Also, loving the fixed but a different problem

PhilipTom
PhilipTom Posts: 39
edited January 2009 in Road general
Yet another newbie numpty on a Singlecross fixed (42/16) which I'm loving but getting totally freaked out by the whole "setting off under pressure" scenario.

You know, at the lights, a roudabout, or worst of all, turning right onto a busy major road, and there I am desperately trying to get the second foot clipped in but failing miserably.

Naturally, I end up pedalling miles with the second foot half clipped in, until I find a quiet bit of road where I can play chase the pedal with the unclipped foot.

So, what's the secret? Just practice or am I missing a trick. I know track standing is pretty critical but I'm not the world's best at this just yet.

Ta'.
Winter warhorse: Giant Peloton 8400 ('99 vintage)
Couldn't resist: Spez. Singlecross Fixie ('08)
Summer cool: Custom Rourke, Deda 16.5 ('08)

Comments

  • spasypaddy
    spasypaddy Posts: 5,180
    i dont trackstand but use SPDs instead of my road pedals on my fixed. If i miss the first clip n opportunity i am wearing shoes that i can push down on the pedals without being clipped in so it doesnt matter.
  • Yep, am using SPD-SL's so can get away with only being partially fixed in although this gets a bit tricky climbing or descending at speed.

    Is this too basic a question for the fixie elite?

    (Cadence record currently standing at 152 for 32 mph and no bounce! Mind you, I put that down to rollers......blah, blah.....)
    Winter warhorse: Giant Peloton 8400 ('99 vintage)
    Couldn't resist: Spez. Singlecross Fixie ('08)
    Summer cool: Custom Rourke, Deda 16.5 ('08)
  • I'm relativley new to the fixed scene and at first when faced with this problem I pannicked. But as time goes on you do a couple of things.....
    1. Get better at clipping in
    2. Get a WHOLE lot more relaxed about things, making it easier to clip in
    3. Get better at track standing (I haven't reached this stage yet!)
  • spasypaddy
    spasypaddy Posts: 5,180
    No i use SPDs the mountain bike style, so they are double sided. I would never contemplate riding fixed without double sided pedals.
  • GarethPJ
    GarethPJ Posts: 295
    Having a larger opening (ooooo-errrrr, obviously) road pedals are much easier to clip into than spuds. Furthermore road pedals don't need to be double sided as they should always come to rest in the right position. I have a wonky left ankle which affects the fine control of my foot, this gives me a bit of bother clipping into spuds but my good old Look pedals are as easy to get into as Paris Hilton (allegedly). I'd definitely go for road pedals for ease of clippage. Riding off road I stick to platforms.

    Having said all that I would advocate starting riding fixed with platforms. It's easier to get used to that way.

    63xc has some good hints, although they mainly apply to clips and straps but the principal is pretty much the same. http://www.63xc.com/gregg/101_7.htm
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    I use Time ATAC MTB pedals - V easy to clip in to on the move.
  • Mountain bike double sided SPDs are WAY easier to get into than the single sided roadie ones (I have SPD-SLs on my road bike)

    The MTBs one on my fix are just stamp and go. The road ones are fine if you get it right first time, but if you misstime hooking up the pedal and end standing on the underneath of it, it's like walking on ice, not helped by the complete lack of "feel" in road shoes.
  • glenwatt
    glenwatt Posts: 155
    PhilipTom wrote:
    Yet another newbie numpty on a Singlecross fixed (42/16) which I'm loving but getting totally freaked out by the whole "setting off under pressure" scenario.

    You know, at the lights, a roudabout, or worst of all, turning right onto a busy major road, and there I am desperately trying to get the second foot clipped in but failing miserably.

    Naturally, I end up pedalling miles with the second foot half clipped in, until I find a quiet bit of road where I can play chase the pedal with the unclipped foot.

    So, what's the secret? Just practice or am I missing a trick. I know track standing is pretty critical but I'm not the world's best at this just yet.

    Ta'.

    I'm right with you as this is my first week on the Tricross and on fixed.

    Fitted the SPD's straight away and have only had one incident so far!

    I was Ok doing track stands before I went fixed, now I just can't seem to do it. I guess I will just need to find somewhere and practice.
    Glen

    Growing old is mandatory; growing up is optional.
  • Unfortunately, new pedals and cleats are out right now (although maybe that is the answer) so any other thoughts appreciated.

