New brake purchase considerations...advice please
I'd like to upgrade the brakes on my "commuting" bike, which were the ones supplied with the bike, a Claude Butler Roubaix Triple 2007 . The details of what came with the bike are scant, simply described by the company blurb as "Alloy dual pivot long reach design with quick release cam system."
I've measured them and think a 57mm brake reach would be correct, and from looking at Sheldon Brown http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ra-e.html I think that this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=27807 would fit the bill as it comes with a 57mm reach and is affordable enough.
But I'm not sure. I ride with mudguards on, would there be any additional considerations before I place an order? Does a standard brake do the job (go over mudguards), or something with a wider throw needed?
The levers are marked as Shimano Sora Flight Deck Triple.
My reason for upgrading is that often enough I've found braking with these in the rain is painfully slow, and I never really feel like I'm stopping with any power, more than once getting a fright as I've come close to failing to stop in time for traffic, unlike with my other bike which I now prefer to ride in the rain as a result, and which also has 'guards on.
I've measured them and think a 57mm brake reach would be correct, and from looking at Sheldon Brown http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ra-e.html I think that this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=27807 would fit the bill as it comes with a 57mm reach and is affordable enough.
But I'm not sure. I ride with mudguards on, would there be any additional considerations before I place an order? Does a standard brake do the job (go over mudguards), or something with a wider throw needed?
The levers are marked as Shimano Sora Flight Deck Triple.
My reason for upgrading is that often enough I've found braking with these in the rain is painfully slow, and I never really feel like I'm stopping with any power, more than once getting a fright as I've come close to failing to stop in time for traffic, unlike with my other bike which I now prefer to ride in the rain as a result, and which also has 'guards on.
'Twas Mulga Bill, from Eaglehawk, that caught the cycling craze....
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Try changing the pads first - these normally make the biggest difference.
More expensive callipers normally come with better pads, but the performance increase is often (incorrectly) attributed to the calipers themselves. Obviously better callipers will be better (sic), but it's more about the pads.0 -
redddraggon wrote:Try changing the pads first - these normally make the biggest difference.
More expensive callipers normally come with better pads, but the performance increase is often (incorrectly) attributed to the calipers themselves. Obviously better callipers will be better (sic), but it's more about the pads.
I've tried some different ones, didn't seem to make that much of a difference...'Twas Mulga Bill, from Eaglehawk, that caught the cycling craze....0 -
redddraggon wrote:Try changing the pads first - these normally make the biggest difference.
More expensive callipers normally come with better pads, but the performance increase is often (incorrectly) attributed to the calipers themselves. Obviously better callipers will be better (sic), but it's more about the pads.
Hmm, the brakes that came with the bike are according to Falcon Cycles the same make as what is on by better braking bike, he recommended the same, better pads.
Could you suggest some? This is what I have on at the moment: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... delID=2951'Twas Mulga Bill, from Eaglehawk, that caught the cycling craze....0 -
Koolstop Salmons.0
