Cycling in Croatia

Rhods

Hi

My girlfriend and I are thinking of going to Croatia in September, after getting hooked on cycling following a tour of Provence last summer.

I was just wondering whether anyone had any experience of cycling there. Our current intention is to base ourselves in Split and maybe one other place on the Dalmatian coast and cycle from there (rather than go from one campsite to another like we did in France).

Any advice/experience would be appreciated.

Also, what are the roads like - i.e. what tyres and kit should I be looking at?

Thanks.

barry_kellett99

I was in Makarska and Dubrovnik for 2 weeks honeymoon last August/september.

All i would say is - Its really hot.

I am Irish like, and everyone knows we dont take the sun well! But I normally like a bit of heat and sun but had to get up at 6am to go for a run as it was too hot by 8 or 9

I definitely couldnt cycle in it comfortably.

Its a little cooler further inland up at the north of the country.

We went to split one day, it was so hot i thought i was going to die. I spent hours in the caves under the palace - it was the first cool place I'd found


Other than that, it is a superb country. Definitely worth a visit, i would go back any time,

operandi

cycled from Dubrovnik to Zadar on the coast road at end of September. The scenery is stunning. The road is two lanes and the traffic can be scarry from time to time.
In late September the touist season is winding down so there is no problem with accomodation - no need to book except perhaps the first night. It is still hot and the traffic is not as bad (although the consideration for cyclist is pretty low).
Moving from place to place is the best - I do not see the attraction of being based in Split. One day would be fine two days OK - three days and you would questions your sanity. It is a nighmare to get out of and therefore you could spend two hours each day in heavy traffic before you hit any quiet cycling. Non of the big cities are any good to base your stay for a cycling holiday. Some of the smaller seaside towns and villages would be better especially if they have a route into the interland behind the coast.
Cycling south to north gets you the prevailing wind.
The beer is local cheap and good - the local wine is cheap and good - the food (except the main centres is cheap and good) - as you would expect fish is excellent and the pasta is good. They are not in the euro zone so this helps.

There are some hills but the views are stunning and you are never to far away from an ice cream stop.

Take a good flashing back light and use it even in daytime.
The people are stoic but friendly underneath and can be described as a handsome nation.

The roads are OK and I had a ordinary road bike with 25mm tyres.

Well worth the trip

Rhods

Thanks guys, that's great.

Operandi - thanks for the info on Split and the fact that the cities aren't a great place to base yourself - will bear that in mind and try to figure out a route. Only thing is - I'm trying to travel light and thought that basing in one place might be easier than carrying everything around.

If you don't mind me asing, how long did it take you to go from Dubrovnik to Zadar and what distances were you cycling each day?

Thanks all again.

mercsport

My recollections of a 'passing through Croatia' ride from the border with Hungary with the Danube around Mohacs to Zagreb; Karlovac ; Senj and finally - relief ! - Zadar and the ferry to Ancona and the sweet mercies of Italian civilisation .

Croation roads are good enough . The countryside is wonderful . Croatians are , in general , only slightly less dour than Hungarians .

My ride from Senj to Zadar was in 40+ degrees of heat . The coast road meandered from right on the water's edge to long hump bridging climbs . The distance between life saving Coca-Cola / ice cream stops at petrol places or cafes were - in the heat - enough to make me wish I was elsewhere with a cafe culture ( Italy for example ) .

Where the opposite Adriatic coast in Italy is one long sandy beach the Croatian coast is very rocky and where the road passes within feet of the water and the prospect of a cooling dip entices , you will probably cycle on as the prospect of shreding your feet on the rocks underfoot is high. Water carrying in that heat , no way around it , means drinking hot water . The first bit of beach - as we know it - sand - I came across was at my Croatian jourrney's end at Zadar . Wild camping was O.K . Lots of greenery and twiggery everywhere .

psmiffy

I have cycled Venice - Ancona – Split – Venice

Down the Italian coast there is plenty of beach (where you can find a gap between the commercial spieggia) and cafes – the Croatian side is sometimes barren and a long way between cafes but is beautiful – campsites are of a reasonable quality and easyish to find - can be quite hilly – one of only three places in Europe I have had to get off and push (too steep to get started again when heart rate subsided) - sometime I am going to go back when I am not on a schedule and doss around a little – good idea to keep a few camping receipts as the border guards were a little aggressive when I left about vagrancy/wild camping – can get a little windy no matter which direction you are travelling in

People tend to fall into two different camps either can’t do enough for you or seem to resent you being there at all – roads are generally good and on the couple of occasions I had to use B&B/Hotel (once due to wind being too strong to risk tent – never happened any where else) accommodation was easy to find, good quality and relatively cheap

operandi

I went for 6 days only cycles for 5 - did not get there early enough on the first day and wanted to see Dubrovnik. You would need to do about 50 miles a day for five days. Some days I did more some less. This also gives you enough time to do a bit of sightseeing.

The further south you go the more tourism there is and more places to stop. When I went the temparature was about 25C at the end of September.

There are some hills so the lighter you can travel the better. No idea about campsites as I stayed in modest hotels.

knedlicky

I’ve been to Croatia three times, on all occasions about September. I wasn’t cycling but driving, including the coast road 40 km either side of Rijeka in the north, and from Zadar to Podgora (S of Split) in the south. And I’m not sure I’d recommend the coast road as holiday riding.

West of Rijeka was quiet, and sections between the larger towns, Zadar, Sibenik, and Split at times too, but other stretches and other times were too busy for me to feel comfortable on a bike. The times between Zadar and Split when it was quiet were early morning and first half of the afternoon (lunch then siesta time, like you find in some other lands), and after 6 pm.

Many of the smaller roads inland are nice and quiet. However, although they too can be scenic, I wouldn’t choose them for the whole holiday, because then one forfeits the coastal scenery.

My choice of a cycling holiday in Croatia would be to island hop. I’ve driven on the islands and out of season they are then lovely and quiet (although unfortunately in some places - parts of Cres, Pag and Brac – stretches of road have been straightened and widened, losing the charm and inviting solitary cars to high speed).
I realise island hopping means not having a base but accommodation in private houses or hostels usually isn’t hard to find or expensive (£10-20 p.p) so one can skip taking the camping gear.

I did once work out a week-long leisurely bike route from Rijeka to S of Zadar, but unfortunately my intended trip never worked out.

BigJimmyB

Bring me back some Tomislav would you?
The best beer I've ever drunk.
Dubrovnik is also lovely, as is the surrounding area.
Enjoy

Rhods

Thanks everyone

knedlicky, thanks for that.

I've actually reconsidered a bit and thought that island hopping would be a good idea. Initial plans are to fly to Dubrovnik and spend some time there and the surrounding area. Then, cycle north and hop to Hvar and Brac and other islands. Then rejoin the mainalnd and head towards Split and Trogir. Thinking of doing it over about 10 days so that we have plenty of time everywhere. Reckon I can manage to travel light enough to take my road bike with a seatpost rack if we stay in b&b's etc.

Any improvements on this rough plan are welcomed!

Thanks