More Bike Advice sought from Another Newbie

MacBludgeon

Hi, looking for advice on a new bike and some accessories, a bit of boring background first:-

me 42, smoker, 6ft1, 245lbs, couch potato, have held high fitness levels in the past
Why cycle commute? - decided to cycle to station, 3.5 miles, so added mudguards and new lock to my old Raleigh full sus MTB, Planned to switch tyres at some point but never got there as bike was stolen first day!!! Made me even more determined and decided to research a more, boy! was I naive. Had no idea about bike theft rates and thought that £400 would have been a really expensive bike. The more I read on line the more I realise I don't know.

Current - am doing my 7 miles a day and lugging the bike on the train to work, Despite investing in 3 new, different, locks I'm just paranoid. Even though I bought a dirt cheap Freespirit Albany for the job. Have got more into the idea and am enjoying the cycling despite the weather. Have expanded my kit with reasonable peripherals, so now have Ortlieb Back Roller Classic Panniers, a reasonable toolkit with 2 spare tubes, pump, lights, high vis vest, Altura Night Vision jacket, gloves and a Sigma trip computer. About to add some 4Xl Winter longs and a couple of base layers, courtesy of links in another thread here.

Moving Forward - would like to build up, over the next few months, to the full commute of 18 miles each way. Reckon I can get it to sub 90 mins so looking at average of 12mph or better. Have got permanent locker at work and shower facilities, sadly no cycle to work scheme. After just a couple of weeks of the 7 miles daily I can see that the cheapo bike is barely fit for that let alone the full 36 a day. So I'm looking at getting a bike better fit for purpose and my questions are:-

already suggested by one LBS - Giant CRS Alliance 2008, flat bar fast commuter style road/hybrid

another LBS only really does Raleigh - they recommend Airlite SF1, stating that I'm better off avoiding hydraulic brakes unless I can spend enough.

general ideas - buy higher spec second hand, buy old bike just for frame and then add on spec as required, go for straight or drop bars, how many gears and so on.

I think that gives a reasonable assessment of my position, looking for suggestions, rack and mudguards essential and I think straight bars preferred, I like bar ends for hills. Comfort and reliability preferred over cool/super fast, also like the idea of extreme puncture prevention, Marathon Plus? Slime products etc. Simple is good, can imagine getting by on a lot less gears, maybe 12 would be enough. Budget is flexible but, as I've already blown £500 getting set up could do with keeping it under £1k or a lot less if poss. The bike would be roads only, I will buy another MTB for offroad. Super lightweight not priority as I'm carrying an extra 60lbs which will shed if I manage to get to this commute regularly. Not sure on pedals as have only ever used flats, bit nervous about other types, maybe could consider that as a future upgrade. Don't care about names, if it's cheaper just because it's not so fashionable I'm fine with that.

Sorry for the length of post but would relly appreciate feedback....thanks.....Al

cjcp

Welcome, Al!

Good effort. Just got home myself; even at this hour I can't stomach the train.
Sounds to me as if a tourer with drops might do the job (you can grap the hoods to go up hills if you normally grab bar ends). Don't know any off the top of my head, but I think Dawes do some.
Sorry for the lack of detail, but there are other folk on here can give lots more guidance. (I just use a backpack and road bike)

Rich158

I set out with the same intentions as you last spring. After a quick discussion with my LBS and a few test rides I went for the Trek 1.5. I know it's a road bike, but the head tube is slightly taller and it has enough spacers to put you in a upright position, with the added bonus that if you ever feel you want a more flat backed position you just swap some of the spacers arround.

I do a 23 mile commute (each way) most days and at first it was hell, my legs ached all the time and I was constantly knackered. However if you persevere it becomes easier as your body adapts, and as the weight comes off it just gets easier and easier. I've even changed my route now to include a few hills I would have dreaded in the past, and relish the challenge of getting up them that little bit faster every day.

Good luck with the commute, the best advice I can give on the bike is try as many different kinds as you can and see which suits you.

MacBludgeon

Seen a Trek1200 & Trek1500 on e-bay also various similar spec bikes on Gumtree. Nervous re buying second hand, any obvious things to look out for?

ansbaradigeidfran

Can you inspect it? If so, check the frame for evidence of having been bent. Look for buckling or creasing in the tubes. Also the rear dropouts, in case the derailleur's been hit and bent the frame sometime. Take the seatpost out to check a: that the seatpost isn't stuck, and b: that the inside of the frame isn't rusted (use a torch). Also, make sure that the frame fits you, or can be adjusted (saddle, handlebars) to fit you properly.

Checking for stolen goods is another thing you ought to do, but I'm not sure how you'd go about it. I didn't actually do this with the bike I just bought off eBay, but it was a cheap, rusty old bike that no sane person would steal to put on public auction.

I'm no expert at this, but there'll be other people along soon with better advice for you. :oops:

downfader

You know you could get a Brompton (save up, you know you want to ) and fold it up, get on the train and save the legs for a few weeks until fitter?

