A new bike...
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Oceanblue
Posts: 158
I’ve recently been training a lot on a turbo trainer and an old mountain bike. The good news is that I have now lost 2 stone. While that sounds impressive don’t get too excited because I have at least another 6 to lose as I weigh 20st. My wife wants to buy me a new bike as a graduation present in January and I’m now considering what to get. I want to do roads and paths but at this weight the bike would need a brave bit of strength. I like the Giant FCR’s but think it may be better to stick with the urban bikes like the Giant Escape till I lose a few stone more. I’ve up to and around £700 to spend but in this current financial climate I won't mind if I don't go to that amount. Suggestions please on a postcard… ;-)
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get a cyclocross bike, bit tougher...
specialised tricross
kona jake
that sort of thing, and check if there is a weight limit.
In fact, your best bet would be to build your own/get one built for you. At 20 stone you'll need much stronger wheels than you'll usually get so that is a much better plan. Something like a Planet-X uncle john frameset with steel forks would be a good starting point.0 -
Stick with the old mountain bike until you lose another 2-3 stones then you will have your pick of the bikes that you want. Training using a mountain bike is harder due to increased rolling resistance and weight so may be better for you in the long run.
With your current weight your choice may well be limited and you will probably not be happy with the choice you make at this stage. Who knows in 3-6 months when you have lost another 2 stone you may have some extra cash saved up and be able to splash out.
Don't forget all the kit that you will probably need too...
I spent £499.00 on my bike and have since spent at least another £200 on extras such as lights, clothing etc....there is still a lot more that I want to buy too...(at least another £1000 !!! :shock: don't tell the wife though!)17 Stone down to 12.5 now raring to get back on the bike!0 -
fuzzynavel wrote:Stick with the old mountain bike until you lose another 2-3 stones then you will have your pick of the bikes that you want. Training using a mountain bike is harder due to increased rolling resistance and weight so may be better for you in the long run.
you know how I hate to disagree with you fuzzy
but a heavier bike doesn't make it a better workout (unless you did the exact same route at the exact same speed). In my experience, heavier bikes just put more pressure on the knees. A heavier bike might be harder to get up a hill, but you could still get the same intensity of workout on a light bike, by simply riding faster.
otherwise the pro's would train with 30kg bikes and rucksacks filled with bricks.0 -
Infamous wrote:you know how I hate to disagree with you fuzzy
but a heavier bike doesn't make it a better workout (unless you did the exact same route at the exact same speed). In my experience, heavier bikes just put more pressure on the knees. A heavier bike might be harder to get up a hill, but you could still get the same intensity of workout on a light bike, by simply riding faster.
otherwise the pro's would train with 30kg bikes and rucksacks filled with bricks.
You disagree with me.....NEVER!
I would beg to differ....why do runners bother running with backpacks?....it is because when they run without the backpack they find it easier over the same route.
The same is true with bikes....I have ridden a mountain bike up a hill for ages whilst I was 17 stone with a back pack on.....I then bought a road bike, lost 2 stone and ditched the backpack and I find the hills much easier. Fitness probably has a small something to do with this but pushing the bigger mass up the hill has definately helped my power.17 Stone down to 12.5 now raring to get back on the bike!0 -
If you put 300w(lets say) through the pedals, it doesn't matter what bike you're riding, you're still getting a 300w workout. It's just that one bike will go faster than the other.
The only way a heavier bike is "harder", is when going uphill, the minimum force required to get up a hill will be higher. So you can't hide on hills.
it doesn't mean we should all ride Steel bikes up mountains at 2 mph.... when we can just ride our normal bikes on the flat at 30mph.0 -
Back on subject:
Another vote for a tricross.
Take a visit to your LBS and have a ride of one.Stumpjumper FSR 09/10 Pro Carbon, Genesis Vapour CX20 ('17)Carbon, Rose Xeon CW3000 '14, Raleigh R50
http://www.visiontrack.com0 -
FSR_XC wrote:Back on subject:
Another vote for a tricross.
Take a visit to your LBS and have a ride of one.
Thanks for returning to the subjectthanks again for all your advice folks keep it coming! 8) Interesting that no-one has affirmed the urban/straight handlebar option. Racing bars kinda turn me off as at this point I'd suggest that a lot of belly would start to get in the way using them...
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Not sure how the Giants are re weight of rider etc, but - if they were of a suitable strength - you could buy an FCR with its flat bars now, and then - when you're ready - convert it to drop handle bars. Shouldn't be too difficult to do/get done and I think the FCR frame is basically the same as the Defy (their racing model).
Well done on the weight loss though, keep it up!0 -
oceanblue, I think flat bars would actually give you less room and less hand positions, things that you want as a beginner. I don't know why anyone rides a flat bar on the road. If you like the upright position, you can get that on a drop bar bike anyway by riding on the tops. Also a drop bar bike will spread your weight more evenly than a flat bar bike.
You could always get a track bike, add some strong wheels and a couple of brakes, that would be very strong (although it would be fixed or single speed).0 -
"flat bars would actually give you less room and less hand positions,"
Not with bar ends they don't!
" I don't know why anyone rides a flat bar on the road."
More USEABLE hand positions - and invariably better braking.
" Also a drop bar bike will spread your weight more evenly than a flat bar bike."
