Gear cable casings won't go into slot.

Mattbot2

Hello,

Received this bike this morning

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=14964

But had to wait until after school to start setting it up. So far so good, handlebars on, wheel on. But there's this one problem.

The outer casings, for the gear cables, won't go into the slots. I take it you know what I mean by that? It's like there isn't enough slack on the cable, do I just loosen it on the rear and front derailer, put them in and tighten it up?

Cheers,

Matt

Oh and just as a little side question, whilst tidying up some of the packaging around the bike, I found what looks like one of the springs that go in the quick release system, but only the front wheel needed putting on, and both of them are on there. Anything it possibly could be?

Mattbot2

Bump, sorry about being impatient, really want to get to ride it a bit tonight. Don't want to ride in the dark with no brakes.

Mattbot2

Bump, pleeeeease people. Again sorry for being impatient, but I really want to ride it tonight.

nferrar

If the stem is the one in the photo can't you just undo the bar clamp, drop the handlebar down a bit, pop the outer cables into their slots then refit the bar? Also make sure its in gear using the smallest chain ring/sprocket front and rear.

nferrar

As for the spring (I take it you mean a conical one?) then prob worth checking the rear wheel QR to but can't think of anything else that uses a conical spring apart from the quick releases.

Mattbot2

Thanks, What do you mean drop the handlebar down a bit? It's at it's lowest? I'm a bit new to bikes so apologies if i'm being stupid. Will go and get it in the smallest rings now.

synchronicity

I know what you mean...

Press the smallest gear buttons to increase the cable slack. Then you should be able to install them. Otherwise, undo the cable cinch bolts and readjust derailleurs...

redvee

Drop the rear mech down so that is sits on the smallest sprocket then push[/b[ it by hand towards the wheel and this will give you mre than enough slack to put the outters in the stops.

Mattbot2

Okay, that's on. Now having a brake issue.

Left brake. pad either rubs, or it's too loose and then the lever hits the grips. Any tips / ideas?

Cheers.

Big Red S

Smaller cable adjustments.

When it rubs, does it do it constantly or only at particular points in the revolution? If the latter, get the wheel trued.

Mattbot2

Big Red S wrote:

Smaller cable adjustments.

When it rubs, does it do it constantly or only at particular points in the revolution? If the latter, get the wheel trued.

It rubs constantly. It's hard to do on my own, usually my mate helps me. So i'll just have to keep trying. Going to give it a test ride with no front brake anyway.

dunker

apart from the small setup probs which sounds like it just needs a little fettle, that looks like a great bargain

Mattbot2

dunker wrote:

apart from the small setup probs which sounds like it just needs a little fettle, that looks like a great bargain

Yup. Is a bargain.

Front brake still playing up though. Took it for a spin without the front brake and it's just amazing. Going from No sus to Hardtail is nice

So, the brakes. Like, I set it up so it's even on both sides, pull the brake, both sides go together, and then let go of the lever, then the right one goes back but the left one stays still

Vivid

V brakes have two main adjustments, cable tension and the spring adjuster. Set the tension so that the brake isn't affecting the rotation of the wheel but is tensioned enough so that you don't have to pull the lever to the handlebars to brake. The spring adjuster is adjusted using a bolt at the side, turning it clockwise adds tension pulling the caliper outwards and counterclockwise to reduce tension.

From what you described you need to adjust the spring adjuster.

Just seen your new post, turn the left spring adjuster clockwise to add tension and pull the pad away from the rim.

Mattbot2

Vivid wrote:

V brakes have two main adjustments, cable tension and the spring adjuster. Set the tension so that the brake isn't affecting the rotation of the wheel but is tensioned enough so that you don't have to pull the lever to the handlebars to brake. The spring adjuster is adjusted using a bolt at the side, turning it clockwise adds tension pulling the caliper outwards and counterclockwise to reduce tension.

From what you described you need to adjust the spring adjuster.

Just seen your new post, turn the left spring adjuster clockwise to add tension and pull the pad away from the rim.

I have a small screw either side, is that the spring adjuster?

redvee

Turn the screw on the sticking side clockwise and the non sticking side anticlockwise, not necessarily by the same amount, do it until the arms return equally. Make sure you use the right sized allen key if that is the fitting used, very easy to round them off.

dunker

maybe that spring you found is something to do with the sticky? brake? no ideas apart from that sorry, no experience with them.

Mattbot2

Cheers everyone, going to go do the brake now. No the spring was for the front wheel, god knows how it escaped whilst I was putting it on.

