Posts: 1,393
    wantaway wrote:
    many thanks for all your suggestions. I am a little clearer on what I need to be looking for, especially with asking if the bike shop will alter the standard spec to better suit my needs.

    I like the idea of gears though. is that a man-thing? Can I be cured (ot the love of gears rather than of being a man) - Having said that the tricross is a mighty fine looking bike.

    wantaway , in the end it's down to you.

    If most of your riding is under 15miles I would stick to mtb's with slicks, I'm sure you are aware of the road conditions in Manchester , as well as the mentality of the 'drivers' on it and having a chunky bike that will go anywhere and get you out of trouble is always useful.

    Just a tip for ya, check out Bicycle Doctor in Rusholme (Dickenson Rd), I bought my last bike there (Trek Hybrid) and it's where I will be buying my next from ..... a Trek Hardtail, the shop is a workers co-op , and they know their stuff.



    .
    Specialized Hardrock Pro/Trek FX 7.3 Hybrid/Specialized Enduro/Specialized Tri-Cross Sport
    URBAN_MANC.png
  • My top tip is strong wheels and chunky tyres to cope with the potholes and speed bumps. Some people seem to cope just fine with fancy spoke patterns and 23mm tyres - but I reckon they're just skinny masochists. :)

    Other than that, some sort of luggage carrying option for all the detritus of your commute(my current obsession is the perfect luggage solution). Some people like rucksacks but, if not, then the world of racks, panniers or possibly saddle bags awaits.

    Mudguards to keep the rain off you and stop the "I've just pooed all the way up my own back" look.

    Get something reasonably sturdy - you don't want to be forever replacing components and tuning a flightly Ferrari with two-wheels. I'm not saying a (two-wheeled) Land Rover is necessary - a full-sus MTB on a commute is a little excessive in a large city. There's a lot of choice in between.

    Oh, and gears. Definitely gears. (See point re 23mm tyres.) And now I'm off to MTFU on the way home. Climbing Camberwell Grove with the chain on one of the larger cassette cogs. :oops: Perhaps I'll MTFU tomorrow.
    Never be tempted to race against a Barclays Cycle Hire bike. If you do, there are only two outcomes. Of these, by far the better is that you now have the scalp of a Boris Bike.
  • And when I said "mudguards to keep the rain off you", I now see how daft that might sound. :?

    Ahem, "mudguards to reduce the amount of road spray kicked up on to you by your own wheels ..."
    Never be tempted to race against a Barclays Cycle Hire bike. If you do, there are only two outcomes. Of these, by far the better is that you now have the scalp of a Boris Bike.
  • I used to do my 9 mile commute on a MTB (front susp, but slick tyres and spd pedals). Since getting my road bike, my MTB has been purely for messin about with the kids.

    The road bike is much easier over distance & fits through narrower gaps. I don't understand the flat bar argument because I'm holding onto the brake hoods a lot of the time or the top of the bars anyway :? A hybrid will get you fully upright but why would you want to be??

    Anyway, LiTs recommendations are spot on, but you might also want to think about fitting of mud guards and/or panniers. And of course whether to use spd MTB shoes and pedals or SPD SL roadies. The MTB format seems popular among road bike commuters and makes a lot of sense.

    I've just bought sealed cablesand although I've only had them fitted for a week, it feels like I've upgraded the groupset. The gear changes are smoother than ever and the cables should be maintenance free....should be.....
    Time you've enjoyed wasting, hasn't been wasted

    Bianchi L'Una, Bianchi 928 C2C 105, Dahon MU SL
  • of course I could just combine all your suggestions into a single bike...and get myself a hybrid...

    However whilst the combination fo all the suggestions would mean a mix, most people still seem to think that road or MTB are the way to go (rather than something marketed as an urban bike) - I think my main problem is that I want a mountain bike and a road bike.

    Having said that, I am now more inclined to consider a road bike (with a falt bar...best to to take these things one step at a time). I am also grateful for the tip on The Bicycle Doctor. I'll nip up there to take a look tomorrow hopefully.

    Bianchi Camaleonte may be an option, Marin Toscana if I can find a few extra pennies for the monthly repayments. MArin Fairfax? the tricross still looks a fine machine.

    my god, if it takes me this long to decide on the bike, lord knows how long it will take me to decide on the rest of the gear you can get with the cyclescheme. deciding what colour helmet will be a tough ask.
  • I have to say that if you are unable to MTFU then gears are a good idea.
    Surely it is the people who are afraid of gears because they are a bit mechanical and complex who need to MTFU? Us real men love things you have to fiddle and tinker with and if they go wrong - all the better: something to fix :D The only people I know who like things that are simple and look pretty over things that are practical but ungly tend to be women...
    Pain is only weakness leaving the body
  • [I do 30 miles per day in winter and 46 in summer. I do the long summer commute on my road bike, but it is costly and things wear out.
    I would buy an Edinburgh courier again.
    http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLq ... OrderID=-1
    1) It has flat bars – get bar ends, good vis
    2) 8 speeds only – I have steep hills but if not I’d go for single speed or fixed.
    3) And tough wheels although I have worn out one rim in 5k miles.
    4) It is an MTB with slick tyres – get bullet proof tyres - I find Schwalbe city jet good enough – never had a puncture.
    5) Cheap is good – I got mine for less than £200 – so you don’t worry about it. They are often reduced in sales – old stock etc so you don’t have to pay £292
    6) I’d always fit a rack for panniers – although I use a rucksack on my road bike. I fitted full mudguards last year as an experiment and really like having them
    7) Mine has rim brakes but I’d get discs – especially as I also tow a trailer with it.

    I will replace the entire drive train in the next few weeks, once the snow and salt are away. This will cost about £40, and should last through to next year with running a couple of chains. A single speed would last much longer. Sometimes I think I should upgrade to a crosser but then I would start to worry about it.
  • don_don
    don_don Posts: 1,007
    biondino wrote:
    Gears are wonderful, clever, helpful things and just because some people have a bizarre idea that forsaking them somehow makes you a better person it doesn't mean you need to listen to such loons :) The Tricross does also come in geared form, remember.

    BURN THE HERETIC, BURN HIM!!!

    Keep reading wantaway, it'll all be clear soon enough :lol:
  • don_don
    don_don Posts: 1,007
    I have to say that unless you're in London or perhaps East Anglia, or some other very flat place, gears are a good idea.

    Come on LiT, the world is flat, everyone knows that :roll:

    Gears are a clever marketing ploy

    :wink:
  • I have to say that if you are unable to MTFU then gears are a good idea.

    :lol::lol:

    I would expect nothing less from you, Jash!