Mud guards

gb-locks
gb-locks Posts: 62
edited November 2008 in Road beginners
I can't afford SKS mud guards at the moment but I've seen similar Raliegh ones for £12.99, can anyone recommend others around that price range before I go out and buy the Raliegh ones.
Cheers
Gary
It's not the size of dog in the fight but the size of fight in the dog.

Comments

  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    That's about as cheap as they come, I think!
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • I 've been looking at them a bit closer they do look awful flimsey, I can't find a product review for them at all.
    Cheers
    Gary
    It's not the size of dog in the fight but the size of fight in the dog.
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Save your money until you can afford the SKS guards, You can get them for not much more than £20.
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  • doyler78
    doyler78 Posts: 1,951
    Thinking of getting the SKS mudguards myself however worried about just how hard they will be to fit. I'm going to be putting them on my Planet X Ti Sportive for the winter and will be taking them off again come spring so hoping that this can be done without a whole lot of hassle. I'm told there are eyelets for mudguards however not really sure where I should be looking for them so can't confirm that they are definitely there.
  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    First fitting of any 'grds is I find tedious, but once set up (bridge in right place, stays right length etc) then removal and re-fit a lot easier!
    Eyelets? Attached to or drilled through the drop outs! Also maybe a hole through the chainstay bridge? And use the brake mounting at the seat stay bridge.
    d.j.
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • doyler78
    doyler78 Posts: 1,951
    meagain wrote:
    First fitting of any 'grds is I find tedious, but once set up (bridge in right place, stays right length etc) then removal and re-fit a lot easier!
    Eyelets? Attached to or drilled through the drop outs! Also maybe a hole through the chainstay bridge? And use the brake mounting at the seat stay bridge.

    Thanks. Was taking a good look at my bike and it could really do with them as it is absolutely filthy. Anyway there are hole drilled on both dropouts and there is a hole drilled in the chainstay bridge so it looks like they are definitely ready for full mudguards.

    I take the SKS's linked above are just about the best for this job! Do they come with instructions telling you how to fit them or is it just one of those things we are all just supposed to know how to do? :oops:
  • dodgy
    dodgy Posts: 2,890
    You get full instructions with the SKS guards, just be patient and methodical when fitting them.
  • Thanks for that, just ordered a pair. :)
    Cheers
    Gary
    It's not the size of dog in the fight but the size of fight in the dog.
  • hammerite
    hammerite Posts: 3,408
    dodgy wrote:
    You get full instructions with the SKS guards, just be patient and methodical when fitting them.

    You do get instructions, but they're not great!!

    I spent about 90 mins trying to fit mine on Saturday evening, they were so fiddly it was silly and I still didn't manage it, ran out of time so just put race blades on for Sunday morning.

    When trying to fit them to the chainstay bridge there isn't enough clearance for the wheel to spin, so I've had to put the "rest" on the guards to sit over the chainstay bridge.

    Should I be removing the brake calipers to get the guard to attach to the seat stay bridge and front forks?
  • carl_p
    carl_p Posts: 989
    You might find that the fixing bracket on the front mudguard is fixed which will probably mean there is insufficient clearance between the tyre and the brake mounting. Just simply remove the front wheel and it will be easy.

    The rear mudguard fixing bracket will be movable so there shouldn't be a need to remove the wheel if you detach the brake mounting first.

    Make sure all the fixings are even and equi-distant before you tighten the nuts up otherwise it will rattle like hell and rub on the tyre.
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  • doyler78 wrote:
    meagain wrote:
    First fitting of any 'grds is I find tedious, but once set up (bridge in right place, stays right length etc) then removal and re-fit a lot easier!
    Eyelets? Attached to or drilled through the drop outs! Also maybe a hole through the chainstay bridge? And use the brake mounting at the seat stay bridge.

    Thanks. Was taking a good look at my bike and it could really do with them as it is absolutely filthy. Anyway there are hole drilled on both dropouts and there is a hole drilled in the chainstay bridge so it looks like they are definitely ready for full mudguards.

    I take the SKS's linked above are just about the best for this job! Do they come with instructions telling you how to fit them or is it just one of those things we are all just supposed to know how to do? :oops:

    Doyler - I've just fitted a rear mudguard on my Sportive Ti - no problems at all - it's quite straight forward. I removed the rear brake - and added the supplied clasp - then refitted the brake. Otherwise just use the eyelets for the mudguard stays. I just screwed the bottom of the guard into the drilled hole at the chainstay bridge - didn't bother using the other clip supplied - no need. Good clearance with 25's. I just need to get a front fork with eyelets now. BTW - this is with the sks guards.
  • doyler78
    doyler78 Posts: 1,951
    johnnyc71 wrote:
    doyler78 wrote:
    meagain wrote:
    First fitting of any 'grds is I find tedious, but once set up (bridge in right place, stays right length etc) then removal and re-fit a lot easier!
    Eyelets? Attached to or drilled through the drop outs! Also maybe a hole through the chainstay bridge? And use the brake mounting at the seat stay bridge.

