Torque Wrench
smackmypitchupǃ
Posts: 133
I got the Park cantilever type but never really trusted it much.
I want to a buy a better one. I understand that I need a small torque range.
On ebay I have see a Norbar small T wrench range 1-20Nm for about £90 inc delivery. This seems better than others I have seen, because it starts at 1Nm.
What do you reckon? What else should I consider?
I want to a buy a better one. I understand that I need a small torque range.
On ebay I have see a Norbar small T wrench range 1-20Nm for about £90 inc delivery. This seems better than others I have seen, because it starts at 1Nm.
What do you reckon? What else should I consider?
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Comments
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Someone earlier mentioned a cheaper one from Srewfix.
Try looking in here:
http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopi ... t=screwfix
http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopi ... t=screwfix
http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopi ... t=screwfix
http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopi ... t=screwfix
http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopi ... t=screwfix
http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopi ... t=screwfix
http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopi ... t=screwfix
http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopi ... t=screwfix0 -
nothing wrong with the park one.
Ijust get one that will do the range you want and will fit you bits."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
I want something that clicks, .. cantilevers suffer parallax quite badly and can be hazardous cos you're having to torque whilst bending down to read the readout.
I want a clicky 'stop here' kind.and apparently the Norbar is MOD quality.0 -
you mean these?
http://www.dotbike.com/ProductsP1275.aspx?Track=FGL
price is quite reasonable. i'm thinking of getting one myself but couldn't find any feedbacks from someone who owns one. i think there are 2 versions too, one for higher torque range and another for lower.0 -
akcc05 wrote:you mean these?
http://www.dotbike.com/ProductsP1275.aspx?Track=FGL
price is quite reasonable. i'm thinking of getting one myself but couldn't find any feedbacks from someone who owns one. i think there are 2 versions too, one for higher torque range and another for lower.
torque range is way too high on that one.
I expect I'll go for the Norbar.0 -
how about this
http://www.icetoolz.com/icetoolz/index_pro3.php?parent=51&id=284
it is a lot cheaper than £90 afterall0 -
and starts at 5Nm.. still too high.0
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Norbar wrenches are quality tools... I have a cyclo click wrench and its a pile of shit! If you want quality get the norbar!0
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" I have a cyclo click wrench and its a pile of shoot!"
Why is this? Can you be more definitive please0 -
I think most things max out on the bike at 3-4 NM
My bars I think were 4nm, but I could be wrong.0 -
SEALEY TORQUE WRENCH 3/8"SQ DRIVE 2-24NM/1.47-17.70LB.FT £35
http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/item.php/sn/STW1012
SEALEY TRX-STAR/SPLINE/HEX BIT & DRIVER SET 42PC £20
http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/item.php/sn/AK2190 -
The only problem with the Norbar torque wrench is that you're not supposed to use them below 20% of their maximum range 20Nm = 4Nm (They aren't manufacturered to be calibrated that low in their range anyway, BS EN 26789 2003)
They are quality tools though, and to be fair the MoD use any old tools.0 -
I remember studying stuff like this in Quality on my SEP degree all those years ago...
I would imagine that there is still a degree of certainty or accuracy that could be expressed for low torque values. I would imagine the wrench is stll pretty accurate for the lower values.. certainly no more inaccurate than my Park cantilever? Besides which, wouldn't I have the same issue with any small torque wrench?0 -
I'd appreciate feedback from paradox1509 as to why he feels "I have a cyclo click wrench and its a pile of shoot! If you want quality get the norbar!"
I could, but won't, say the same about the Norbar and to buy Snap on.0 -
Seems that a torque screwdriver might be more suitable for such low settings?Uncompromising extremist0
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The trouble is that you really need two - one for lower ranges and one for higher torque settings. I looked into getting one and decided not to bother - I reckon unless you are using fancy carbon parts you are paranoid about breaking then it doesn't really seem necessary.0
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SmackMyPitchUp! wrote:I remember studying stuff like this in Quality on my SEP degree all those years ago...
I would imagine that there is still a degree of certainty or accuracy that could be expressed for low torque values. I would imagine the wrench is stll pretty accurate for the lower values.. certainly no more inaccurate than my Park cantilever? Besides which, wouldn't I have the same issue with any small torque wrench?
There may well be, Class II tools (click) are manufactured to =/- 4% of reading at 20%,60% and 100% of range, but you wont find any manufacturer or calibration facility say anything else than, "we don't recommend this tool be used below x". Manufactuers want you to buy other, lower range tools. It's not in the interests of commercial calibration facilities to do so either, in the main (if not all) Class I and II Norbar tools are manufactured to the appropriate BS standard. If they certified something outside its manufactured range and there was a problem, claims direct would be on their case straight away.
If you really wanted to use it below what it's intended for you could always standardise it before use, Norbar make some instrumentation for that too, but you might as well buy a smaller wrench/driver.
Look for Tohnichi torque tools, they are manufactured to a Japanese spec and are much better than most other tools, and they're quite cheap too.0 -
I use the Screwfix ones - lower and mid range. No problem wih them at all.0