Improving braking?

GibboGT
GibboGT Posts: 287
edited February 2009 in Road beginners
I all, I have a Pearson Touche and am finding that the brakes don't fill me with complete confidence, especially at this wet time of year. Got a big hill down from my house and braking from 30MPH on a down slope before a hill just isn't doable whilst feeling safe.

Any good brake pads out there that would improve my situation?

Comments

  • ScottieP
    ScottieP Posts: 599
    Koolstop Salmon brake pads are supposed to be some of the best you can use in the wet. I've just got some from dotbike I think it was but haven't put them on my bike yet.

    I think there are plenty of places that sell them if you do some searching. They will wear a bit faster than "normal" pads - but you should stop better.

    ScottieP
    My cycling blog: http://girodilento.com/
  • GibboGT
    GibboGT Posts: 287
    Cheers, I shall take a look around for some.
  • dodgy
    dodgy Posts: 2,890
    I find road bike brakes require some fettling to keep them running in good order. If you haven't already, try the following:
    • Scrub your rims with soapy water (I use Fenwicks FS-1) after every few rides in the winter.
    • Inspect pads for shards of alloy and other foreign matter - dig them out with care.
    • Check for effective positioning of the pads against the rim. I loosen the pad bolts and hold the brakes on tight so the pads find a natural facing with the rim - then tighten up again. (I've never had to toe in brakes on my road bikes, you might be different)
    • Ensure that both pads strike the wheel at the same time, they should 'clap' the rim almost simulataneously. If they don't, there is usually a tiny grub screw that you can fine tune the 'clapping'. This can make a massive difference, if your pads are not hitting at the same time, you'll find the rim will be actually pushed to one side when braking.
    • Don't have the brake cables adjusted so tight that you can't grab a handful of brake, there should still be some travel at the levers

    Apologies if you've ruled that lot out, but it might be useful for someone else.

    I personally use Salmon koolstop pads, they don't seem to be quite so demanding of perfect pad allignment, but I find that standard Shimano are OK if everything is perfect.

    Dave.
  • Harp
    Harp Posts: 79
    dodgy wrote:
    I find road bike brakes require some fettling to keep them running in good order. If you haven't already, try the following:
    • Scrub your rims with soapy water (I use Fenwicks FS-1) after every few rides in the winter.
    • Inspect pads for shards of alloy and other foreign matter - dig them out with care.
    • Check for effective positioning of the pads against the rim. I loosen the pad bolts and hold the brakes on tight so the pads find a natural facing with the rim - then tighten up again. (I've never had to toe in brakes on my road bikes, you might be different)
    • Ensure that both pads strike the wheel at the same time, they should 'clap' the rim almost simulataneously. If they don't, there is usually a tiny grub screw that you can fine tune the 'clapping'. This can make a massive difference, if your pads are not hitting at the same time, you'll find the rim will be actually pushed to one side when braking.
    • Don't have the brake cables adjusted so tight that you can't grab a handful of brake, there should still be some travel at the levers

    Apologies if you've ruled that lot out, but it might be useful for someone else.

    I personally use Salmon koolstop pads, they don't seem to be quite so demanding of perfect pad allignment, but I find that standard Shimano are OK if everything is perfect.

    Dave.

    A good guide there Dave, thanks.
  • GibboGT
    GibboGT Posts: 287
    Thanks a lot for that Dave. Not actually gone through it all with that much detail, should really check everything.
  • dodgy
    dodgy Posts: 2,890
    Pleasure mate :)
  • nickwill
    nickwill Posts: 2,735
    I'll second Koolstop pads. I tend to use the dual compound ones which last a bit longer. I think they are the cheapest effective upgrade that you can make to a bike!
  • GibboGT
    GibboGT Posts: 287
    Wow this is stupidly confusing.

    On the touche I think i've got dura-ace or some equivalent/copy from the looks of them. Looking on wiggle I don't think I can get the dual compound only the salmon. Will give them a go methinks.

    Cheers folks.
  • nickwill
    nickwill Posts: 2,735
    GibboGT wrote:
    Wow this is stupidly confusing.

    On the touche I think i've got dura-ace or some equivalent/copy from the looks of them. Looking on wiggle I don't think I can get the dual compound only the salmon. Will give them a go methinks.

    Cheers folks.
    Total Cycling have the Dual Compound.
    http://www.totalcycling.com/index.php/p ... IMANO.html

    Just click on the colours button where they list the Shimano pads.
  • GibboGT
    GibboGT Posts: 287
    Cheers!
  • dombo6
    dombo6 Posts: 582
    Second the Salmons. Good in the wet and soft too so they don't chew up your rims.
  • Gav888
    Gav888 Posts: 946
    Is there much difference in changing brake pads, mine seem cheapy hard ones which are standard fit on my bike?
    Cycling never gets any easier, you just go faster - Greg LeMond
  • When I got my first road bike a few years ago the brake pads that came with the bike brand new were absolutely appalling. This combined with the new riding position and initial sore hands, until I go used to STI levers, made me think I had made a serious error buying a road bike. Bear in mind the brakes were cheap no namers.
    After a week I did some research and changed the pads to KS Salmon and made some adjustments to the brake position. The performance increase was considerable and I felt much more confident riding the bike. I still have the old pads in a box somewhere, but they should really be in the rubbish bin.
    I used to have cheap hard pads on my MTB. They lasted for ages, but the braking performance was appalling in the wet and within no time the rims were concave and I had to change the wheels. This cost me much more than replacing soft compound pads more often.
  • GibboGT
    GibboGT Posts: 287
    Went with the dual compound ones and they've finally turned up, just fitted them (and fixed my puncture :cry: ) the front ones are perfect, but the rear ones are at the wrong angle, the rear of the pad contacts the rim way before the rest of the pad and I can't find anyway to change the angle of the pad holder?
  • John C.
    John C. Posts: 2,113
    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/m/Cycle/7/Kool_Stop/

    I'm another Koolstop convert check the link above.
    http://www.ripon-loiterers.org.uk/

    Fail to prepare, prepare to fail
    Hills are just a matter of pace