As you've probably already found out locks are a worthy investment. AVOID cable locks if the bike is publically accessible, imo they are a false economy anyway. The top Kryptonite and Abus D Locks are good, and the top of the range chains will do ok for most uses.

Also take out any quick release gear and put in normal bolted stuff as some people, while they cannot steal the bike due to the locks, will nick your QRs. Spares are cheap and handy to have around (I sometimes keep spare bike parts at work in my locker just incase). A dedicated thief is hard to stop though - we can only slow them down.

Hmm another thought.. if the frame on the bike you have is good enough you could upgrade the wheels, change the saddle, forks etc. I did this with my Marin Fairfax years ago and it went like stink.

I have been riding a new Kona Jake 09 model for the past couple of weeks. Quite fast and easy to ride (despite me being currently out of shape), but thats a drop bar bike, has taken some getting used to and I had to change the tyres within the first 2 rides due to puctures. Super light bike too.

MacBludgeon

Thanks guys, nope frame on current bike really wouldn't be worth adding to, I intend keeping it as emergency backup. Have looked at bike sizes and 58cm should be right, would possibly go for 56 for ease of control. But 58 gives me the right crotch clearance standing over top tube. But I don't mind if the bike purchase takes a while, until I'm ready for the longer distances the current bike is fine. I'm realising there is so much more to this bike stuff than I originally thought. My current concerns are more on clothing and getting the mix right for comfort and performance. Had thought my expensive golf goretex suit would do the job, how wrong I was. Made the mistake of leaving house already hot and proceeded to broil myself. Tried some homestyle layering of my own and ended up with soaking cotton t-shirts. Now with better understanding of the concept of layering I have my waterproof shell, the Altura Nightvision. Have just bought 3 merino short sleeve base layers and a long sleeved merino jersey, for mid/top layer, from Rapha. Will add a couple more mid/top layers from elsewhere but a bit cheaper!!!

What is really confusing me is the bottom half, trying to make sense of the various socks, shoes, boots, pedals, longs, shorts, 3/4, padded, lined, wicking, bibbed, waist. My wife thinks I'd look like a sad git in tights, so that's not helped my confidence any:) Tried jeans once and never again, currently wearing my work trousers with waterproofs over top. This is passable for the 3.5miles but ramp that up at all and it won't work. Have jogging bottoms but they would give the same result as cotton t's. So questions that may seem obvious, or silly, to you:-

bib or waist - pros and cons of each?
pants-boxers - do you wear them as well and if so under or over?
base layers - tucked into waist bottoms or over top?
base layers - under or over the bib?
shoes or boots?
clip, clipless or flat?
can you get shoes/boots that can start of flats but progress to cleats if need be?
shorts, 3/4 or longs?
overtrousers or waterproofs as well as shorts, 3/4 & longs?
socks - special kinds, materials to avoid, white sports ones ok?
gloves - wind or waterproof? currently using thermal fleece gloves and have been fine but no massive downpours yet

on the bike front, bearing in mind I'm looking for a road bike that'll do 200 miles a week, in all weathers, with mudguards, pannier and rack. It'll never go off road but needs to be sturdy enough to carry all that plus my 245lbs and not need constant LBS attention. Appreciate it is really hard for anyone to say, this one, that's the bike for you. but would love any more general info - manufacturers to avoid, minimum spec levels for parts, brands/parts to steer clear of, anything with reliability issues.

I know I'm asking for a lot, all I can offer in return is my eternal gratitude, reports on my progress and I'm pretty knowledgeable on golf gear.....thanks.....Al

ansbaradigeidfran

MacBludgeon wrote:

bib or waist - pros and cons of each?
pants-boxers - do you wear them as well and if so under or over?
base layers - tucked into waist bottoms or over top?
base layers - under or over the bib?
shoes or boots?
clip, clipless or flat?
can you get shoes/boots that can start of flats but progress to cleats if need be?
shorts, 3/4 or longs?
overtrousers or waterproofs as well as shorts, 3/4 & longs?
socks - special kinds, materials to avoid, white sports ones ok?
gloves - wind or waterproof? currently using thermal fleece gloves and have been fine but no massive downpours yet

Well, to go by my experience...

I ride five miles to the train station when I'm going to Uni (26" folder comes with me), or a three mile commute to my weekend job (with a big ol' hill in the way). I'm doing this on the cheap, student style.

I started with just an Aldi hi-vis waterproof and a pair of Aldi gloves, back in October. I used my regular clothes for layers (with a change of shirt for arrival at Uni), and wore jeans. Once I got caught in a hailstorm with cold, soggy jeans, I bought a pair of lycra leggings which I wear under the jeans: they cut the cold and damp. So over the distance you'll be heading to catch the train, I expect you could use your existing wardrobe to a fair extent.

I do intend to buy some proper kit, come spring/summer, and experiment with going clipless on my (currently unbuilt) bike. But it is possible to do without for now and learn what you need as you go along.

biondino

Welcome to the world of Buying Bike Gear. It's expensive but fun

downfader

Mac, have a look at running and outdoor shops, too. I ride with helly hanson tops, ronhill, salomon, etc. You can do this all on the cheap, but the more serious you get the more you get into the clothes and why people use them. Mixing and matching bike, running and other outdoor pursuits gear is very cost effective imo.