Mattbot2

Okay that's the front brake done.

Only problem now is, the back brake is slightly sticky. Any tips for getting that sorted?

All these are pretty minor though, bike is great otherwise.

redvee

Another cause for sticking might be the pad alignment on the rim. Are the pads hitting the rim squarely and not slipping under the rim slightly?

Mattbot2

redvee wrote:

Another cause for sticking might be the pad alignment on the rim. Are the pads hitting the rim squarely and not slipping under the rim slightly?

They're hitting it square. Not sure what it is really.

Mattbot2

Hmm, took it for a 10 min run today, chain keeps on slipping slightly in some gears. Any ideas what that's about?

Cheers,

Matt

supersonic

They probably need fine tuning.

Did you get any instructions with the bike?

Park Tools has great step by step guides on brake and gear set up.

Mattbot2

I did get instructions, but they were pretty bad, and there was nothing about tuning gears in there.

supersonic

Sounds about right, it is a pity most manufacturers isnsit on supplying terrible manuals.

Have a look here:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64

Seems long winded, but spend quarter of an hour reading and a tinker with your bike, and you'll never have to go to a bike shop again to get gears tuned!

Mattbot2

supersonic wrote:

Sounds about right, it is a pity most manufacturers isnsit on supplying terrible manuals.

Have a look here:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64

Seems long winded, but spend quarter of an hour reading and a tinker with your bike, and you'll never have to go to a bike shop again to get gears tuned!

Just read that again for the fourth time and it's starting to make some sense, I have some questions though.

1. It's saying about pulling the cable to change the gear? Is this simple enough to do? The bike isn't here at the moment but will be tomorrow, so is it just a case of doing it and then I'll understand?

2. I don't really understand this business about the "B-Screw" could you please explain it?

3. My rear brake is still a bit sticky, the cable seems to go quite loose when I'm not pulling the lever, but it's tight when I re-tighten it.

Thanks a lot you guys, you've been a really great help so far. I can offer nothing but my sincerest apologies for my lack of understanding and skill. I'm new to it all.

supersonic

It will be a lot easier to visualise with the bike there! Have a go, if get stuck, post back.

B tension - adjusts how close the top jockey wheel sits to the cogs. Adjust so it just clears (ie stops rattling or rubbing when you pedal). You will see the mech move as you turn the screw.

You may need to add some cable tension to the brake. Turn the barrel adjuster on the brake lever outwards a turn or two. This is assuming the brakes hit the rims squarely and evenly all ready, and the wheel is true.

Mattbot2

supersonic wrote:

It will be a lot easier to visualise with the bike there! Have a go, if get stuck, post back.

B tension - adjusts how close the top jockey wheel sits to the cogs. Adjust so it just clears (ie stops rattling or rubbing when you pedal). You will see the mech move as you turn the screw.

You may need to add some cable tension to the brake. Turn the barrel adjuster on the brake lever outwards a turn or two. This is assuming the brakes hit the rims squarely and evenly all ready, and the wheel is true.

Ah, cheers.

Any tips for a makeshift "stand" to have the bike on whilst doing all this? Or is just putting it upside down acceptable?

supersonic

Upside down is OK, but can confuse things, and hard to change gear!

These are a good cheap solution for getting the back wheel off the ground:

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/cycling/mai ... EGMNDDS500

Probably get them cheaper than that, or even make one.

Mattbot2

supersonic wrote:

Upside down is OK, but can confuse things, and hard to change gear!

These are a good cheap solution for getting the back wheel off the ground:

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/cycling/mai ... EGMNDDS500

Probably get them cheaper than that, or even make one.

Hmm, probably have to do a makeshift one tomorrow as I want to get it properly operational for Monday.

Thanks again. I brought along my camera with a fully charged battery in case any photo's / videos are needed.

Mattbot2

Okay, just been out and done a full assessment of the current problems.

1. In some gears, for example, 1 on the front, 8 on the back, the chain rubs on the derailer, same for similar gears, such as 3 on the front, 1 on the back. Is this normal?

2. Chain keeps skipping.

3. Some gears have difficulty changing, no particular gears, just in some instances, it'll not change up, but start making clicking noises, then I have to go up a gear, then back down to get it to work properly.

4. Rear brake sticking.

5. Front brake squealing.


I take it all of the gear related problems are just because the gears haven't been tuned yet.

I've also been told that to stop the brake squealing. I should "toe" the brake, meaning that the brake block hits the rim at the front before the back. Any advice on how to set this up?