Shimano tiagra

ajford1
ajford1 Posts: 12
edited February 2011 in Road beginners
I bought a giant scr 1.5 a couple of months ago which has a tiagra groupset.
I had used it a couple of times and the front shifter would not change the big ring to the smaller ring. I recently took it in for a free service and they explained it is part of the braking in of the gears/bike and they completed a srvice for me.

Had the bike back yesterday and it worked fine on the ride home...took it out this morning planning a longer ride and immediately the shifter wasnt working again.

I have tried to do some reading up on the net and seems a common problem in new bikes. So do i take it back in again or can somebody give me advice/point me in the right direction to adjusting to solve my problem.
Thanks all.

Comments

  • Gary D
    Gary D Posts: 431
    Take it back to the shop and keep doing so until it is put right!!

    To say it is part of the "breaking in" process is complete twaddle :evil: :evil:

    Genrally, the only thing that happens when a bike is that new, is that the cables stretch a little and will require minor adjustment. They should have done this as part of the service.
    Either it wasn't set up correctly in the first place or there is possibly a faulty component.

    The shop should fix it whatever it is.

    Gary.
    Fungus The Muffin MAn wrote:
    Oh and I feel like I've been raped by an Orangutan :shock: And I've got legs like Girders :lol:
  • zanes
    zanes Posts: 563
    Hi, I appreciate this is a new bike=frustration, but might it be easier in the short and longer term to read up on the net about derailleur adjustments (assuming it's doing the whole not-shifting-onto-big-ring-thing again?)
    PS>

    http://www.parktool.com <== great site

    EDIT: it would be if got the address right!
  • John C.
    John C. Posts: 2,113
    The Tiagra groupset is a perfectly good product, yes you should learn how to adjust it, but the shop you bought it from should set it up properly. In practice it is very easy to set up, to explain here is not (for me anyway) so I would suggest you get someone locally to show you how, and while they are at it get them to show you how to adjust the rear mech too.
    http://www.ripon-loiterers.org.uk/

    Fail to prepare, prepare to fail
    Hills are just a matter of pace
  • rally200
    rally200 Posts: 646
    Is it a double set up?

    I found changing front a b*stard on my tiagra double, as mine had been set up completely wrong by LBS (i.e, was changing using one of the "notches" intended for the triple set up. Used the shimano manual (easy to find on their website) to start again from scratch - all now fine.

    It's a good idea to find out how to set it uo as the cables will stretch & req. little readjustments you don't want to be going into the shop every ten minutes
  • ajford1
    ajford1 Posts: 12
    yeah its a double.
    thanks for the advice all...gonna take it in to lbs tommorow and get it fixed and also begin to read up on making the adjustments myself.
    thanks all
  • fuzzynavel
    fuzzynavel Posts: 718
    rally200 wrote:
    Is it a double set up?

    I found changing front a b*stard on my tiagra double, as mine had been set up completely wrong by LBS (i.e, was changing using one of the "notches" intended for the triple set up. Used the shimano manual (easy to find on their website) to start again from scratch - all now fine.

    It's a good idea to find out how to set it uo as the cables will stretch & req. little readjustments you don't want to be going into the shop every ten minutes

    I have the same problem on my SCR 1.5...it seems like the front mech is set up for a triple not a double. I will look at shimano website for the manual. cheers
    17 Stone down to 12.5 now raring to get back on the bike!
  • ajford1
    ajford1 Posts: 12
    its a pain in the **** thats all i know lol
  • Headhuunter
    Headhuunter Posts: 6,494
    I would definitely take it back. If you have paid full, brand new price for a bike, you expect to have it working perfectly! If yuo do it yourself you may invalidate the warranty if you happen to damage something.
    Do not write below this line. Office use only.
  • simon_e
    simon_e Posts: 1,707
    Gary D wrote:
    Take it back to the shop and keep doing so until it is put right!!

    To say it is part of the "breaking in" process is complete twaddle :evil: :evil:
    Spot on. As others have said, it's good to know how to sort things yourself but you've paid them for it so they fix it. Be nice but firm.

    I find the front mech has stretched more than the rear on my SCR 2 (Tiagra triple) but it should work perfectly otherwise. Nice bike, hope you enjoy riding it.
    Aspire not to have more, but to be more.
  • rally200
    rally200 Posts: 646
    Headhuunter wrote:
    I would definitely take it back. If you have paid full, brand new price for a bike, you expect to have it working perfectly! If yuo do it yourself you may invalidate the warranty if you happen to damage something.

