Servicing threaded headset

ch1

Hello, I am having some problems with the threaded headset of my six year old hybrid. Under front braking I am getting vibrations via the stem and the steering seems to be 'indexed' (the front wheel given the chose will naturally point forward).

I was wondering if this is something I could fix myself (I'm not a trained mechanic and the scant knowledge I do have I have gleaned form the net). I am considering investing in a couple of Park headset wrenches, delve in and see if I could fix the problem or maybe it's all a bit of a false economy (perhaps I should just hand it over to my LBS).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

nicklouse

if it is indexed it needs replacing as it has been over tightened.

BUT before handing it over to the LBS have a read of parktools and have a look at what needs doing.

Horton

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=127

It's pretty straight forward - depends on how mechanically minded you are. Just make sure that if you take it apart, put everything down in sequence and the same way up so it all goes back the right way... It may just need regreasing and tightening, but check the bearings and the cups and if the cups aren't nice and shiny, it may be time to replace the headset, which I'd recommend your lbs do. It's probably worth noting that the upper bearings may look fine, but do check the lower as well as they get the majority of road spray so tend to get more knackered.

fossyant

Replacing the cups is tricky..... skill and patience !!

If it's a cartridge headset, then you need the bearings replaced, but it's probably easier to get a new headset and use just the bearings - most likely cheaper too....

Hell below zero !

A Tip
A measure to reduce the indexing is to reposition the races of the headset ,you only need to move the race on top of headtube and the bottom of headtube. Doing this means they should no longer lock/ index in a certain steering position and the indexing is greatly reduced.
If you do buy a new headset then remember you can only use one that is equal or less than the overall stack height of your current one . If its greater it will not thread on to your fork steerer.

dennisn

If you decide to replace the whole thing yourself you will need more than headset wrenches. Removing the old races CAN be done without special tools but the proper ones sure make life easier(see Park Tools). Installing new races CAN also be done
without special tools but you run the risk of "making a mess of it" to say the least without
the right tools(again Park Tools). Very easy with the right stuff.

Dennis Noward

ch1

Thank you all for all your great suggestions. The shuddering and the indexing is not too severe at the moment so I'll get some more miles out of it before I hand it in to my LBS. Although I'm still tempted to have a go myself without specialist tools.

Also what are the pros and cons of a loose bearings system compared to a cartridge bearing system found in headsets?

Thanks again.

fossyant

Loose bearings (held in a cage) mean you have to replace all the headset as the 'races' that the bearings run on are the cups..if they pit then it's new ones. Removing isn't too bad, but be careful - my original Dura Ace 7400 only lasted 18 years...... but I had to replace it with a cartridge...!!

You need a proper removal tool...ideally. Fitting cups is do-able using level surfaces, wood blocks and a careful approach. Search the web as many folk have used a long bolt and nut with loads of washers to fit one - a good idea that works and is reasonably cheap. Google "fitting threaded headsets"

With cartridge headsets the the bearings run in a self contained cartridge - so if they get rough, you just replace the bearings, no removing the cups.....very quick job..... My MTB and Training bike use cartridge already, (both threaded headsets) and these were an easy change, but I found it as cheap and easy to obtain the full lot, and just replace the worn bearing (leaving one spare) and the old lock nuts..... so have one spare bearing now for both the training bike and MTB....

What make/model etc.... is your current headset, as you do have to watch 'stack' height !!

ch1

fossyant wrote:

With cartridge headsets the the bearings run in a self contained cartridge - so if they get rough, you just replace the bearings, no removing the cups.....very quick job..... My MTB and Training bike use cartridge already, (both threaded headsets) and these were an easy change, but I found it as cheap and easy to obtain the full lot, and just replace the worn bearing (leaving one spare) and the old lock nuts..... so have one spare bearing now for both the training bike and MTB....

What make/model etc.... is your current headset, as you do have to watch 'stack' height !!

Thanks for that. I had a look at the park tools website again on overhauling a threaded headset, and it does look like major surgery some maybe it really is one for my LBS, (although it is still tempting).

fossyant wrote:

My MTB and Training bike use cartridge already, (both threaded headsets) and these were an easy change, but I found it as cheap and easy to obtain the full lot, and just replace the worn bearing (leaving one spare) and the old lock nuts..... so have one spare bearing now for both the training bike and MTB....

So do you think that going for a cartidge bearings system coupled with a good quality headset would work out cheaper in the run long?

I think my headset is unbranded since it originally came with my £250 ridegback hybrid.