would this make a MASSIVE difference.

gematkinson1
gematkinson1 Posts: 69
edited August 2008 in Workshop
If i went from a compact double of 50/36 to a double at 53/42 ? i have a 12/25 casette at the back.... forgive me im not too clever at understanding gearing :-)
ie will it be mega harder for me to cycle ?

any thoughts appreciated as im looking at purchasing a new crankset
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Comments

  • unclemalc
    unclemalc Posts: 563
    You'd have to work out the gearing ratios if you want specific details but in general you'll find yourself either in the 42 most of the time, or at the top end of the cassette, if you want to keep your 50/36-related cadence. You might end up double-shifting between chain-ring and cog to keep happy. Depends what range of gears you were used to.
    Why did you decide on this change - most folks go the other way... I'd work out what ratios you used when on the 50/36 and then work out where they or their nearest would fall if on a 53/42 to see if its comfy.
    Spring!
    Singlespeeds in town rule.
  • unclemalc
    unclemalc Posts: 563
    http://sheldonbrown.com/glossary.html
    sorry gem - try this link for the gearing
    Spring!
    Singlespeeds in town rule.
  • richa
    richa Posts: 1,632
    The 42 cog is a 17% higher gear than the 36.

    52/39 might be a better option.
    Rich
  • wildmoustache
    wildmoustache Posts: 4,010
    Double at 53/42 is what I have on my TT bike and for that appllication it's excellent. Very small front jump and the 42 allows you some quite big gears.

    I wouldn't want it for anything else though. It's far too big a small ring for hilly riding for me at any rate.

    I like the 50-36 combo you have already.

    Depends how strong you are, and what you want it for ... though if you're stronger than me than you're and elite standard female for sure. :lol:
  • unclemalc
    unclemalc Posts: 563
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

    ...even better :D
    Spring!
    Singlespeeds in town rule.
  • 16simon
    16simon Posts: 154
    Like other people have said, 53/39 would probably be better.

    I use 53/42 with a 12-23 cassette, I haven't had any problems on climbs but my bike is pretty light and I'm a skinny 2nd cat racer.

    I used a 50/34 compact last season, I didn't like the 34 at all, far too spinny, even when I was taking it easy. The 50 felt ok, but people who saw me racing commented that I didn't have much kick when trying to jump away at speed.
  • gematkinson1
    gematkinson1 Posts: 69
    brilliant advice guys once again thanks very much.
    I just saw a great deal on a cramkset this size but it is obviously not going to be right for me :-)

    think il continue to look for one the same as what i currently ride or even the 50/39 option, as i do like to crack at some hills when i venture back up north from time to time...


    Muchos gracias :-)
  • wildmoustache
    wildmoustache Posts: 4,010
    By the way ... 50-36 is not often advertised (god knows why :roll: ) ... but ... a 36 ring has the same bolt circle diameter as a 34 ring ... so it's a quick an easy job for you/LBS to take off the 34 on a new chainset and stick on a 36.

    I did this with my campag UT chainset when I bought it as I knew I didn't want a silly little 34 ring ! :wink:
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Why are you replacing the chainset though ? Personally I'd not bother unless mine was worn out ?
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    Why change cranks? Just buy 110 bolt cicle chanrings in 52 or 42 or 39 teeth. Then
    you can still use your 50-34 combo if you head for the mountains. Sugino makes them.
    Unless all that money is burning a hole in your pocket.

    Dennis Noward
  • APIII
    APIII Posts: 2,010
    FSA do them aswell
    http://www.dotbike.com/ProductsP1122.aspx
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Personally I find the 42t ring too big for hilly riding, but a 39t is ideal
    dennisn wrote:
    Why change cranks? Just buy 110 bolt cicle chanrings in 52 or 42 or 39 teeth.

    I'm not fond of that idea - you lose some of the cranks' stiffness by putting normal sized rings on a compact chainset. I can tell the difference anyway and it's slightly disconcerting.
    I like bikes...

