How long does your chain last?

jimmcdonnell

Just wondering - on my old bikes (I was exclusively a mountain bike rider (on roads, surprise!) until a couple of years ago when common sense prevailed) with, typically, a 9-speed block and chain, triple chainring, I used to wear out chains very rarely, it seemed.

My riding is now as it was then, mostly day-to-day commutes in all weathers, with longer luggage-hauling tours in the summers. I'm a cleaning and maintenance nutcase, so everything gets cleaned and lubed (bike-specific lube, never WD-40 or 3-in-1) a couple of times a month minimum.

So - I bought a road bike for my daily commute. Since then it's done not much more than 500miles, but I think the chain is worn. I'm checking tomorrow, but all the signs are there; odd noises, skipping changing up under moderate load.

So what's your average chain life in miles? Do 10-speeds wear faster than 9- or 8- (narrower chain and all that)? My bike has Shimano 105 groupset.

Or am I just paranoid?

- Jim

redddraggon

jimmcdonnell wrote:

So - I bought a road bike for my daily commute. Since then it's done not much more than 500miles, but I think the chain is worn. I'm checking tomorrow, but all the signs are there; odd noises, skipping changing up under moderate load.

Sounds like cable stretch rather than a worn chain.

Smokin Joe

I changed my 10 speed KMC after 1750 miles when it became very slightly noisey. I think they last just as long as nine speed, the increased wear thing is a bit of a myth.

jimmcdonnell

redddraggon wrote:

Sounds like cable stretch rather than a worn chain.

I thought that too - been riding for 30 years, am not a newbie to maintenance or fault-finding, but I've tried to keep the cable adjusted correctly and just can't find a sweet spot where it consistently shifts cleanly. I can either have outer 5 cogs or inner 5 working fine, but depending on how I adjust cable tension, there's always some slack shifting somewhere.

I'm very puzzled by this; in my mind, a well adjusted and lubed drivetrain is practically silent. So far, silence eludes me.

- Jim

AlanW

10sp drive trains eat chains, I'm lucky if I can get more than 1000 miles per chain. :shock:

Doesn't seem to make much odds on the make of chain either. Normally I use the Ultegra chains, but have tried the top end Sram and KMC chains with little difference in the wear rate to be honest.

Also tried every different type of chain lube and again little to no difference in reducing the wear rate

And I am meticulous about keeping the chain lubed and the drive train clean. Furthermore, after every wet ride the chain is removed cleaned and re lubed.

Remember the good old days of five speed cassettes/blocks? you could keep the same cassette and chain for a year before it needed changing!

But I'm not complaining, as I much prefer the gear ratio options gained in having the 10 sp, I run a 12-23 cassette with a 39/52 on the front. Best ratio I have ridden for years.

On my Audax bike with a triple set up, I use the same cassette ration again, but a 28/39/52 on the front. Get up anything with that set up and have the beauty of a tight ratioed cassette on the rear, so no nasty 3 & 4 teeth jumps to upset your cadence.

SBezza

I had done 2,500 miles on my 105 groupset and chain before I changed the chain, and this was really only a precaution. I am not even that meticulous with the cleaning either, so I would be pretty upset if I couldn't get more than 500 to 1000 miles out of a chain.

careful

I use different chains on different bikes (no special reason- just what was best offer at the time). Have always got at least 2000 trouble free miles. One tip that I learned years ago is to have three chains for each bike. Number them 1 to 3 and run each for about 500 miles before changing to the next one. Then go back to number one and so on. In this way the cogs are wearing as the chain wears. This overcomes the need to replace the cogs when the chain is worn (a new chain will skip on a worn cog). It's a bit costly up front but pays in the long run.

ellieb

I obviously don't change my chains enough :shock: I only ever seem to renew them when I need a new cassette.

Slow1972

A new chain will only slip on a worn sprocket if you left it too long to swap your chain. If its skipping by the time you change it chances are you've left it too late. Chains are cheaper than cassettes so if you check your chain for wear by measuring the stretch (its the stretch in the chain which causes most of the wear in the sprockets - muck and 'grinding paste' will obviously help things along too of course) and replace the chain before it stretches too much I find you can replace your chain 3 times (say 3 - 4000 miles) before you need even need to think about a new cassette. Leave the chain too long and it'll be a new chain and cassette every time.

Park tools do a simple chain stretch measuring tool - you'll find that's what most bike shops use to decide if you need a new chain or not - takes about 20 seconds to check

crankycrank

If you own some measuring calipers try this site. http://home.jtan.com/~joe/bicycle/bicycle_chain.htm

hambones

Take any advice given on parts with caution - you get the impression many on here have shares in bike shops the speed they recommend change!

My Ultegra chain has done 7500 miles over 3 years in all weather and is fine - very little wear on cassette either. So for me changing these parts in one go is far cheaper than constantly changing the chain every 500-1000 miles.

John.T

I change my chain when it has 'streched' by 1%. Usually get 5000+ on summer bike, rather less on the winter one but cassettes usually go 3 chains.

dennisn

hambones wrote:

Take any advice given on parts with caution - you get the impression many on here have shares in bike shops the speed they recommend change!

My Ultegra chain has done 7500 miles over 3 years in all weather and is fine - very little wear on cassette either. So for me changing these parts in one go is far cheaper than constantly changing the chain every 500-1000 miles.

I think you may have something there(on both counts).
Seems like everyone always quotes the "conventional wisdom" of chain and cassette
changing, which is probably pushed by chain and cassette makers. They say it enough
and "bingo" it becomes the "truth". And people end up tossing perfectly good parts in the
trash.