    True. but my lbs isn't all that "L" and I was desparate to get out. also I only meant unclamping the cable & adjusting the mech - if that doesn't sort it I wouldn't recommend anyone mess with the internals of an sti lever while it's still under warrrannty
  • mba007
    mba007 Posts: 95
    I've just had the front derailler shifting problem with my SCR 1.5 delivered today. For me it was my ineptitude of pushing the large lever when on the large cog when, instead, I should have pushed the smaller lever to change to the small cog.

    My solution... unscrew the little screw holding the cable onto the derailler to release the derailler spring, move the shifter to the correct position (can't describe this better) and then reattach the cable.

    It is going to take a little bit of self-control not to do it again, as it is extremely easy to do. Must remember: large lever = larger cog, small lever = smaller cog...

    The larger lever does not necessarily mean faster!
  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    mba - this pushing the large lever when already on the big ring should not cause a problem if the mech is set up properly, you should be unable to push it more than a few mm. It sounds like the limit screw needs adjustment.
  • percusski
    percusski Posts: 41
    It should work perfectly from new, i think they are giving you the run-around.
    All that was needed on mine was adjusting the cable tension after a few weeks and that was it. It does exactly what it was designed to do, in fact how much better could a far more expensive model perform the task? One presses the lever and the chain moves!!!
  • rally200
    rally200 Posts: 646
    just to check - double setup - big ring should be be the middle position on the sti lever
  • mba007
    mba007 Posts: 95
    alfablue wrote:
    mba - this pushing the large lever when already on the big ring should not cause a problem if the mech is set up properly, you should be unable to push it more than a few mm. It sounds like the limit screw needs adjustment.

    The bike came (through the post) with a warning note on the handlebars warning against pushing the large lever once on the big ring, as it could break the lever mechanism. The lever is designed for a triple but the bike is a double. AFAIK (which isn't very far) I'm not sure whether adjusting the limit screws would solve the inherent triple-lever-on-a-double problem. I'm happy to be corrected.
  • manick0de
    manick0de Posts: 202
    rally200 wrote:
    just to check - double setup - big ring should be be the middle position on the sti lever

    No, my understanding (and the way I've set my bikes up) is that big ring is still the top on the sti and the smaller ring is the middle.

    Before clamping the gear cable I shift from the small to the middle so that's the new starting point.
  • Mister W
    Mister W Posts: 791
    Agreed. If you set it up so the big ring is the top on the sti, if you inadvertently click the little lever too many times all that will happen is that the cable will go slack and you'll need to click the big one a couple of times to take up the slack.
  • ConsciousPilot
    ConsciousPilot Posts: 117
    My boardman came with sti shifters set with big ring in middle. Changed the wrong way a few times when I first got it but used to it now. Is there any advantage to change the setup to big ring at the top?
    2 Wheels or not 2 wheels..That is not in question.
  • rally200
    rally200 Posts: 646
    Mister W wrote:
    Agreed. If you set it up so the big ring is the top on the sti, if you inadvertently click the little lever too many times all that will happen is that the cable will go slack and you'll need to click the big one a couple of times to take up the slack.

    I think the "official" SHimano line is to use the two lower positions and then try not to bust the lever. your suggestion sounds sensible - is it fiddly to set up that way? is the trimming affected?

    in a fit of inappropriate ski-glove derived muppetry I managed to "overchange" my double yesterday throwing the chain (scratching my beautiful new Tiagra crank in the process) and jamming the lever in the triple big ring position - unclamped the cable to release the lever and all fine now - I wonder now if its forcing a jammed lever back that breaks them?

    I think the lesson is - time to put on my proper bike gloves, its not cold enough to justify sausage fingers.

    P.s. before anyone slags me asking for thinking my tiagra crankset is cool - this is the beginners forum
  • tonyw43
    tonyw43 Posts: 249
    rally200 wrote:
    P.s. before anyone slags me asking for thinking my tiagra crankset is cool - this is the beginners forum

    Nowt wrong with Tiagra mate, have changed my entire groupset over to Tiagra, good value for money if you ask me. The way I look at it, it's not the kit that makes me go faster, it's my legs. :lol:
    TonyTwitter
    Ribble 7005
  • rally200
    rally200 Posts: 646
    TonyW43 wrote:
    rally200 wrote:
    P.s. before anyone slags me asking for thinking my tiagra crankset is cool - this is the beginners forum

    Nowt wrong with Tiagra mate, have changed my entire groupset over to Tiagra, good value for money if you ask me. The way I look at it, it's not the kit that makes me go faster, it's my legs. :lol:

    too true about the legs, I certainly can't claim my groupset holding me back.
    I would've gone for a Sora groupset if only my stumpy thumbs could've reached. :wink:
  • stvn758
    stvn758 Posts: 119
    I have just bought a Raleigh Airlite SF 3.0 which has Tiagra gears, it has a three position shifter on the left - am I right in thinking because it is a road bike with just two cogs/chainrings at the front that all I get are two clicks?

