2002 Kona Hahanna.... is it worth replacing/upgrading?

Kadinsky

I've got a 2002 Kona Hahanna that I hadn't used at all for the last few years (went off to Uni; the bike stayed at home), but have started to use it everyday to get to/from work recently. Most of the journey is on-road, but with some gravel/dirt roads thrown into the route too.

First of all, how much would I have to look at spending to get a better bike than I already have (not that there's anything 'wrong' with the bike, but if it's not going to cost much to get something a lot better then I'd like to take advantage of it)? I suppose the other question to go with that is how much do you reckon the bike is worth (offsetting the cost of a replacement)?

The other route is upgrading the bike, particularly to make it more road orientated. What should I be looking at to accomplish this (Ie. forks, tyres etc.)? Are the parts on the bike as standard good enough, or known to be poor performers?

Any advice gratefully received.

supersonic

It was the budget Kona back then. Nice frame, but generally budget parts and forks.

To make it more road oriented, simply fit lighter, slicker tyres, and maybe bar ends. I'd give it a good service, and if too many parts need replacing then think about a new bike. New rigid forks will shed a fair bit of weight too.

Kadinsky

Well, it's had a service and it's amazing what a difference it's made. I think I'd be better putting a bit of money into upgrading this bike instead of spending loads of money on a new one. The only thing really bothering me now is the fork; it's just too stiff/bouncy. I don't really want a rigid fork, but I definitely am on a budget... so what's going to give me the best performance to cost ratio?

supersonic

Modern budget forks are much better off road - stiffer structures, more features, controlled - but heavier. A 100 quid fork is liable to be over 5 pounds in weight.

You also need to make sure it has the right mounts for your brakes. I take it you have a standard threadless headset too?

A rigid carbon fork can add comfort, and low low weight.

Big Red S

What kind of budget are you on?

You can get some forks for under £100, but they're unlikely to be markedly better than what's on teh bike at the minute.
£150ish is where forks start being worth buying aftermarket, but the best performance:cost ratio is normally around the more competetive £250-£300 price point.

Kadinsky

Threadless headset and linear-pull brakes (I assume they're all the same size-wise?).

The thing putting me off rigid forks is my route to work; it's only short (1.5 miles-ish), but on pothole-rich country & gravel roads. I'd rather have something a bit heavier and more comfortable than vice-versa. Plus, now I'm getting more use out of my bike and I'm fairly local to some good off-road tracks I'll probably take it up as a hobby, exploring the more demanding terrain.

Big Red S

Yeah, there's been little change in standards since 2002.
There have been things like 1.5" headsets, but they're the exception rather than the norm.

Kadinsky

Well I was thinking about £150 budget wise, but with Xmas coming up (and my birthday a week later) I might be able to stretch a bit further if I wait and it's worth the cost.

EDIT: Actually, would it really be worth spending £150-£200 on some new forks on this bike, or would I be better selling it for what I can (what would it be worth; £150ish?) and spending £400ish on a new bike? Sure the forks wouldn't be as-good as after-market ones, but surely everything would be a bit better (better enough to justify the extra £100ish anyway) than what I've got currently?

Torres

Toras with lockout?
Decent entry level forks, can be stiffened up for the road. By no means light, but gives you versitility.

Big Red S

Kadinsky wrote:

Sure the forks wouldn't be as-good as after-market ones, but surely everything would be a bit better (better enough to justify the extra £100ish anyway) than what I've got currently?

That depends on what's on the bike at the minute, and what kind of condition it's in.

Can you post up a pic/spec list of it?

Kadinsky

Condition wise it's pretty good; like I said it's not been used for most of its life, and it's just had a service. Just a couple scratches on the brake lever/rear derailleur after a fall.

From BikePedia:

Pic

Frame & Fork

Frame Construction - TIG-welded
Frame Tubing Material - Chromoly main triangle/hi-tensile steel rear stays
Fork Brand & Model - Suntour XCC
Fork Material - Aluminum, single triple-clamp crown


Components

Brakeset - Tektro 829A brakes, Shimano EZ-fire levers
Shift Levers - Shimano Acera EZ Fire Plus
Front Derailleur - Shimano Acera X
Rear Derailleur - Shimano Acera-X
Crankset - Sun Race FC-M55, 22/32/42 teeth
Pedals - Wellgo
Bottom Bracket - VP cartridge
Rear Cogs - 8-speed, 12 - 30 teeth
Chain - Shimano CN-IG31, 1/2 x 3/32"
Seatpost - Kona Thumb
Saddle - Velo Plush
Handlebar - Kona Riser
Handlebar Stem - Kona Control
Headset - 1 1/8" threadless Aheadset STS

Wheels

Hubs - Front: Joe's QR, Rear: Shimano QR
Rims - Strong
Tires - 26 x 1.95" Tioga Factory XC
Spoke Brand - Stainless steel, 14ga. (2.0mm) straight gauge
Spoke Nipples - Brass nipples

passout

Keep it soley for commuting. Service it, get appropriate tyres and don't worry about suspension (go rigid?). Furnish it with appropriate lights, guards, locks, racks etc. May cost you a bit to start with - but think budget parts. If you want to take up more serious Mountain Biking or any other cycling genre then consider a second bike - a work bike and play bike?