Embarrassing Bike Questions

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  • Deadeye Duck
    Deadeye Duck Posts: 419
    When out and about and you need to pump up an inner tube after the PF made a guest appearence, how much do you pump up the tyres if you haven't got a pressure guage on you? Do you just pump untill you can't push the tyres in at all with your thumb, untill your arm hurts, or something else?

    Since I'd imagine that It'd be incredibly hard to reach 110psi in a hand pump, I'm guessing you just pump untill you feel like you're arms going to drop off, then stop?
    Schwinn Fastback Comp : FCN 5
    The Flying Scot : FCN 515q6cuv.png
    My Life, My Bike & My Xbox
  • biondino
    biondino Posts: 5,990
    I can only get to about 70psi with my hand pump if I pump till I colllapse, which is fine for riding (maybe slightly ups the chance of a pinch flat and is probably slower, but hey). There is no chance in hell you'll make the tyre explode through your sheer manly pumping.
    My Focus / My Bob Jackson
    Blog (incl. bikes)
  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,715
    I have a decent hand pump, so I do it up as hard as I can, which is around 100psi.
  • crankycrank
    crankycrank Posts: 1,830
    Do a practice pump at home and count the strokes it takes to get whatever pressure you want or at least find out what pressure you're capable of pumping to. I'll usually need a beer and a nap after trying to get to 100psi with my mini.
  • Deadeye Duck
    Deadeye Duck Posts: 419
    Cheers guys.

    two more questions for you:

    1. the little bit at the top of the valve on the back tube is slighly bent, which I think may have been cause by my old pump having a swivelly head. Is it possible for me to straighten it out because if I push it back over/put on a pump, it starts letting out air of it own accord (without me pushing it in at all, just back over into the middle). Will i just end up making it worse trying yo push it back over? I have a spare tube in my saddlebag, so I can always swap it out if need be, and get myself a new spare.

    2. the tread on the front tyre is none existant in the middle. It was like that when I got the bike (or very near to it) as I've only done 50 miles since getting it. Should I be looking to change it straight away, or will it have a bit more life in it before it explodes at 30mph? If looking to change it, what tyres should I look at (700x23, currently a vittoria something or other on the front, with a michelin dual compoud number on the back)?
    Schwinn Fastback Comp : FCN 5
    The Flying Scot : FCN 515q6cuv.png
    My Life, My Bike & My Xbox
  • tardington
    tardington Posts: 1,379
    Deadeye Duck wrote:
    1. the little bit at the top of the valve on the back tube is slighly bent, which I think may have been cause by my old pump having a swivelly head. Is it possible for me to straighten it out because if I push it back over/put on a pump, it starts letting out air of it own accord (without me pushing it in at all, just back over into the middle). Will i just end up making it worse trying yo push it back over? I have a spare tube in my saddlebag, so I can always swap it out if need be, and get myself a new spare.

    I can never get mine in straight :oops: but it didn't seem to cause any problems!
  • biondino
    biondino Posts: 5,990
    Several of mine are a little bent - doesn't seem to leak or make a difference, though I guess it will be more fragile, and Presta valves are easy enough to break as it is!

    Re the tyre - so it's genuinely worn, not just slick? If it's a really old and worn tyre it will likely be full of cuts and nicks which should be more of a concern. Also, if it's very worn then it's likely any fabric or kevlar belts under the rubber will begin to show - if this is happening then yes, replace it. If you can tell us the exact model of tyre then we can tell you if it should be slick or not. My Ultremos are perfectly slick all around and they stick to the tarmac like billy-o.

    Tyres are great fun to upgrade, though - even the very best ones are sub £40 and they make your bike look and feel that much more bling!
    My Focus / My Bob Jackson
    Blog (incl. bikes)
  • Deadeye Duck
    Deadeye Duck Posts: 419
    I'ts got visible treads on the sides still, but they've been worn down on the middle bit. I'll see if I can find the model number, I know the guy swapped out the back one for the michelin jobby, but am wondering if the front was the standard tyre that was on it when he bought it.

    I'll update this post with the model number/type of vittoria tyre when I find it.

