truvativ crank removal which was is loosen which way is tigt

johnbhoy
johnbhoy Posts: 61
edited September 2008 in MTB workshop & tech
MARIN ROCKY RIDGE 07 WITH GIGAXPIPE BOTTOM BRACKET AND TRUVATIV INTEGRATED CRANK

SEE HERE FOR DETAILS

http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/200 ... 5-r5-e.pdf

I am trying to loosen the bolt on the non drive side arm so that i can remove the crank from the bottom bracket.... cannot for the life of me get it to move. before i start applying extreme force what way is loosen and what way is tighten.... Does not seem to tell you in the documentation ??

cheers

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    normal thread. you may need to unlock the lock/self-extracting collar a bit. (but do not remove it).
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • thank you... but excuse my ignorance what is the self extracting collar you are referring to.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    the bigger allen key hole ie not the bolt.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • right got the bolt off but now i cannot seem to slide the spindle out of the bottom brackets. its getting stuck just before half way through.

    ANy suggestions. I am in process of uploading photos to show what i mean.... Its like the spindle is cataching on something but its solid. its not moving at all. have even hit it with rubber mallet and its not shifting.
  • 10092008023ek6.th.jpg

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    should i be using force t get it out. looks to me like i will need to remove the bottom bracket to get it out but was looking to avoid that if at all possible

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  • BFI (Brute Force and Ignorance) ie hit it hard, it should just come out now, you have done the hard work. some gentle persuasion should help it out.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    hell those pics are small.

    it seems that you have started to undo the non drive side bearing?

    put it back in and use more force as above.

    But again hard to really see what you have done.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • ahh its fooked. managed to get it off.

    Discovered the reason why the bottom bracket was making a horrible crunching type noise though.The perspex on the bottom bracket its cracked and part of it is stting up. . fooker. anyway down to the LBS i go.
  • Right last chance salon here. went to LBS and bought a race face x-type bottom bracket on the previso i would check if it was compatible with my bike and if not i would return it for refund.

    this is the exact spec of bike i have
    http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/id35491.html

    and this is the bottom bracket i bought
    http://www.raceface.com/components/bb/48/

    can anyone forsee any compatibility problems with this.

    cracnk is truvativ fire x

    thanks.
  • cjw
    cjw Posts: 1,889
    Haven't read your links, sorry, but if you have a GXP Truvativ BB, only Truvativ cranks will fit, so your Race Face will fit the frame, but your cranks will not fit the BB.
    London to Paris Forum
    http://cjwoods.com/london2paris

    Scott Scale 10
    Focus Izalco Team
  • now have them both in front of me..they look identical. only difference i can see is that the non drive side of the gxp one has a small lip which catches the spindle so its sits in place. the raceface one does not.

    What i am thinkin is . can i mix and match.IE use the race face bottom brackt but use the non drive side of the gxp bb. everything seems to fit together just dandy.... is this wrong ???
  • GXP bottom brackets have use a collar on the non driveside bearing to step down the internal diameter and i think they are slightly wider due to this. I theory I guess provided you can get the collar off the old one you could fathom something that would work.

    Seems alot of effort though when GXP b/b only cost £20 at most
  • cjw
    cjw Posts: 1,889
    Yes indeed. But I think what he is doing is to use the Race Face drive side and GXP non-drive. Should work, however...

    You now have one new set of bearings and one old set of bearing. You will have to buy twice as many BBs in future (if you stick with the set up) everytime one wears out you buy a whole new BB (either GXP or Race Face) and only use half of it :lol:

    Of course, next time something wears it will probably be the GXP non=-drive side, so you'll need a new GXP full set - and might as well replace the whole of the GXP set.

    Why not buy the correct BB now though? I replace mine every (probably) 6-9 months as the GXP BB seem to be disposable items :(
    London to Paris Forum
    http://cjwoods.com/london2paris

    Scott Scale 10
    Focus Izalco Team
  • Yeah to be honest. It was more a case of panic stations yesterday . Use my bike to commute so not having it was going to be a pain in the proverbial not having it for today.

    I took the bb back to bike shop today for refund and will order a gxp one online. Just fitted my broken bb back onto bike last night. At end of day it still works. Its just got a bit of play in it and the tube is cracked and it does make a slight cruncing noise but hey how it works just now. Not fusssed If I am causing it more damage just now as its gonna be replaced in a week anyway.

    I think technically what i was suggesting would have owrked fine but as cjw pointed out. it would be more costly in long run.... i was concerned over the sleeve being cracked but guy in bike shop said yoiu could even get away with not using the sleeve although this would not be good in long run.

    Pluse the gxp £18 online... the raceface one was practically doubel the price at £34.99

    Was kinda wamting to get it all done yesterday as well as was replacing rear mech and chain. so in my head made sense to do it all at once. Went from busted sram x9 rear mech to xt rear deraillier.... super plush shifting now let me tell you.