The pro's and cons of carbon

gtvlusso
gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
edited November 2008 in Commuting chat
Okay - I am flush this month, which means:

a, I will be drinking allot more
b, I can pay a bit of my credit card debt
c, buy the wife something nice
d, buy myself something nice

On point d; Should I invest on some carbon bars/stem on my Boardman Team Roadie - pic is in signature? Will it make a difference to road noise/feel? Is it worth it over the Ritchey Pro Alloy bars and stem I currently have?

The bike is now my regular commuter as the Ambrosio is making way for a fixie build.

Comments

  • Littigator
    Littigator Posts: 1,262
    Doubt it and you may find they're actually heavier than alloy ones if you buy budget end ones.

    Sheldon Brown has a great article on frame materials and the overwhelming conclusion to what contributes most to ride comfort is the tyre pressure and your seatpost.
    Roadie FCN: 3

    Fixed FCN: 6
  • gtvlusso
    gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    Littigator wrote:
    Doubt it and you may find they're actually heavier than alloy ones if you buy budget end ones.

    Sheldon Brown has a great article on frame materials and the overwhelming conclusion to what contributes most to ride comfort is the tyre pressure and your seatpost.

    Yeah, I read that - bought a carbon seatpost and Specialized Tri-Trip seat. Weight is not a huge problem as the bike is only 7.2kg anyway, I was thinking more about road vibration.....is the change worth the hassle?
  • always_tyred
    always_tyred Posts: 4,965
    Not worth the hassle.

    Double wrap your bars, or peel back the shifters and put a bit of gel tape there.
  • DonDaddyD
    DonDaddyD Posts: 12,689
    edited November 2008
    I have a carbon seatpost and my ride comfort has greatly improved. Improved so much so I think I'm marginally faster. (I keep my wheels as to 120psi as possible).

    Seatpost: http://shop.devercycles.co.uk/product/1 ... e_XXX_Lite

    Seat: http://shop.devercycles.co.uk/product/3 ... addle_2007

    Was thinking of getting carbon fibre handlebars and stem but if I do that it will be purely for aesthetic reasons...
    Food Chain number = 4

    A true scalp is not only overtaking someone but leaving them stopped at a set of lights. As you, who have clearly beaten the lights, pummels nothing but the open air ahead. ~ 'DondaddyD'. Player of the Unspoken Game
  • gtvlusso
    gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    Always Tyred wrote:
    Not worth the hassle.

    Double wrap your bars, or peel back the shifters and put a bit of gel tape there.

    Didn't think of that! Cheers! :D
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    I wouldn't bother. Faster wheels will make more of a difference to performance (that's not a comment on your wheels, btw). There may be some nice deals in post-Christmas.

    C+ tested a load of bars a couple of months ago.

    Which bike are you using for the Ironman? (Did I read that you're doing that?)
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • always_tyred
    always_tyred Posts: 4,965
    gtvlusso wrote:
    Always Tyred wrote:
    Not worth the hassle.

    Double wrap your bars, or peel back the shifters and put a bit of gel tape there.

    Didn't think of that! Cheers! :D
    Unfortunately this doesn't solve the problem of what to buy. I mean, you ARE going to buy something, I can tell.
  • Al_38
    Al_38 Posts: 277
    Carbon bars I personally think are a bit more vibration absorbing than an alloy pair, you could look on fleabay for some a bit cheaper. You can also get shaped ones - flat-topped etc which I also think helps a bit. Carbon stems are a waste of time IMO though - they are heavy, expensive, don't seem to make any difference and I think look pretty ugly too.
  • biondino
    biondino Posts: 5,990
    DDD you own a £100 seatpost? Blimey! I reckon the one supplied on my Focus (an own-brand aluminium jobbie) is probably worth about £15...
    My Focus / My Bob Jackson
    Blog (incl. bikes)
  • gtvlusso
    gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    cjcp wrote:
    I wouldn't bother. Faster wheels will make more of a difference to performance (that's not a comment on your wheels, btw). There may be some nice deals in post-Christmas.

    C+ tested a load of bars a couple of months ago.

    Which bike are you using for the Ironman? (Did I read that you're doing that?)

    I had to sell my TT bike due to a kitchen refurb cash shortfall (due to a couple of changes by my wife, who failed to tell me what she told the builder!). I am either gonna borrow from a mate who is not doing it (Cervelo) or have to hire something - Maybe Planet X Stealth or something. Ultimately I could use the Boardman as I am training on it - but it may be knackered by then! :cry:
  • Slow Downcp
    Slow Downcp Posts: 3,041
    Different tyres may make more difference - Pro Race 3's or GP4000s?
    Carlsberg don't make cycle clothing, but if they did it would probably still not be as good as Assos
  • gtvlusso
    gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    Slow Downcp wrote:
    Different tyres may make more difference - Pro Race 3's or GP4000s?

    I am using Conti's race tyres at the moment - hopeless in the wet! I will wear them out first, have some Armadillo's spare for commuting :)
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    gtvlusso wrote:
    cjcp wrote:
    I wouldn't bother. Faster wheels will make more of a difference to performance (that's not a comment on your wheels, btw). There may be some nice deals in post-Christmas.

    C+ tested a load of bars a couple of months ago.

    Which bike are you using for the Ironman? (Did I read that you're doing that?)