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  • SDP
    SDP Posts: 665
    horses for courses ..

    when i started it was al 52/42

    then 53/39

    & now 50/34 seems most popular ..

    i got 50/36 on winter bike ( it was 34 but dbl changes annoyed me ) & 50/38 on summer bike ....
    both with 12x25 on the back
    now i dont race 52s or 53s are of no use & TBH nor is the 12 sprocket !
    www.mjsracing.net
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    Not sure where you got the idea for a 53-42. 42's are sort of "old school" gearing.
    haven't heard much about them in the last 20 or 30 years. You need to ask yourself if you can even push a 50-12 for any length of time except on a downhill, and then it sort of
    becomes a mute point. If you can't push 50-12(and I have my doubts - no offence
    intended) then a 53 big ring will be much harder so I don't see the point. I would stay with what you have unless you need a new crank for whatever reason, then buy another
    50-36 like your other one or even a 50-34. The 34 will help in the hills. To put it another way - big ring in front with the small cog in the back(say 50-12) equals high speeds "IF"
    you have the power - small ring in front with a large cog in the back(say 34-25) equals
    hill climbing ability.

    Dennis Noward
  • synchronicity
    synchronicity Posts: 1,415
    Yes, it's a significant difference.
    It might be okay for flat areas... provided you're already fit.
    vertebr.ae | precision braking & shifting
  • gematkinson1
    gematkinson1 Posts: 69
    thanks, think im going to look at a new decicated compact crankset, im changing it as i was knocked over quite badly last month, losing 5 front teeth in the process..... my crank is quite scratched up and a few teeth dented....
  • blorg
    blorg Posts: 1,169
    Depends on what you are after. If you just want a harder/faster gear at the top end get a cassette with an 11t cog. 50-11 is a harder gear than 53-12 (it is equivalent to 55-12.)
  • unclemalc
    unclemalc Posts: 563
    gematkinson1 wrote:
    i was knocked over quite badly last month, losing 5 front teeth in the process..... my crank is quite scratched up and a few teeth dented....

    You lost 5 teeth...?:shock:
    The crank has dented teeth...? :shock: :shock:
    Can't you both come to some arrangement...?? :D
    Spring!
    Singlespeeds in town rule.
  • gematkinson1
    gematkinson1 Posts: 69
    hahaha never thought of that! but at least its are just a little dented, mine were smashed out :-(
  • unclemalc
    unclemalc Posts: 563
    :?
    Sorry to hear that, hope it hasn't put you off.
    If you get caught up in a bit of road rage, smile and show them your war face... :evil:
    Spring!
    Singlespeeds in town rule.
  • peanut
    peanut Posts: 1,373
    Hi gema welcome to the forums .Sorry to hear you lost some teeth :shock: but glad to see that it hasn't put you off one bit. :wink:
    Nothing wrong with getting a 53t -42t chainset if you expect to do a lot of high speed riding like weekly club runs or time trialling but it is a big jump in gearing from what you have

    If you ever feel like you need another gear when you are in the big ring (50t) then an easier solution would be to stick to a 50t-36t but also change the rear cassette to an 11t -25t that would be a useful increase without needing to change the front mech and chain length etc
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    peanut wrote:
    Hi gema welcome to the forums .Sorry to hear you lost some teeth :shock: but glad to see that it hasn't put you off one bit. :wink:
    Nothing wrong with getting a 53t -42t chainset if you expect to do a lot of high speed riding like weekly club runs or time trialling but it is a big jump in gearing from what you have

    If you ever feel like you need another gear when you are in the big ring (50t) then an easier solution would be to stick to a 50t-36t but also change the rear cassette to an 11t -25t that would be a useful increase without needing to change the front mech and chain length etc

    50-11 :?: :?: :?: How many people do you know could push a gear like that :?: :?:
    It's huge - bigger than a 53-12. This is not a gear that your average rider would ever use.
    Well, maybe going downhill or if you had a hurricane tailwind or during a short, out of the saddle, sprint, maybe, just maybe, but I doubt it. As for a 53-42, I haven't seen one of those in years. Maybe you have legs like Bettini and can push this kind of gearing but
    I doubt that the OP, who claims to have little knowledge of gearing, can move gears like you talk about. I mean really, needing a 53-42 for a club ride. Give me a break.

    Dennis Noward
  • peanut
    peanut Posts: 1,373
    dennisn wrote:
    peanut wrote:

    If you ever feel like you need another gear when you are in the big ring (50t) then an easier solution would be to stick to a 50t-36t but also change the rear cassette to an 11t -25t that would be a useful increase without needing to change the front mech and chain length etc

    50-11 :?: :?: :?: How many people do you know could push a gear like that :?: :?:
    It's huge - bigger than a 53-12. This is not a gear that your average rider would ever use.