Dennis Noward

Anonymous

My first chain on my Aether that was a Shimano lasted around 500 miles untill one of the links bent, got an SRAM chain, lasted between 2500-3000 miles

I think I am going to have to have a go on a 10speed bike soon as If the ratio's benefit me which I think they may I might decide to convert my bike. As my front mech is already 10sp ultegra so all I need is rear mech, new cassette, chain and 10spd right shifter.

pedalrog

I expect to get (and do) around 3000 miles from a chain. I have 2 bikes with Campag 10-speed and these last ages.
However, my 'cross bike with 105 10-speed had a new cassette & chain after a mere 300 miles - or after a season of 'cross races and training. I know the wear is multiplied off-road but I wasn't too impressed. So I had a SRAM chain on an Ultegra cassette and this seems better.
Will be changing the lot for trusty Campag next time.

You could buy 3 chains and rotate them, there should be a considerable saving in cassettes in the long run. Whatever, buy SRAM chains.

Anonymous

What makes SRAM chains last longer? They don't look much different to me but they last longer here too.

Chaz.Harding

The main reason everyone's chains (or several to be honest) wear horrendously un-evenly, is who is using them, and how.

I'm a big guy, who rides low gears and mashes up hills, and grinds slowly on the flats. My chains will not last as long all things being equal, because the extra strain of just doing 40-60 rpms. Someone who spins it up, at 90-110 rpms travelling at the same speed is sharing the strain with twice as many links. So the chain will last longer.

Another is terrain. I like hills. This is more strain on my poor chains, compared to someone who rides mostly on the flat. Also, weather can affect chains - wet and gritty conditions will naturally eat chains faster than dry and sunny weather. Another is luggage, and rider weight. Although I have no luggage (panniers ect), I am a heavy guy at 90kgs. Someone who is 60kgs will probably not wear chains at the rate I can.

You just gotta find what works for you, and consider the factors of your riding. I end up changing sprockets quite often, as my gears are small, and I mash alot. Hope this helps a bit!

J.O.Netto

My chain is a PC1170 from sram, it is now with 7270 Kilometres in 2 years of use, and it is very fine, i have a tool to measure the space into links, and already put in mechanic to measure with his tools, and it is all fine... this legend of need to change every 1000 kilometres is just a legend...

thistle_

Slow1972 wrote:

Park tools do a simple chain stretch measuring tool - you'll find that's what most bike shops use to decide if you need a new chain or not - takes about 20 seconds to check

Failing that, use a decent ruler: 12 links = 12 inches pin to pin.
Sheldon Brown has the numbers. From memory, 12 ⅛ or more then you need to replace the sprockets, 12 1/16 you can just replace the chain.

Just a thought, is the skipping always in the same spot on the chain? (a stiff link or a link plate about to fail) Or is it just under power? (Worn drivetrain IME)

gethinceri

3,784 miles on my Campag 11 speed chain, chain tool shows less than 0.75 wear.

imposter2.0

Wow - someone dug up a seven year old thread - is this a new record?

dennisn

A chain will last until it breaks or until you decide it's worn out using whatever method you decide on. I doubt that there is a lot of rocket science involved. Buy the Park measuring tool, measure it with a 12 inch ruler, keep track of the mileage and pitch it after 2, 3, or 4 thousand miles. Whatever suits you.

peterbob

I suspect the chain measuring tool is the problem here. Its about the mileage when they start telling lies, the aluminium rollers have worn a little I suspect, this doesn't affect chain length which wears teeth. Measuring the distance between pins should confirm its still ok.

dstev55

How to seamlessly resurrect a 7 year old thread without anyone noticing! Apart from me of course :-)

Edit - didn't see the 2nd page!!!

noodleman

hambones wrote:

Take any advice given on parts with caution - you get the impression many on here have shares in bike shops the speed they recommend change!

My Ultegra chain has done 7500 miles over 3 years in all weather and is fine - very little wear on cassette either. So for me changing these parts in one go is far cheaper than constantly changing the chain every 500-1000 miles.

Agree with this. Got a campagnolo chorus chain that's done 6000 miles. I bought a new one only because it was celeste to match the bike. Measuring up the old and the new showed no stretch at all and it ran perfectly up until removing it.
I do clean and re-lube after most rides so i guess this helps a fair bit. Replacing a chain after 1000 miles seems strange.

kettrinboy

On my 06 Scott CR1 the original Shimano 6600 chainset did 11k miles and the second chainset is on 8k miles and counting , i dont rotate chains but just use one chainset until the chain is 1-1.5% stretched and then replace it.

vrsmatt

I generally change chains every £3-4k but that's precautionary and not due to signs of excessive wear

OP problems sound like an alignment problem to me, maybe a bent mech hangar or slight misalignment of the frame

I'd be changing cables and outers first though as shifting performance always deteriorates exponentially as these gum up. I change every 12 months a a matter of course

keef66

VRSMatt wrote:

I'd be changing cables and outers first though as shifting performance always deteriorates exponentially as these gum up. I change every 12 months a a matter of course

Crikey! I've got some gear cables that are coming up for 9 years old. Although my RH 105 shifter makes sure it gets a new inner cable every couple of years by eating through it inside the shifter.

The older 9 speed Tiagra has never had a cable change...

markhewitt1978

thistle (MBNW) wrote:

Just a thought, is the skipping always in the same spot on the chain? (a stiff link or a link plate about to fail) Or is it just under power? (Worn drivetrain IME)

Note that this post is 7 years old, I would hope he has it sorted by now.

dennisn

What if my chain only skips on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday? Is this a lubrication problem? Or an issue with those little bitty screws on the rear D?

keef66

dennisn wrote:

What if my chain only skips on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday? Is this a lubrication problem? Or an issue with those little bitty screws on the rear D?

Not sure about that one. Could you possibly ride it only on Tuesdays, Thursdays and at the weekend?