Flip-Flop hub..

Brewsterwmb Posts: 145
edited October 2008 in Road general
Evening :D

May seem like a silly question. But I've just picked up my new wheel from my LBS who built my new wheel using a Surly hub on a Mavic opensport rim. Its to go with my Cross-Check.

I asked for a flip-flop hub as I currently have a singlespeed freewheel hub. Wanted to used a fixed this winter for training and for (hopefully) pure enjoyment!

Question - There are no cogs, so I need to buy two? One each side. Currently running a 42/16. And secondly, how can I tell which side is fixed and which is freewheel? As it feels very fixed to me both sides (without cogs that is)

Thoughts :?:
“Look where you want to go. Not where you are going”


  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    If you look at the hub one side has two threads on it, one slightly smaller than the other, this will be the fixed side where you screw a sprocket on and then a lockring, the other side will have one thread and this side is where you screw the freewheel without a lockring.

    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • redvee!

    I think that does help! So I need some new sprockets and lockring!? Stick at 16 for now?

    And getting that chain dead straight? Any tips?

    Many thanks :)
    “Look where you want to go. Not where you are going”
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Gonna pass the hard Qs onto somebody else, but I guess you mean chainline? You might have to play around with the chainring positioning and move it inboard of the spider.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    You need one sprocket with lockring for fixed, and one singlespeed freewheel for free

    Ideally for chainline you play with BB axle lengths but you can just space out the chainring a bit.
  • meagain
    meagain Posts: 2,331
    "And getting that chain dead straight?"

    With a double-sider possible that one or both will be a bit of a compromise depending on e.g. depth of shoulder on the fixed sprocket. If so, probably better for the "worse" chainline to be on the freewheel side. That said, +/- 2mm out is not IMO significant. Indeed, although I have always been more relaxed than most about perfect chainlines, a little surprised to find that at least one major bike brander doesn't seem to think that c.5mm IMperfect an issue!
    "Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."
  • A useful bodge for slightly out chain line is to use a 1/8in chain on 3/32in chain ring and sprocket/freewheel.