Chain Cleaning...

I go through the following process to clean my chain but it still leaves a lot to be desired:-
1. Muc off with water then apply plenty of deagreaser
2. Run chain through dry rag to remove dirt
3. Use stiff brush to clean each chain ring
4. Use Cassette brush to clean cassette and front chain rings
5. Rinse with plenty water
6. Repeat if necessary
7. Allow to dry naturally then apply lube or muc off bike spray finish
No matter how hard I try I still get black sludge off my chain when running hand over chain using the above process. Can anyone recommend a better process AND a decent chain cleaning tool or setup (wiggle has several - which is best?)
Cheers
1. Muc off with water then apply plenty of deagreaser
2. Run chain through dry rag to remove dirt
3. Use stiff brush to clean each chain ring
4. Use Cassette brush to clean cassette and front chain rings
5. Rinse with plenty water
6. Repeat if necessary
7. Allow to dry naturally then apply lube or muc off bike spray finish
No matter how hard I try I still get black sludge off my chain when running hand over chain using the above process. Can anyone recommend a better process AND a decent chain cleaning tool or setup (wiggle has several - which is best?)
Cheers
0
Posts
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/w ... bike-18259
Couldn't resist: Spez. Singlecross Fixie ('08)
Summer cool: Custom Rourke, Deda 16.5 ('08)
Fit a Powerlink (sram, KMC)
Remove chain
Put in a container (i use old ice cream containers)
Add a little white spirit and swoosh chain around
Pour dirty white spirit into a large jam jar
Repeat three or four times until chain is spotless and no more grit comes out
Wipe off chain and hang up to dry
keep used white spirit in the jar and the muck settles to the bottom then reuse for next cleaning session
While chain is drying clean chainrings and sprockets.
Voila, quick, cheap, no waste, drive chain looks like new
Bit of white spirit in a bowl and use a tooth brush.
wipe down after with cloth,
Lightly re-oil (remember ---> more oil = more dirt will get stuck on chain)
Best part with this system is that it doesn't make a mess, which is a critical factor for bike maintenance to someone living in a flat.
I'm with you guys. Used to be real censored about cleaning my chain. Taking it off and soaking it in degreaser every other week or so. Waste of time and doesn't help anything that I
can see. Good wiping and re-apply lube has never seemed to create a problem. Things stay quiet and run smooth and that's what counts.
Dennis Noward
My chains do 3-4,000 miles with little attention, and are only replaced to avoid breakages. The chain gets a thorough link-by-link rub from a rag when I think it's really necessary. I also run the rag between cassette rings and give the chainrings and jockey wheels a brief wipe. Only if it's caked in stuff does any warm, soapy water get used first.
One of the best ways to keep a chain in good nick is to use mudguards in the wet.
Clean n' go - leave chain on and wipe down / lube as necessary
Keen or what - remove / clean thoroughly / relube
Personally, i enjoy the maintenance and like to see the drive chain sparkling after a good clean even if it only lasts until the next ride
Take it off, don't take it off. Degrease it, don't degrease it.
The only firm recommendation seems to be not to leave the chain sitting in degreaser for too long.
So, a big help.
Couldn't resist: Spez. Singlecross Fixie ('08)
Summer cool: Custom Rourke, Deda 16.5 ('08)
I use Rock & Roll lube and it goes on clean but is black after a short while, but I don't know that this means "bad" or "poor lube". it's just black.
dennis noward
Suggest trying Pro Gold. You may be surprised (I was). Not just me, here is what bike maintenance guy on the road bike rider newsletter wrote about it
"Chain lube. The best I've ever found is ProGold's ProLink ($8 for a 4-oz. bottle). This thin golden lube has proven to be waterproof, very long lasting and runs clean as clean can be when applied according to instructions. In my experience, ProLink can extend chain life by 2-3 times. Pretty amazing."
1 - "Liberally", use a degreaser on the Chain, Chainrings, Cassette and jockey wheels (with a rag and brush). The idea being to loosen off any and all grit on the drivetrain. 2 - Use a hose (carefully) to wash all of the censored off. Be a bit cautious around BB etc. 3 - The drivetrain then is essentially "spotless", clean and silver (but soaked in water). 4 - Then, dry off any excess water. 5 - Leave the rest to dry for a bit. 6 - Finally, use TF2 Teflon on certain bits and Finish Line Cross Country on the chain.
I should add, I tend to replace my chain every 4 or 6 months
http://www.shopwiki.co.uk/detail/?q=Cha ... in+Cleaner
If you like your bike clean, which I go through phases of being fussy about, I think you are doomed to dissatisfaction with the chain. If you just want it to run well, then the dirt doesnt seem to make much difference - probably because there often isnt much at the points that really count.
Powerlinks though - I am new to them and just cant get the knack.
I have to backtrack with suggesting using those wet wipes. They were ok when I relubed straight after but the other week I did a clean and promptly had a bad cold and left the bike for a week. When I got it out again the chain was absolutely knackered, covered in censored and looked corroded to hell.
Hope no one else tried them.
Although whenever I clean the chain I always appply some GT85 and then lube the chain the next day.