    My chain has come flying off and I think going too far with the shifter is doing it.
  • sturmey
    sturmey Posts: 964
    I would recommend several people posting on this thread read the Shimano tech docs relevant to the front shifter and understand the concept of the 'trim' function. All 'double' front Shimano shifters will give 'THREE' positions to the front mech.

    This doesn't mean they are necessarily for triple chainsets.

    The middle 'position' of the front mech is merely the trim position.

    This position is used when the chain is on the large chainring in combination with the 2 or 3 largest sprockets on the cassette. The trim function helps prevent chainrub at the front mech, which is likely to be encountered because of the angle of deflection of the chain when in these gear combinations.
  • Headhuunter
    Headhuunter Posts: 6,494
    They may not be talking "complete twaddle" when it comes to breaking gears in, as you use brakes and gear shifters, the cables will begin to stretch and gearing will begin to mesh less well, however once readjusted it should work fine for more than one ride, so there may be a bigger problem....
    Do not write below this line. Office use only.
  • simon_e
    simon_e Posts: 1,707
    stvn758 wrote:
    My chain has come flying off and I think going too far with the shifter is doing it.
    That sounds like it may be the adjustment screw, though there are other things that might cause it.

    Did you buy it from a shop? If so then take it back. Otherwise try DIY or pay your LBS to do the work.
    Aspire not to have more, but to be more.
  • tx14
    tx14 Posts: 244
    Headhuunter wrote:
    They may not be talking "complete twaddle" when it comes to breaking gears in, as you use brakes and gear shifters, the cables will begin to stretch and gearing will begin to mesh less well, however once readjusted it should work fine for more than one ride, so there may be a bigger problem....
    pretty sure all cables are prestretched with higher tension than you'll see on a bike. cable casing might shift around abit on a new bike though.
  • stvn758
    stvn758 Posts: 119
    Simon E wrote:
    stvn758 wrote:
    My chain has come flying off and I think going too far with the shifter is doing it.
    That sounds like it may be the adjustment screw, though there are other things that might cause it.

    Did you buy it from a shop? If so then take it back. Otherwise try DIY or pay your LBS to do the work.

    Bought it mail order from Ash Cycles, some shops set them up for you before they post them but they had this model in stock and the others didn't so I had to put it together myself. The gears seem fine and everything shifts okay, but having the chain come off to the right and drop down beside your foot when you are going at speed is pretty scary.

    Will give it a look tomorrow and try the limiter screws see if that stops it.
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    tx14 wrote:
    Headhuunter wrote:
    They may not be talking "complete twaddle" when it comes to breaking gears in, as you use brakes and gear shifters, the cables will begin to stretch and gearing will begin to mesh less well, however once readjusted it should work fine for more than one ride, so there may be a bigger problem....
    pretty sure all cables are prestretched with higher tension than you'll see on a bike. cable casing might shift around abit on a new bike though.

    I suspect that steel cables elongate due to inter-strand wearing as well as yield. However I have not inspected any old cables under a microscope to see if the strands are still round.
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  • Headhuunter
    Headhuunter Posts: 6,494
    DesWeller wrote:
    tx14 wrote:
    Headhuunter wrote:
    They may not be talking "complete twaddle" when it comes to breaking gears in, as you use brakes and gear shifters, the cables will begin to stretch and gearing will begin to mesh less well, however once readjusted it should work fine for more than one ride, so there may be a bigger problem....
    pretty sure all cables are prestretched with higher tension than you'll see on a bike. cable casing might shift around abit on a new bike though.

    I suspect that steel cables elongate due to inter-strand wearing as well as yield. However I have not inspected any old cables under a microscope to see if the strands are still round.

    Certainly I've found that after a lot of use, gearing needs readjusting and I've always been led to believe that this is due to inevitable cable wear and stretch
    Do not write below this line. Office use only.

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