    EDIT: just had a quick look at the vittoria page, and it seems most their tyres have only got tread on the sides... :oops:
    Schwinn Fastback Comp : FCN 5
    The Flying Scot : FCN 515q6cuv.png
    My Life, My Bike & My Xbox
  • intokyo
    intokyo Posts: 19
    I think I overshifted, going down from 3-1 approaching the lights. I have the Shimano Gripshift rotary shifters, not sure what Shimano call them. Now the shifter goes past 1.

    Can't get the biggest ring in the back at all. Is it a cable issue or a derailleur fix?
  • fwgx
    fwgx Posts: 114
    I went out on my new bike int he rain last night and when I came back the rims of the wheels were completely black from the brake pads. It washed off easily with some water, but is it normal for the brake pads to leave a lot of deposits on the rims?
    Felt Z75 (2015)
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    It's probably the guff and muddy water from the road.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • ratherbeintobago
    ratherbeintobago Posts: 636
    I've acquired a spare set of wheels - would I be better to store them with tyres on & inner tubes inflated, or would I be better to store them as bare rims?

    Thanks

    RBIT
    On twitter
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    Depends on how you store them, I think. I store mine in a bike bag, tyres on (but deflated). if you don'thave a bike bag, I'd stick the tyres on to stop the rims getting scuffed/suffering nicks.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • ratherbeintobago
    ratherbeintobago Posts: 636
    I don't know if this has been asked before, but is there a good way of putting tyres on to avoid pinch-puncturing the inner tube (done 2x in a week on the same wheel :-/)?

    Andy
    On twitter
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    IME, it depends on the tyre. Some you can use your fingers, some are a bit stiffer and I find I need the extra help a tyre lever gives me.

    What I tend to do is pump the tyre up a little to get it inside the tyre, get the tyre onto the rim with my fingers as far as possible, and then very carefully feed the remainder of the tyre back onto the rim by leading with my left thumb, an inch or two ahead of the lever (being held in my right hand).

    God bless you if you can make head or tail of that. :)
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • alexalexalex
    alexalexalex Posts: 10
    H i everyone, brand newbie here with a few questions, probably got enough to start my own thread but thought i'd start here first. I've just been given a Raleigh Trail Pioneer 4000 (i think thats what its called - old bike anyway) and i am intending to ride to work everyday and generally stop using the car as much.
    The bike is in useable condition but does have a few points i would like to sort and that's where you guys (hopefully) come in

    First off the rear brake lever is very slow to return to its starting position when i let go of it. The brakes work ok and the pads are worn but you can still see the grooves on them so can anyone suggest what would be causing this and how to fix it? they are V brakes and thats about all i know (can upload pics if helpful) The front is also a little slow to return to starting position but not as bad as the rear

    Second problem is to do with changing gears. Basically its not very smooth. I have those twist shift things on the handlebars and when i twist the one to move the front derailleur it seems to have problems locking on. also, it doesnt seem to be aligned properly and i have to twist it past the number to get it to change cog - see 03012010050.th.jpg

    Lastlly (for now) there are bits of rust on the handle bars and other places, can i just file this off with a wire brush? will this leave the metal bare and unprotected? obvioulsy rust is no good so how would you all go about dealing with this?

    Thanks all and sory about the essay of a first post, i'm just keen and clueless
  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,715
    First 2 problems both sound like old gunked up cables. Replace them and the problems will probably magically fix themselves. Buy the cables from your local bike shop and they'll probably fit them for you. Take a pack of biscuits and they definitely will.

    Regarding the rust: Assuming it's just surface rust, you can just brush it off. However, if metal is left exposed, it will rust up again. Slap a coat of paint over it to at least hinder the rust in returning.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Sachs Waveys in yellow. Much easier to change the cables than Srams earlier efforts.
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • alexalexalex
    alexalexalex Posts: 10
    whyamihere wrote:
    First 2 problems both sound like old gunked up cables. Replace them and the problems will probably magically fix themselves.

    ok thats good if its just old cables but to me (and my untrained eyes) the cables look to be in fair condition, can i not clean/regrease/whatever you do to give them a new lease of life again or is it more hassle than its worth?

    i would like to learn basic/regular bike maintenance for myself so don't mind getting my hands dirty
  • garrynolan
    garrynolan Posts: 560
    Coriander wrote:
    Do I find it so difficult to use the drops on my bike because I'm totally inexperienced in doing so or because my saddle is at about the same height as my handlebars?

