Anyone Bother Adjusting Forks?

Serious question - I'm planning to upgrade my forks and I notice that many models have a range of adjustment between say 85mm and 130mm. The method of adjusting also seems to be either v easily done on the fly with the U-turn types of mechanism or alternatively needs to be done by dismantling the shocks and inserting different spacers (obvioulsy not done on the fly).
I can see the benfit of locking out forks for climbs but do people find it useful to be able to change fork travel?
Really my question is should I spend more on a U-turn mechnism to be able to adjust on the fly or in practice, once a fork is set do most people just leave it as is?
I can see the benfit of locking out forks for climbs but do people find it useful to be able to change fork travel?
Really my question is should I spend more on a U-turn mechnism to be able to adjust on the fly or in practice, once a fork is set do most people just leave it as is?
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To be honest, Rock-Shox U-turn system is a bit redundant in its function - I can't tell the difference between 125mm and 122mm! For that reason in my mind, Fox's Talas system is far better - you have three settings, long, medium and short travel.
Just as a footnote, the type of fork that you can adjust travel by adding a spacer internally aren't really "adjustable" as such in that you can't adjust them on the fly. They're really fixed travel in that they actually stay the same length axle-to-crown, all you're doing is adjusting the length of the stroke. A true adjustable travel fork will actually extend or retract.
Help for Heroes
JayPic
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I 2nd that.I always shorten my travel when climbing etc and lock-out is useful on tarmac.
Boardman CX Comp
The internal spacer does alter the the fork length! You are removing a part of the push rod assembly under the top out spring, so the fork will extend a different amount.
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
Carbon 456
456 lefty
Pompino
White Inbred
One really good thing with the Fox Talas fork is you can actually adjust travel whilst moving (plus it's quite cool to see them extend by themselves at the flick of a switch).
Only downsides I've found are the cost of the forks and sometimes the Talas lever can become stiff if mud gets into the top of the fork.
I've bought a new bike....ouch - result
Can I buy a new bike?...No - no result
I have messed about with it on the garden.
Probably due to the faff involved with actually doing it :shock:
Not much point getting a fork that extends to 130mm when the bike suits a 100mm fork best.
I went through this when getting a new fork for my Hardrock.....ended up with a coily RS Tora in fixed 100mm. I only use the lockout commuting to work...
H.G. Wells.
I have no idea how to use the rebound and when, I have not many problems.
But hey, they are quite new,.
http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af92 ... 010735.jpg
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
As i live in the Valleys, I'm constantly twiddling, but that's why i bought adjustable forks.
Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails
http://makeovermiracles.org/
If you can do a whole ride with em locked and not notice tany appreciable difference then I wonder how much is just a cunning plan to get you to spend an extra £100 for Reba team as opposed to Reba SL for example.
I'm not saying that there isn't a difference but it seems to be a pretty good example of diminishing returns (and a slice of clever marketing) from my, admittedly inexperienced, point of view.
I did say "depending on what type of riding you do" I'm 41 years old, i don't do 40mph down hill jaunts, i don't do jumps off 6ft drop offs, what i do do is days out through forest tracks and hill sides at an easy pace, even when i encounter the rough stuff i take it at such a pace that the forks are of no importance.
The problem is you can't buy a decent mountain bike without this type of fork but you are pushed into buying them regardless, so, my type of riding doesn't warrant this type of fork so why should i pay for something i don't want, i'm willing to bet that the majority of hardtail riders don't actually need this type of fork, down hill on the other hand is a totally different matter.
http://makeovermiracles.org/
Most forks have blow off valves anyway, so will act as normal on a decent bump.
But if you are riding very smooth paths, you might as well get a rigid fork. Plenty of bikes come from new this way (hybrids).
VOODOO CANZO
Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
The internal adjustment on some forks eg Reba, Pike is useful for fettling the bike to better suit your riding style, that's all. Changing the travel is quite a lengthy process and NOT one to be approached lightly, but you could perhaps get it done during servicing for example. I recently changed mine for 85 to 100 mm travel and noticed an improvement for general trail riding - and yes, it did increase the length.
The U-turn principle is most useful if you want to quickly set up your shock before setting out on different types of trail (assuming you know them well enough to predict) by selecting more or less travel. You can change mid-ride (for example before a long DH section) but you couldn't really call it on-the-fly.
For true on-the-fly adjustment go for the Fox Talas forks (or get a Bionicon bike).
Marv
Trek 8000 ZR XC hardtail.