Tiagra > Sora & 105 >Tiagra & Ultegra > 105

cjcp

DonDaddyD wrote:

(Or as Wiggle have done with the Kiron Scandium offer a bike with 105 shifters, Ultegra rear mech and a Dura Ace front mech.... best of all worlds perhaps?)

I'm sure I've heard that DA would make more of a difference in the rear mech because there's more changing to be done. However, I confess I've not this entire thread so could be wrong. But I don't think there's anything wrong with having 105 all the way through, particularly for a commuter bike.

biondino

MY DA rear mech is faster, crisper and smoother than my 105 rear mech, unquestionably, but in terms of the difference it makes to my life? Just a feeling of "ooh that's a smooth gearchage *beam*".

Rich158

There's very little difference between Ultegra SL and Dura Ace imho, there doesn't appear to be any difference in the quality of gear change, just in the weight of the groupset.

The place where I have noticed the greater difference is the shifters, I run Sora shifters with an ultegra rear mech and 105 front. Testing bikes with a full 105 or above groupset has shown a huge difference which I can only put down to better quality shifters with a more accurate cable pull rather than a better front or rear mech.

itboffin

biondino wrote:

MY DA rear mech is faster, crisper and smoother than my 105 rear mech, unquestionably, but in terms of the difference it makes to my life? Just a feeling of "ooh that's a smooth gearchage *beam*".

nothing to do with the silky smooth looks of DA then

WOO WOO TART ALERT :P

an rothar mor

Thanks I think for this thread - I am new to shimano gears and so was going to buy a bike (within previously agreed budget) with sora but have decided following reading this to upgrade to 105, with a by now largely fictional budget

gtvlusso

iain_j wrote:

gtvlusso wrote:

As for cables - it is a fecking art!!

I made a minor adjustment to my front mech last night - the outer edge has been trailing on the chain for a while so I thought easy, just pull in a bit of slack on the cable.

How the f*ck is a two-handed person meant to do it? Unless I was missing something I needed one hand to hold the mech in place, another hand to hold the cable in place, and a third hand to tighten the nut. I'm not a f*cking clock!

Sheesh 24 hours later and it's still got me fuming

You'll be requiring the good ol' "jam the handle of a screwdriver between the mech and frame to set the mech up - one hand on allen key and one hand pulling cable"

At which poin the screwdriver pings out, takes out you nicely set up tea cup for your satisfying drink after a job well done.....

alfablue

iain_j wrote:

gtvlusso wrote:

As for cables - it is a fecking art!!

I made a minor adjustment to my front mech last night - the outer edge has been trailing on the chain for a while so I thought easy, just pull in a bit of slack on the cable.

How the f*ck is a two-handed person meant to do it? Unless I was missing something I needed one hand to hold the mech in place, another hand to hold the cable in place, and a third hand to tighten the nut. I'm not a f*cking clock!

Sheesh 24 hours later and it's still got me fuming

Okay, I may be wrong here (I stand to be corrected), but if the mech outer edge is trailing on the chain when on the small ring I would release the cable, set the inner limit screw so the mech was in the right position so it didn't rub, then pull cable tight removing all slack (but not moving the mech over) and tighten the bolt, you shouldn't need to be holding the mech out against its spring. Once set up for the inner like this it should work fine for the outer with just maybe some tweaking of the outer limit screw. Only 2 hands needed 8)