    Try being my shape - 5' 4" ,10 1/2 stone (not fat), 27" inside leg, normal torso (same as pops and he's 5' 9"), arms above elbow way shorter than lower arm. Tried to ride my old bike with high saddle/low handlebars. Complete failure due to not reaching pedals even when at high point of revolution! Always thought my position was normal and everone else was being a show-off :D !
    Visit Ireland - all of it! Cycle in Dublin and know fear!!
    exercise.png
  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,715
    alexalexalex wrote:
    whyamihere wrote:
    First 2 problems both sound like old gunked up cables. Replace them and the problems will probably magically fix themselves.

    ok thats good if its just old cables but to me (and my untrained eyes) the cables look to be in fair condition, can i not clean/regrease/whatever you do to give them a new lease of life again or is it more hassle than its worth?

    i would like to learn basic/regular bike maintenance for myself so don't mind getting my hands dirty
    You may be able to save the outers. Get a can of spray lube with a tube nozzle and liberally squirt it through the outer cable, then floss an inner cable through to remove any gunk. Inners cost about a quid and are more likely to be shot, they're not worth saving.
  • alexalexalex
    alexalexalex Posts: 10
    whyamihere wrote:
    Get a can of spray lube with a tube nozzle and liberally squirt it

    ok thts about all i understood there - outers, inners, flossing, not sure about what all those are. can you enlighten me or point me towards someone/somewhere i can learn?

    thanks
  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,715
    Ah, sorry.

    Outer cables - The black thick bits of cable. These are different for brakes and gears, so make sure you keep them separate when you remove them.

    Inner cables - These are the thinner wires, they run inside the outer cables. Again, different for brakes and gears, but the difference is obvious.

    Flossing - Like using dental floss. Instead of moving the dental floss in and out between your teeth, move the inner cable in and out through the outer cable, having a similar effect.
  • alexalexalex
    alexalexalex Posts: 10
    whyamihere wrote:
    Ah, sorry.

    Outer cables - The black thick bits of cable. These are different for brakes and gears, so make sure you keep them separate when you remove them.

    Inner cables - These are the thinner wires, they run inside the outer cables. Again, different for brakes and gears, but the difference is obvious.

    Flossing - Like using dental floss. Instead of moving the dental floss in and out between your teeth, move the inner cable in and out through the outer cable, having a similar effect.

    much better thank you, i will try and pick up a can of lube tomorrow and see if i can floss my cables happy again

    while we're all here asking silly obvious questions, on the front wheel there is what i believe to be a contactless dynamo: 03012010052f.th.jpg
    the light holder on the handlebars says "cat eye". would i be able to get this back into use by just getting a light to attach to it? or would it mean buying a whole new set up and not bothering keeping the one already there?
  • whyamihere
    whyamihere Posts: 7,715
    That, sir, is a computer sensor and magnet. The bracket on the handlebar is for a Cateye computer. ;)
  • alexalexalex
    alexalexalex Posts: 10
    Bugger, thought i might be able to save myself some pennies on some fancy new lights.
    Dont really need a computer as i'm using nokia sports tracker on my phone (hours of fun by the way - not just using it but boring the mrs with all that 'interesting' data afterwards :D )
  • guitarguy
    guitarguy Posts: 18
    possibly very stupid, but I'm in need of a new bb. How do i know what size to get?
  • el_presidente
    el_presidente Posts: 1,963
    guitarguy wrote:
    possibly very stupid, but I'm in need of a new bb. How do i know what size to get?

    measure the old one
    <a>road</a>
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    el_presidente wrote:
    guitarguy wrote:
    possibly very stupid, but I'm in need of a new bb. How do i know what size to get?

    measure the old one

    You will need to know what type it is, i.e. square taper, ISIS etc.

    You will then need to determine the width of the bottom bracket shell, axle length and thread type.

    Sheldon is, as ever, a good source of info.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}

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