2007 Avid Juicy 5's keep leaking oil after storage :-(
ghosts_cloak
Posts: 39
Hello everyone!
After a term at uni without my bike I eagerly returned home the other week and opened the shed, only to find that the rear brake was partially locked on. Upon squeezing the lever (which felt odd - immediate resistance to pulling / stiff feel) a little oil seeped out of the reservoir on the lever. Now this happened last summer but I had it fixed at the (not so) LBS, and they said it was because I had stored the bike upside down for a few months. This time I made sure to leave the bike sitting on its wheels in the usual fashion, and the only thing I can think of is that is has been particularly cold recently?
I would be extremely grateful if anyone knows the source and solution to this problem, and how I can resolve it. Im not very mechanically minded, but with the prices bike shops charge I am determined to buy the required equipment as needed, and do most bike maintenance myself :-)
Thanks very much,
Gareth
After a term at uni without my bike I eagerly returned home the other week and opened the shed, only to find that the rear brake was partially locked on. Upon squeezing the lever (which felt odd - immediate resistance to pulling / stiff feel) a little oil seeped out of the reservoir on the lever. Now this happened last summer but I had it fixed at the (not so) LBS, and they said it was because I had stored the bike upside down for a few months. This time I made sure to leave the bike sitting on its wheels in the usual fashion, and the only thing I can think of is that is has been particularly cold recently?
I would be extremely grateful if anyone knows the source and solution to this problem, and how I can resolve it. Im not very mechanically minded, but with the prices bike shops charge I am determined to buy the required equipment as needed, and do most bike maintenance myself :-)
Thanks very much,
Gareth
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Comments
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Might be a stuck piston, that would explain the stiff lever and the leaking fluid. I've had fluid come out of the bleed port on my 7s when under pressure when I've pushed the pistons back in without resetting the bite point, sounds like a similar thing happened when you pulled the lever.It's easier to ask for forgiveness than for permission.
I've bought a new bike....ouch - result
Can I buy a new bike?...No - no result0 -
Hiya, thanks for the reply, I will have a nose tomorrow and see if that is the case
I guess I will need to get a bleed kit after putting a little grease on the sticky piston?
Thanks,
Gareth0 -
Well, it did appear that one of the pistons was a bit sticky, so following one of the (many!) threads on here I used a tyre lever to wiggle the pistons apart, I think. Two hours of fiddling and I cant get the 'sandwhich' of pads and spring to fit back into the calliper though :oops: :evil: :oops: Is it really just a case of having very strong fingers?
Thanks again!
Gareth0 -
whoops double post!0
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If the pistons are right back and you still can't get the pads in there is a good chance you are holding them at the wrong angle so they are not sliding into the caliper smoothly. Try unbolting the caliper from the frame / fork so that it is free. Can make pad insertion a lot easier.It's easier to ask for forgiveness than for permission.
I've bought a new bike....ouch - result
Can I buy a new bike?...No - no result0 -
ghosts_cloak wrote:Well, it did appear that one of the pistons was a bit sticky, so following one of the (many!) threads on here I used a tyre lever to wiggle the pistons apart, I think. Two hours of fiddling and I cant get the 'sandwhich' of pads and spring to fit back into the calliper though :oops: :evil: :oops: Is it really just a case of having very strong fingers?
Thanks again!
Gareth
Gareth, Ive just recently done my first pad change on my 7's and you REALLY need to push hard to "click" the pads in. After having the hump for 2hrs trying to faff around myself, I soon realised that I need to push harder (didnt want to, as it goes against rational thought) but it does require some force.
Ive subsequently had lever problems, and just bled them myself using an official kit from CRC - My advice is to buy this kit, as you will probably need it one-day if you are experience other issues if they where like mine."I don't do double-entendres, but I do like to slip a big one in occasionally"
Giant Trance X2 / Garmin Edge 305 / Empty Wallet0 -
Thanks for the replies guys!
I am going to order a bleed kit as I am pretty sure this will need to be done asap when I get the pads back in.
I read somewhere I can open the bleed screw a little to relieve the pressure to force the pistons in properly, good idea?
How many bleeds can the bleed kit do, should I order some extra oil also?
Thanks again,
Gareth0 -
ghosts_cloak wrote:Thanks for the replies guys!
I am going to order a bleed kit as I am pretty sure this will need to be done asap when I get the pads back in.
I read somewhere I can open the bleed screw a little to relieve the pressure to force the pistons in properly, good idea?
How many bleeds can the bleed kit do, should I order some extra oil also?
Thanks again,
Gareth
If you're going to bleed anyway, then open the screw would help I suppose. I didnt do that on mine (maybe that's why mine buggered up???) Who knows. I have 7's and there is a pad adjuster dial that you turn right out before pushing the pistons back.
The fluid provided in the kit will do quite a few bleeds I reckon as any unused fluid can be squirted back in the bottle. I would estimate you could do 5 or 6 brake bleeds, maybe more.
Only used for the first time last night on one brake, still loads left in the bottle."I don't do double-entendres, but I do like to slip a big one in occasionally"
Giant Trance X2 / Garmin Edge 305 / Empty Wallet0 -
I had the same problem with my brakes. They just leaked gradually from the topcaps and the problem got worse and worse until the pads were seized againts the discs.
Trawling the web, its seems that some older models of Avids had the topcap made of an uncoated metal, which over time corroded and allowed more and more oil out from the seal. I got Evans to sort it out under garauntee, I am hoping they have replaced the topcaps for the new coated ones.The A6 Hazel Grove - "Always the worst part of any ride".0 -
Hello again, I have the bleed kit now, and a replacement top car is in the post. I was wondering anyone knows if the top cap will come with instructions of how to replace it or not? Will I need to drain the oil out first before removing the old one? Thanks again,
Gareth0 -
Hiya guys, update for you!
Well, after a very frustrating and messy 2 hour + session changing the top cap and (trying) to bleed the brakes they were still a bit spongy and slow to return. I tried again this evening, and it was a disaster, as after bleeding the caliper I physically couldn't push the fluid through the system to the lever (and all the clips were open...)
I am going to try and find a bike shop that can do it tommorow, can anyone recommend a decent shop within riding (pushing!) distance of Cambridge city centre?
Thanks for the help!
Gareth0 -
double post0
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triple...0
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quadruple!!!!0
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Pentuple?! Sorry about that!0
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ghosts_cloak wrote:Hiya guys, update for you!
Well, after a very frustrating and messy 2 hour + session changing the top cap and (trying) to bleed the brakes they were still a bit spongy and slow to return. I tried again this evening, and it was a disaster, as after bleeding the caliper I physically couldn't push the fluid through the system to the lever (and all the clips were open...)
I am going to try and find a bike shop that can do it tommorow, can anyone recommend a decent shop within riding (pushing!) distance of Cambridge city centre?
Thanks for the help!
Gareth
Gareth have you watched the YouTube video or are you following the instructions supplied with the kit?
The video is easy to follow and you can pause/play as you progress.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=6mg6NbIjmOM"I don't do double-entendres, but I do like to slip a big one in occasionally"
Giant Trance X2 / Garmin Edge 305 / Empty Wallet0