    Thanks. Was taking a good look at my bike and it could really do with them as it is absolutely filthy. Anyway there are hole drilled on both dropouts and there is a hole drilled in the chainstay bridge so it looks like they are definitely ready for full mudguards.

    I take the SKS's linked above are just about the best for this job! Do they come with instructions telling you how to fit them or is it just one of those things we are all just supposed to know how to do? :oops:

    Doyler - I've just fitted a rear mudguard on my Sportive Ti - no problems at all - it's quite straight forward. I removed the rear brake - and added the supplied clasp - then refitted the brake. Otherwise just use the eyelets for the mudguard stays. I just screwed the bottom of the guard into the drilled hole at the chainstay bridge - didn't bother using the other clip supplied - no need. Good clearance with 25's. I just need to get a front fork with eyelets now. BTW - this is with the sks guards.

    Thanks Johnny that's good to know. Are the P35 linked in an earlier post from Ribble the guards that you are using as I find all the SKS guards on the different sites rather confusing and a huge variation in price so I do wonder if I am looking at the same thing from site to site. I will definitely go to get a set but just need to confirm that I am getting the right ones. Great bike isn't it?
  • Bought some SKSs (raceblades) last month, and I had trouble fitting them at first. However now I have worked out how to fit them properly, they're easy to replace and remove. I haven't had any trouble with them coming loose or anything. They are far from perfect but do a good job at making sure both myself and the bike are less muddy by the end of the ride.
  • Nuggs
    Nuggs Posts: 1,804
    I fitted some SKS Chromoplastics a couple of weeks ago.

    My top tip is to ignore the instructions and clip the tip off the black plastic stay covers. It's much easier just to put the stays through the screws and the holes in the guards, tighten and then pop a black plastic cap on top.
  • hammerite
    hammerite Posts: 3,408
    Nuggs wrote:
    I fitted some SKS Chromoplastics a couple of weeks ago.

    My top tip is to ignore the instructions and clip the tip off the black plastic stay covers. It's much easier just to put the stays through the screws and the holes in the guards, tighten and then pop a black plastic cap on top.

    Ah, I take it you also suffered from a case of "I wish I had three hands" when trying to follow the instructions like I did!
  • doyler78 wrote:
    johnnyc71 wrote:
    doyler78 wrote:
    meagain wrote:
    First fitting of any 'grds is I find tedious, but once set up (bridge in right place, stays right length etc) then removal and re-fit a lot easier!
    Eyelets? Attached to or drilled through the drop outs! Also maybe a hole through the chainstay bridge? And use the brake mounting at the seat stay bridge.

    Thanks. Was taking a good look at my bike and it could really do with them as it is absolutely filthy. Anyway there are hole drilled on both dropouts and there is a hole drilled in the chainstay bridge so it looks like they are definitely ready for full mudguards.

    I take the SKS's linked above are just about the best for this job! Do they come with instructions telling you how to fit them or is it just one of those things we are all just supposed to know how to do? :oops:

    Doyler - I've just fitted a rear mudguard on my Sportive Ti - no problems at all - it's quite straight forward. I removed the rear brake - and added the supplied clasp - then refitted the brake. Otherwise just use the eyelets for the mudguard stays. I just screwed the bottom of the guard into the drilled hole at the chainstay bridge - didn't bother using the other clip supplied - no need. Good clearance with 25's. I just need to get a front fork with eyelets now. BTW - this is with the sks guards.

    Thanks Johnny that's good to know. Are the P35 linked in an earlier post from Ribble the guards that you are using as I find all the SKS guards on the different sites rather confusing and a huge variation in price so I do wonder if I am looking at the same thing from site to site. I will definitely go to get a set but just need to confirm that I am getting the right ones. Great bike isn't it?

    Yep - the P35's are the ones you want. The bike is truly great - a joy to ride!
  • doyler78
    doyler78 Posts: 1,951
    Thanks have ordered the P35 now. First time with Ribble so lets hope they don't disappoint.
  • Mine have just arrived, wish me luck. :lol:
    It's not the size of dog in the fight but the size of fight in the dog.
  • All done in an hour and 20 mins, I had to drill an extra 5mm hole in the rear mudguard to bolt it to the bridge as the sliding bit provided wouldn't marry up the bolt hole in my bridge.
    It's not the size of dog in the fight but the size of fight in the dog.
  • doyler78
    doyler78 Posts: 1,951
    gb-locks wrote:
    All done in an hour and 20 mins, I had to drill an extra 5mm hole in the rear mudguard to bolt it to the bridge as the sliding bit provided wouldn't marry up the bolt hole in my bridge.

    Congrats but somehow I think I will make a meal of mine. Spent an hour this morning fighting with cassettes. In the end I realised I had missed the bottom spacer and that's why I couldn't get things shifting properly :oops: Ended up taking 2 other cassettes off to see what I was missing. Ah well they could all do with a good clean so I guess there is something good to come out of it.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    If you are riding with pals - a mudflap on the back is handy or else they will get sprayed.