    I had to sell my TT bike due to a kitchen refurb cash shortfall (due to a couple of changes by my wife, who failed to tell me what she told the builder!). I am either gonna borrow from a mate who is not doing it (Cervelo) or have to hire something - Maybe Planet X Stealth or something. Ultimately I could use the Boardman as I am training on it - but it may be knackered by then! :cry:

    The Boardman will be fine for it - I've used an alu Tifosi over that distance. And it's always good to get used to riding the bike you're going to use for long distance events. IMHO, you're better off saving up for some faster wheels - this will make much more difference time-wise over 112 miles. Also, you don't want to put tri bars on carbon handlebars.

    Double-wrapping the bars is a good idea, but I've only ever had to do that for the cobbles in Flanders. You shouldn't need to do this for the commute, as bad as British roads can be.

    Also, you want to dampen the vibration as much as possible before it reaches the stem, which is why it's a good idea to have a good set of forks.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • gtvlusso
    gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    cjcp wrote:
    gtvlusso wrote:
    cjcp wrote:
    I wouldn't bother. Faster wheels will make more of a difference to performance (that's not a comment on your wheels, btw). There may be some nice deals in post-Christmas.

    C+ tested a load of bars a couple of months ago.

    Which bike are you using for the Ironman? (Did I read that you're doing that?)

    I had to sell my TT bike due to a kitchen refurb cash shortfall (due to a couple of changes by my wife, who failed to tell me what she told the builder!). I am either gonna borrow from a mate who is not doing it (Cervelo) or have to hire something - Maybe Planet X Stealth or something. Ultimately I could use the Boardman as I am training on it - but it may be knackered by then! :cry:

    The Boardman will be fine for it - I've used an alu Tifosi over that distance. And it's always good to get used to riding the bike you're going to use for long distance events. IMHO, you're better off saving up for some faster wheels - this will make much more difference time-wise over 112 miles. Also, you don't want to put tri bars on carbon handlebars.

    Double-wrapping the bars is a good idea, but I've only ever had to do that for the cobbles in Flanders. You shouldn't need to do this for the commute, as bad as British roads can be.

    Also, you want to dampen the vibration as much as possible before it reaches the stem, which is why it's a good idea to have a good set of forks.

    I got the Boardman on C2W as a commuter/trainer and short distance tri bike (as my TT bike was a bit expensive and nice for the shorter events). However, I built the Ambrosio for town and stuff - bit of a hack and used it loads!
    I will take your advice though and go for the wheels/tyres thing. I was thinking of a full on tri flat bar (cannot be arsed with changing the levers), but will probably just go with tri extensions.

    Decision made - handlebar tape, tri extensions - look into better forks (although the ones I have are all carbon including the steerer, :D
  • DonDaddyD
    DonDaddyD Posts: 12,689
    biondino wrote:
    DDD you own a £100 seatpost? Blimey! I reckon the one supplied on my Focus (an own-brand aluminium jobbie) is probably worth about £15...

    The seatpost costs a third of the original cost of my bike...

    But I always wanted a carbon seatpost and when my original seatpost and seat were stolen I decided to treat myself. I was looking at £50 ones (at DeVer cycles in Streatham/Norbury) but they didn't have any with the length that I wanted and they didn't feel as light as the one I have now. The owner did take £20 off the cost of the post though.

    I wanted an red Selle Italia seat as well.... but they didn't have that so I settled for the specialized one, which is surprisingly comfortable.
    Food Chain number = 4

    A true scalp is not only overtaking someone but leaving them stopped at a set of lights. As you, who have clearly beaten the lights, pummels nothing but the open air ahead. ~ 'DondaddyD'. Player of the Unspoken Game
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    gtvlusso wrote:
    Decision made - handlebar tape, tri extensions - look into better forks (although the ones I have are all carbon including the steerer, :D

    The forks which came with the bike might be fine as they are. If you have the overwhelming urge to buy some, I bought Reynolds Ouzo Comp forks for my commuter and they absorb road vibration brilliantly (and I have Ritchey alu bars too). I bought them in the US for a bargain when the x-rate was in our favour.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • il_principe
    il_principe Posts: 9,155
    Don't bother with carbon bars/stem - if you crash you're likely to write them off whereas Alu ones will most likely be ok. Why not invest in a better set - perhaps Deda 100/Newton combo - lightweight and excellent. Personally I'd fo for some new wheels. I've got my eye on some FFWD F6R 190's or Reynolds SDV66C.
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    jashburnham wrote:
    Don't bother with carbon bars/stem - if you crash you're likely to write them off whereas Alu ones will most likely be ok. Why not invest in a better set - perhaps Deda 100/Newton combo - lightweight and excellent. Personally I'd fo for some new wheels. I've got my eye on some FFWD F6R 190's or Reynolds SDV66C.

    A chap I was speaking to in Sigma was extremely pleased with his FFWDs - he was too heavy for the Lightweights.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • il_principe
    il_principe Posts: 9,155
    They sound decent and look the nuts. Just a tad cheaper than Lightweights as well.

    Arghh, so tempted.
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    jashburnham wrote:
    They sound decent and look the nuts. Just a tad cheaper than Lightweights as well.

    Arghh, so tempted.

    Have you checked out any reviews on weightweenies? I've always liked the look of these: http://www.rolfwheels.com/
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."

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