Eh? What?d.j.
"Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."0 -
Is there anything wrong with your current bike? It seems to have worked well, even when you were heavier. How about asking the wife to save that money until you really need to get another bike? As you mentioned, in the current financial climate, do you need to spend that money now, or could saving it (and possibly adding more) be better for the next year or so?
But if you were going to get a bike I think an urban bike might be best. Something you could add mudguards and possibly a rack to so that you can get out when it is wet or just to the shops to pick up a few things. And spend some money on getting the clothing etc to allow you to go out no matter how cold or wet it is.No-one wanted to eat Patagonia Toothfish so they renamed it Chilean Sea Bass and now it's in danger of over fishing!0 -
+1 for what meagain said.
I've been riding road racing bikes for almost 30 years, and for just plain riding around for fun or commuting I much prefer a flat bar bike now. But to each his own and Oceanblue should give both a try.No-one wanted to eat Patagonia Toothfish so they renamed it Chilean Sea Bass and now it's in danger of over fishing!0 -
meagain wrote:"flat bars would actually give you less room and less hand positions,"
Not with bar ends they don't!
" I don't know why anyone rides a flat bar on the road."
More USEABLE hand positions - and invariably better braking.
" Also a drop bar bike will spread your weight more evenly than a flat bar bike."
Eh? What?
more useable? nonsense, there is one or two hand positions. Drops give you 4 or 5. Brakes may be better, but that's a small point when compared with all the negatives imo.
A drop bar puts you further forward (when on hoods and drops), so will take some weight off the back wheel and put it on the front.
and lets not forget the "aerodynamics of a brick" that you get with a flat bar.0 -
Thanks again for your thoughts and opinions just out of interest can I narrow the question:
You have £750, you are 20st (and decreasing) What would you buy? Brand and model?
(You have an 8 year old mountain bike that you have retired to your turbo trainer)0 -
"Bar ends add one extra hand position, "
Two at least I reckon - so that's 4 in total. Cannot see how drops give MORE even including the DROP itself - which if one observes MOST riders are rearely if ever used anyway!
"Brakes may be better, but that's a small point" wishing to remain alive, I consider that the most important point - not "small"!
"A drop bar puts you further forward (when on hoods and drops), so will take some weight off the back wheel and put it on the front." and also on to your arms and neck - not ideal for everyone!
Seeing as MOST folk rarely use the drop, "aerodynamics" of little relevance in the real world of every-day cycling/cyclists. In two of the multitude of claimed positions the aerodynamics are identical to a comparably set up flat bar. Yes, before you tell me, flats wider - better controla nd better open lung breathing. Drops are an historical accident.
Obviously for racing they are in general better (and they LOOK better on some bikes), but that is not relevant for 99% of riders.d.j.
"Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."0 -
On the hoods, you are further forward, therefore slightly lower and more aero. and besides, if you want to ride in the same, slow, position as a flat bar then you can, drop bars have all the same positions you have on a flat bar, plus loads more. Then there is the STI shifting, which is at least 3 hundred times better than flat bar shifting.
and whats this about braking? are there countless accidents caused by poor braking on drop bar bikes?
" and also on to your arms and neck - not ideal for everyone! "
But it can be tweaked so you can have as much weight on your hands as you want.
flat bars have no advantages at all on the road. unless you are on a budget, a MTBer, a child or an elderly woman, get a drop bar.
we're ruining this thread you know0 -
You's two are a laugh - I didn't expect WW3 from my first thread.... Its moving towards a local football forum I'm a member of... and trust me there's blood over the walls some nights.
So you two which bike would ya pick... you get one vote - brand and model please!!0 -
As ride whenever said, a cyclocross bike would be ideal. Strong and quite fast. And you will be able to swap the wheels for some 700x23c ones once you feel ready.
kona jake looks good to me.0 -
well done sir
I'm a stone behind you but determined to catch up fast!
Being doing a fair bit of reading and visiting LBS for getting a 1st road bike. got a bit less money than you for budget, but most have suggested to me something like Giant Defy 4 (shame i'm a month late for the better deals on the SCRs). you could probably go up to the 3 or 2.
They told me it's definitely going to handle my weight bar hitting big potholes and kerbs (but that'll damage bike even for the skinnies) and is one of the most comfortable road bikes so more forgiving of my current physical fitness than a lot of other bikes.
only issues are that parts will wear out faster cos of added weight on it and will need probably need to service it more regularly than a lighter rider.
not an expert though so please correct me if i'm wrong!0 -
GGGGGRRRREEEAT to hear from you hefty and even better to know that there is people out there thinking the same way and doin the same thing as I am! Thats really helpful info cheers. I love giants so I must take a look at them. I've been taking on board the comments on cyclocross bikes...
Any opinions on the this gem folks?
http://www.slanecycles.com/productdetai ... 7&catid=660 -
One vote? I'd got for a Planet-X Kaffenback. Robust enough to take some trail riding, enough space for mudguards to get you through the winter, choice of drops or flat bars (my preference would be for drops but I can see why you might prefer flat bars if that's what you're used to).0
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Think I may go with the one above in late jan... any ideas thoughts or opinions in the mean time please post them...0
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£600+ and only sora ??? get one of the other bikes mentioned in the thread.0