Stem Issues
ModusOps
Posts: 12
Hello,
As a newcomer to Road cycling I am still trying to refine my seating position whilst on the bike.
All I feel that is left to do is maybe lower the handlebars by removing the spacers between the stem and the frame and lowering by about 2/3cms. When I do this there is an exposed element of the steering tube and I wonder whether there is anyway to remove the 'extra bit' when I have found the ideal position. does it saw off? am i meant to ride with the exposed bit still there?
Also, instead of removing the spacers I believe that I can can I flip my stem so that it angles down instead of up. Is there any reason why this would not be advisable?
btw the bike is Defy 2.5, and I currently refer to her as 'Daisy'.
apologies if my questions seem pretty basic!
Thanks
Modus Ops
As a newcomer to Road cycling I am still trying to refine my seating position whilst on the bike.
All I feel that is left to do is maybe lower the handlebars by removing the spacers between the stem and the frame and lowering by about 2/3cms. When I do this there is an exposed element of the steering tube and I wonder whether there is anyway to remove the 'extra bit' when I have found the ideal position. does it saw off? am i meant to ride with the exposed bit still there?
Also, instead of removing the spacers I believe that I can can I flip my stem so that it angles down instead of up. Is there any reason why this would not be advisable?
btw the bike is Defy 2.5, and I currently refer to her as 'Daisy'.
apologies if my questions seem pretty basic!
Thanks
Modus Ops
Nostaliga: It ain't what it used to be.
0
Comments
-
Yes, you can saw off the bit on top, but be careful when doing it. If you don't get the measurement correct you might have trouble getting everything tightened back up correctly. Might be worth asking a shop to do it as they'll have the kit to make sure the cut is straight and accurate. No reason why you couldn't leave it there, might be advisable to leave it for a while until you're certain you have the position right. Personally I cut it off as it looks better and I have some paranoia about landing on it in a crash.
You can flip the stem, no problem, and would be easier than having the forks cutPlanet X N2A
Trek Cobia 29er0 -
No probs about flipping the stem. Also, if you remove spacers from underneath the stem, just put put them on top.
Don't forget that the first bolt to tighten when you are re-assembling is the centre one on top of the stem - use this to set the bearings properly, then tighten the two bolts holding the stem to the forks then tighten the handlebars if you've flipped the stem.0 -
For the time being keep the spacers, just pop them above the stem until you're certain that you have the position right.
Remember to do up the topcap before you tighten the stem bolts.
When it is done, either use a punch to push the star fangled nut further down the steerer then re-cut it with a sharp hacksaw (measure several several times cut once!) You want about 5mm of stem/spacer above the steerer tube for pre-loading.
Make sure you keep the headset in order and the right way up.
Or get your lbs to do it.0 -
For the time being keep the spacers, just pop them above the stem until you're certain that you have the position right.
Remember to do up the topcap before you tighten the stem bolts.
When it is done, either use a punch to push the star fangled nut further down the steerer then re-cut it with a sharp hacksaw (measure several several times cut once!) You want about 5mm of stem/spacer above the steerer tube for pre-loading.
Make sure you keep the headset in order and the right way up.
Or get your lbs to do it.0 -
For the time being keep the spacers, just pop them above the stem until you're certain that you have the position right.
Remember to do up the topcap before you tighten the stem bolts.
When it is done, either use a punch to push the star fangled nut further down the steerer then re-cut it with a sharp hacksaw (measure several several times cut once!) You want about 5mm of stem/spacer above the steerer tube for pre-loading.
Make sure you keep the headset in order and the right way up.
Or get your lbs to do it.0 -
For the time being keep the spacers, just pop them above the stem until you're certain that you have the position right.
Remember to do up the topcap before you tighten the stem bolts.
When it is done, either use a punch to push the star fangled nut further down the steerer then re-cut it with a sharp hacksaw (measure several several times cut once!) You want about 5mm of stem/spacer above the steerer tube for pre-loading.
Make sure you keep the headset in order and the right way up.
Or get your lbs to do it.0 -
Ive been playing with my stem height and positioning on the bike for a few weeks now and i dropped the stem to the bottom and put the spacers above it. Having gone for a 12m ride to test it out, i ended up with neck and back ache, so its too low for now, so ive raised it a couple of spaces again to make it more comfy (being a newbie myself).
If I was you, have a play with the spacers by raising and lowering the stem, and try flipping it aswell to get something that feels comfy, have a few long runs on your fav positions and if you like one, stick with it for a few weeks to a month, if your still happy, pop in to a LBS to saw the top off, but only if your 100% sure you like the position as the last thing you want to do is spend out for some new forks....Cycling never gets any easier, you just go faster - Greg LeMond0 -
Gav888 wrote:i dropped the stem to the bottom and put the spacers above it. Having gone for a 12m ride to test it out, i ended up with neck and back ache
Only 12m before your neck and back started aching? I'd suggest you strengthen your neck muscles - it shouldn't start aching after a couple of seconds.0 -
redddraggon wrote:Gav888 wrote:i dropped the stem to the bottom and put the spacers above it. Having gone for a 12m ride to test it out, i ended up with neck and back ache
Only 12m before your neck and back started aching? I'd suggest you strengthen your neck muscles - it shouldn't start aching after a couple of seconds.
Thats 12 miles not miniutes in case you are wonder took me just under an hour to complete, ave about 12mph - not fit :shock:Cycling never gets any easier, you just go faster - Greg LeMond0 -
I read it as 12 meteres!!! hahahaNostaliga: It ain't what it used to be.0