I have ridden for all my life, 17 years on the roads, and tbh have used normal trackies (cotton and poly mix usually) until very recently. Tesco, matalan, primark, etc, all do 5 quid trackies - they have a wide ankle so you'll need to either add a couple of buttons or use clips. Wearing running/cycling tights underneath will keep you warmer this time of year. Also bear in mind these things are often dark colours so reflectives added to the ankles are very handy!

For weatherproof trousers look at the £70+ stuff thats got taped seams. Usually its lightweight and has relectives, ankle/waiste adjusters... Altura, Endura, Montane, all do this stuff. Rain Legs is another product thats becoming popular.

All kinds of good gloves. I like the altura night visions but havent a pair yet. Usually around 20 quid. I also have used the neoprine alturas with the yellow backhand for a couple of years. They are ok in showers but when it really hammers down you will feel the wind and rain and they get wet.

Sealskinz are also a great make, cheap and in various colours they lack the grip and padding of normal cycling gloves though, so if you come off and go hands down they'll wreck.

sorry, I'm in a rambling mood.

jimmypippa

downfader wrote:

Mac, have a look at running and outdoor shops, too. I ride with helly hanson tops, ronhill, salomon, etc. You can do this all on the cheap, but the more serious you get the more you get into the clothes and why people use them. Mixing and matching bike, running and other outdoor pursuits gear is very cost effective imo.

Hey, that's the sort of kit I use.

Salamon Exit aero trainers,
ronhil tracksters, (with reflective bits)
some other ronhill coolmax top (in fluro-yellow, with reflective bits)

Cycling jacket in fluro-yellow with shedloads of sctchlite on it
And some neoprene overshoes with shedloads of scotchlite on them*.

And a berghaus freeflow20 rucsac.

*EDIT: Can you spot the theme?

Pretty reasonable for jogs on the hills. OK for cycling in.

downfader

I was looking at salomon trainers today. Very, very cool shoes.

cjcp

What is really confusing me is the bottom half, trying to make sense of the various socks, shoes, boots, pedals, longs, shorts, 3/4, padded, lined, wicking, bibbed, waist. My wife thinks I'd look like a sad git in tights, so that's not helped my confidence any:) Tried jeans once and never again, currently wearing my work trousers with waterproofs over top. This is passable for the 3.5miles but ramp that up at all and it won't work. Have jogging bottoms but they would give the same result as cotton t's. So questions that may seem obvious, or silly, to you:-

bib or waist - pros and cons of each?
pants-boxers - do you wear them as well and if so under or over?
base layers - tucked into waist bottoms or over top?
base layers - under or over the bib?
shoes or boots?
clip, clipless or flat?
can you get shoes/boots that can start of flats but progress to cleats if need be?
shorts, 3/4 or longs?
overtrousers or waterproofs as well as shorts, 3/4 & longs?
socks - special kinds, materials to avoid, white sports ones ok?
gloves - wind or waterproof? currently using thermal fleece gloves and have been fine but no massive downpours yet

I use full length thermal/fleeced running tights under bib shorts. Bibs keep you warmer around the lower back. You should cover your knees too (see recent chat on the SCR thread), so buy at least 3/4 length bibs if the tights/bobs option isn't on. (I bought my running tights for running/tri/du events in the winter rather than exclusively for cycling, so that's how I got my combo).

Socks - my LewisKit merinos are warm. However, I always get cold feet, so I've just started wearing a standard cycling sock underneath them. I also wear neoprene overshoes to act as a barrier to the wind and light drizzle (rain gets through, but my feet remain warm).

Baselayers under the bib.

Gloves - Altura do waterproof gloves. If it's not raining though, fleeced gloves should be fine. I use a LewisKit combo of baselayer and main glove.

Cleats - i started using these from the outset. Now, I feel much more in control when I'm attached to the pedals.

on the bike front, bearing in mind I'm looking for a road bike that'll do 200 miles a week, in all weathers, with mudguards, pannier and rack. It'll never go off road but needs to be sturdy enough to carry all that plus my 245lbs and not need constant LBS attention. Appreciate it is really hard for anyone to say, this one, that's the bike for you. but would love any more general info - manufacturers to avoid, minimum spec levels for parts, brands/parts to steer clear of, anything with reliability

Have a look at these. http://www.dawescycles.com/dawes/touring-bikes.htm

http://www.italian-solutions.co.uk/prod ... 347&page=1

I just did a search under touring bikes, so you'll have to check how you fit panniers.

MacBludgeon

Thanks for the helps folks, much appreciated, have sorted my clothing now and have chosen bike. Have gone for Giant CRS Alliance 2009, upgrade to carbon seat post, mudguards, rack and bar ends. Decided I needed the security of buying new and getting the aftersales care.....Al