    (The problem being, of course, that new pedals means having to buy another bike to put the pedals from the Tricross on! Hmmm........well, I couldn't just waste a set of pedals.......)
    Winter warhorse: Giant Peloton 8400 ('99 vintage)
    Couldn't resist: Spez. Singlecross Fixie ('08)
    Summer cool: Custom Rourke, Deda 16.5 ('08)
  • GarethPJ
    GarethPJ Posts: 295
    JonEdwards wrote:
    Mountain bike double sided SPDs are WAY easier to get into than the single sided roadie ones (I have SPD-SLs on my road bike)

    The MTBs one on my fix are just stamp and go. The road ones are fine if you get it right first time, but if you misstime hooking up the pedal and end standing on the underneath of it, it's like walking on ice, not helped by the complete lack of "feel" in road shoes.

    I've never used SPD-SL, being a long time user of Look pedals, but I can't really see how you could miss on a road pedal. My pedals always come to rest nose up. So it's just a case of swining your foot forwards at the pedal, the nose of the cleat hooks onto the front of the pedal, keep pushing forward and it just naturally lifts the pedal, rotating the crank and then click, you're in.

    I know a lot of track riders swear by the old SPD-R saying they are much better than SLs, so maybe the later pedals are a step backwards?

    One problem with "stamp and go" is that you are applying quite a lot of downward pressure on your trailing pedal, thus slowing your forward momentum when you are trying to pull away.

    As I say though I don't have the fine control necessary to successfully find the entry on spuds with my left foot, so it's immaterial to me. I have been told that eggbeaters are much better in this respect, but I've never tried them. And if you like having double sided pedals, four sides must be twice as good.
  • No doubt it's a practice thing. I ride MTB pedals 5-7 days a week, road ones maybe once or twice. With hindsight I should have got Speedplays or CB Quattros which are double sided. (live in London, so lots of stopping at red lights. I'm a pretty decent trackstander, but just cannot be arsed sometimes)

    The road pedal does hang correctly when stationary, but I find as i kick off, it swings around, so i have to look down to see where it's swung to.

    With the MTB ones I find I'm generally pushing down on the pedal to engage just as that side gets into it's first powerstroke. Perfect.
  • GarethPJ
    GarethPJ Posts: 295
    I think there is also a difference in technique between the two of us. I tend to clip in as soon as I start moving. I stop with my leading pedal at two o'clock and unclip from the trailing pedal. Then when it's time to go I press the leading pedal and clip in the trailing pedal almost simultaneously.

    I do exactly the same when riding with a freewheel which I find helps. I know some people have different techniques for clipping in fixed or free, which will only complicate matters.
  • GarethPJ - interesting, I shall try to be more methodical with my clipping in routine and see if it helps. Certainly sounds sensible to replicate road to fixie clipping in process.
    Winter warhorse: Giant Peloton 8400 ('99 vintage)
    Couldn't resist: Spez. Singlecross Fixie ('08)
    Summer cool: Custom Rourke, Deda 16.5 ('08)
  • LA
    LA Posts: 26
    Similar to GarethPJ, I have my leading pedal as probably nearer 12/1 o'clock which gives me the maximum time for the pedal to come up and to clip in. Also set off really slowly by controlling the speed with your other leg, again to give you time to clip in.

    Unless you want to gun it from the start at the lights/junction, surely its better to be slower setting of and clipped in straight away than having to pedal 100yds down the road one legged!

    Oh yes, practice helps :D
    Life is not a rehearsal
  • GarethPJ
    GarethPJ Posts: 295
    LA wrote:
    Oh yes, practice helps :D

    It's everything. Bear in mind that as long as you are accelerating there is no difference between fixed and free, so if you feel better that way you can always practice it with a freewheel.
  • True...............then again that sounds like too easy a solution.(!)

    By the way, has anyone bothered to fit a lockring over the fixed gear?

    Pearsons didn't seem to think it was important whilst other fixie riders in my club think it's vital.
    Winter warhorse: Giant Peloton 8400 ('99 vintage)
    Couldn't resist: Spez. Singlecross Fixie ('08)
    Summer cool: Custom Rourke, Deda 16.5 ('08)
  • Eddy S
    Eddy S Posts: 1,013
    PhilipTom wrote:
    By the way, has anyone bothered to fit a lockring over the fixed gear?

    Pearsons didn't seem to think it was important whilst other fixie riders in my club think it's vital.
    Philip, it kinda depends on how much kick-back you use, irrespective of whether you have a rear brake fitted or not. I use lock-rings on both my road and track bikes but there are very different schools of thought on this - mine is that I never, ever want the possibility of the sprocket winding/coming off. We can chat about more on Sat at Newport.
    I’m a sprinter – I warmed up yesterday.
  • Thanks Eddy.

    Yep, chats on Saturday in between the mayhem. Can't wait!

    Philip
    Winter warhorse: Giant Peloton 8400 ('99 vintage)
    Couldn't resist: Spez. Singlecross Fixie ('08)
    Summer cool: Custom Rourke, Deda 16.5 ('08)