    Dennis Noward

    calm down dennis :lol:
    no one is suggesting the op gets a 42t inner ring. It was the op that mentioned it because it came with the new chainset .Its still quite a common option with obscure chainset manufacturers and a simple matter to change the inner ring for a 38t instead

    I suggested a 50t-36t would be more appropriate if you care to re-read my post carefully.

    I was not suggesting you need to be in the 50tx11 for a club run
    I was saying that a 50t chainring can be used with any of the cassette sprockets without problem ie 50t x 12t or 50tx 13t

    A gear like 50tx11t is used very occasionally as is the other end of the gear range 36tx25t
  • aracer
    aracer Posts: 1,649
    dennisn wrote:
    50-11 :?: :?: :?: How many people do you know could push a gear like that :?: :?:
    Me. Used mine this evening on one of my standard routes on a 1.5 mile downhill where I can hit 40mph. Then again I have a 1 mile downhill at the start of almost every ride I do where I get up to 33+mph, and use the 50-11. Wouldn't normally use it on the flat, but could turn it over in a sprint (still aiming to set off one of the speed cameras round here, and they're on flat bits).

    Just because you might not want to pedal on downhills, doesn't mean some of us don't. Have to admit I didn't miss it on sportives though, when it gets swapped for a lower bottom gear (34-23 is usually low enough to get me up anything round here, including nominally killer climbs, but the 25 was handy for 20% and 25% climbs after 80 miles!)
  • peanut
    peanut Posts: 1,373
    aracer wrote:
    dennisn wrote:
    50-11 :?: :?: :?: How many people do you know could push a gear like that :?: :?:
    Me. Used mine this evening on one of my standard routes on a 1.5 mile downhill where I can hit 40mph. Then again I have a 1 mile downhill at the start of almost every ride I do where I get up to 33+mph, and use the 50-11. )

    another speed freak like me :roll: :wink: I have actually spun out a 53tx11t and that was really flying :lol:
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    peanut wrote:
    aracer wrote:
    dennisn wrote:
    50-11 :?: :?: :?: How many people do you know could push a gear like that :?: :?:
    Me. Used mine this evening on one of my standard routes on a 1.5 mile downhill where I can hit 40mph. Then again I have a 1 mile downhill at the start of almost every ride I do where I get up to 33+mph, and use the 50-11. )

    another speed freak like me :roll: :wink: I have actually spun out a 53tx11t and that was really flying :lol:


    Right, other than downhills a 50-11 is basically useless. Can any of you actually
    claim to be able to "push" this kind of gear for any length of time. And while I'm at it, it was you peanut who suggested that there was "nothing wrong" with a 53-42 for fast
    riding at the club level. That's one hell of a club you have there. I know everyone wants to talk about how big of gears they use but lets get real.

    Dennis Noward
  • peanut
    peanut Posts: 1,373
    dennisn wrote:
    Right, other than downhills a 50-11 is basically useless. Can any of you actually
    claim to be able to "push" this kind of gear for any length of time. And while I'm at it, it was you peanut who suggested that there was "nothing wrong" with a 53-42 for fast
    riding at the club level. That's one hell of a club you have there. I know everyone wants to talk about how big of gears they use but lets get real.

    Dennis Noward

    Dennis you're a menace .. :lol: read the post properly chum and chill out ..sheesh :roll:

    Enjoy the Bank Holiday everyone :D:D:D
  • unclemalc
    unclemalc Posts: 563
    Cheers peanut - you too.

    I briefly ran a 53/39 - 11/27 set up and going down a steep bit on 53-11.... :shock:
    what a buzz...... :D
    Only time I could get anywhere near it tho'. :(
    Spring!
    Singlespeeds in town rule.
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    dennisn wrote:
    Right, other than downhills a 50-11 is basically useless. Can any of you actually claim to be able to "push" this kind of gear for any length of time.

    Yes I'll claim that, 50-11 at 80rpm is only ~28mph, easy peasy.
    I like bikes...

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  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    redddraggon wrote:
    dennisn wrote:
    Right, other than downhills a 50-11 is basically useless. Can any of you actually claim to be able to "push" this kind of gear for any length of time.

    Yes I'll claim that, 50-11 at 80rpm is only ~28mph, easy peasy.

    I sure you can, and for hours on end no doubt. :roll: :roll: :roll:
    And what's the name of that pro team you ride for. :roll: :roll:

    Dennis Noward

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