Speedplay Zero cleats - loctite?

duckson

Got my first clipless pedals installed onto my dhb R1 shoes last night and had a play at getting the clipping in and out sorted on the bike....pretty happy with the result though sometimes can be a little hard getting them in which i guess is probably that they just need to be worn in a bit and me get used to it....they unclip easily though (only got a few degrees of float set as i think i keep my feet pretty straight in use on normal pedals with cages).

My main concern was the 4 screws that hold each of the cleats on, getting them tight enough to stop the cleat moving side to side but not on to tight as to stop the retention spring from moving as you try to clip them in, i noticed they come with some threadlock on them (blue stuff) but would like to make sure they dont come loose/fall out with some loctite that would hold them in but i would be able to remove the screws if needs be.....any advice on what product to use?

PS i've put some Finish line Krytech dry wax lube on the cleat springs, hope this stuff is the right thing to use (it says dont use oil).
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... odelID=805

sward29

I use Loctite threadlock on the screws and have had no problems with them loosening. If you are finding the pedals difficult to get into then it may be that the screws are a little too tight, or it may just be as you say that you need to get used to them. I am always surprised as to how little the screws need tightening to hold everthing in place.

Re the Krytech, I reckon that it's pretty much spot on.

Hope you enjoy your move away from toeclips

duckson

Thanks.

I guess cus it was only now and then i was finding them hard to get into was down to getting used to them rather than them being to tight, i figure if they are to tight then i would struggle every time clipping in and it says in the instructions if they are to tight then unclipping is hard which mine arent.

Which Loctite product should i use exactly, there seems to be a multitude of products?!

http://www.onlinebearings.co.uk/loctite ... 16190.html
or
http://www.onlinebearings.co.uk/loctite ... 16189.html
or
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :IT&ih=020

or something else...

Monty Dog

Anything that is a 'medium' grade will be OK, so 222, 242 and 243, but not 270. Halfords also usually have this stuff - I find 243 in stick form great for bikes as you can easily apply the the threads of screws.

wilwil

I use Loctite 243. You only need it if the original stuff has worn off.
Tighten till you feel resistance then another quarter turn.
I use dry lube on the cleat springs every other ride.
I carry spare screws because I have heard of people losing them whilst riding.
I put Loctite on the screws that hold the cleat on to the shoe because mine have come lose.
Don't tread in mud because the cleats get blocked up making them difficult to use.
I use coffee shop covers when walking about.

I have spoken to Speedplay direct and was told that you can tighten the screws more than you think and you can use nail varnish instead of Loctite.

I had Look Keo pedals before this and this are much, much better IMO.

duckson

I'll order some 243 then.

I dont know how good the original is cus i've screwed them in, unsure on how tight is to tight i've unscrewed them a touch etc, hopefully the blue stuff on the screws will still be ok...
They are currently not up tight tight, but enough to stop the cleat moving side to side.
When i tighten them it feels like there is a touch of resistance but then a 1/4-1/2 turn later it becomes easier again, it does this with all the screws so its not like one is in wrongly plus i can tighten them so they are tightened right up if i want to (ie feel high resistance, its not going to screw in much/any more) but i thought this was to much reading the instructions.

MabBee

I've got these pedals on two bikes, and my advice is to always carry a spare set of screws. You'll find that you can't get hold of the exact length that speedplay spec -- the standard lengths of M4 bolts that are available are all 1 or 2mm longer than the ones that come with the clearts. However, I've never had a problem with the sloghtly longer screws. Also, I use hex head screws rather than the cross-head screws supplied (not that that makes any difference to the propensity for them to get lost).

TomBombadil

Hi,

I have three sets of these pedals (two steel and one titanium) on different bikes and roughly use two -three sets of cleats each year. I just tighten the screws as hard as possible. I have never managed to tighten them so the spring won't move - which is the final test.

I was cautious to start with but now can have a new set on in a few minutes.

Once on, I have only had to take them off to replace when the spring is worn (it becomes flat) or the edge has worn thin on the top metal plate. I find these really great pedals.

The only problem I have had is if I mount the cleat in the meddle of the shoe I start getting pains in the bursa at the hip. By keeping the cleat to the inside it forces the foot further away from the bottom bracketr and I don't get these pains etc (i.e. the iliotibial band (IT band) is less stretched).

Regards - Tom

wilwil

TomBombadil wrote:

Hi,

The only problem I have had is if I mount the cleat in the meddle of the shoe I start getting pains in the bursar at the hip. By keeping the cleat to the inside it forces the foot further away from the bottom bracketr and I don't get these pains etc (i.e. the illial band is less stretched).

Regards - Tom

where is the bursar?

duckson

Had another test with the pedals and noticed one of the cleats had moved so i've nipped the the screws up so i can feel they are tight without really tightening them as hard as i can!

Still can clip in and out ok and they havent moved again....i'll see how it goes.

Dont know if its much point in getting the cleat covers as i only walk on concrete 10yards to the garage to get the bike and 10 yards to the door at work!

TomBombadil

Hi - my mistake - Bursa

see: http://www.eorthopod.com/public/patient ... e_hip.html

Tom

foresthill

mine worked loose after a few thousand miles - but walking around on them had wore off the metal cleat screws facing floor - couldn't undo them, to get to retighten the one fixing base to the shoe

electric drill , new cleats and threadtite this time round

wilwil

foresthill wrote:

mine worked loose after a few thousand miles - but walking around on them had wore off the metal cleat screws facing floor - couldn't undo them, to get to retighten the one fixing base to the shoe

electric drill , new cleats and threadtite this time round

And Coffee Shop covers
http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuse ... leatcovers

foresthill

yep, i have a pair.
Wish my cleats were as shiny as they are.

I only walk small distances after getting off and don't have inclination to put them on.

Do that a few hundred times - and it's drilling time