Singlespeed ratio problem

I'm trying to fix up a single speed rig but I'm having a few issues.
I bought a DMR 16 tooth conversion kit with a Surly tensioner with the intention of driving it with a 32 tooth chainring.
I've set everything up as it should be but the chain keeps skipping over the rear cog and is completely unusable. To make sure it was the rear cog that was the issue I tried a 12 tooth cog off a 9 speed cassette and it seems to work fine.
My question is, if I use the 12 tooth rear cog with a 22 tooth chainring will it be exactly the same as using a 32 tooth chainring with a 16 tooth rear cog. My calculations seem to think so but are there likely to be any issues with a 22-12 setup?
Thanks, Simon.
I bought a DMR 16 tooth conversion kit with a Surly tensioner with the intention of driving it with a 32 tooth chainring.
I've set everything up as it should be but the chain keeps skipping over the rear cog and is completely unusable. To make sure it was the rear cog that was the issue I tried a 12 tooth cog off a 9 speed cassette and it seems to work fine.
My question is, if I use the 12 tooth rear cog with a 22 tooth chainring will it be exactly the same as using a 32 tooth chainring with a 16 tooth rear cog. My calculations seem to think so but are there likely to be any issues with a 22-12 setup?
Thanks, Simon.
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Try a new chain?
I've tried 3 chains already, a nine speed MTB, a seven speed MTB and a BMX/Singlespeed chain. (All brand new).
I'm not too worried about quicker chain wear as it's a second bike anyway. Basically as long as 22-11 would give me a sensible-ish gear with minimal disadvanteges over a more conventional 32 tooth chainring then I'm happy.
In cassette sprockets the teeth are cut down and have ramps etc designed to make the chain dismount easily. Not fun if you're giving it some welly!
The sprocket from the kit should have full depth teeth. IMO its worth finding the cause of the problem.
I'd suggest 3 things to double check:
Chain tension - not too slack.
Chainline - use straight edge or taught string rather than eying it up.
Wheel alignment - is slightly skew?
It might be worth checking your frame alignment before starting. I discovered that mine was 6mm to one side. The wheel looked okay against the chain stays but the sprocket was nowhere near where it was expected to be.
FCN8 Dawes Audax
FCN13: Pompetamine dad and daughter bike
FCN5 Modded Dawes Hybrid R.I.P.
FCN6 Fixed beater bike (on loan to brother in law)
HTH
But I think most of these kits are 3/32. INfact I'm pretty sure the DMR Simple chain tensioner only takes a 3/32 chain.
Are you using a worn chain with it?
I've been told that new cogs with a worn chain is a bad idea and they will slip.
FCN8 Dawes Audax
FCN13: Pompetamine dad and daughter bike
FCN5 Modded Dawes Hybrid R.I.P.
FCN6 Fixed beater bike (on loan to brother in law)
Hope this helps.
You will not find any 11T cogs that fit on a cassette body. the smallest is 12T.
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
But, as David 124 said, they are not the best option. Deep tooth sprockets are best for this application and it should be possible to make 32:16 work.
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
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Gears - Obscuring the goodness of singlespeed
I'm changing my rear cog from 16t to 14t and need to fit a new chain too (this is on the MTB). Turns out bigger lad, heavy leg, old chain, etc, etc, etc
I'll need a 3/32 chain, but having never changed a chain before, do the pins come with, do I buy them separate or what? (I'll have to reduce the chain length)
Folding Bike +10, Baggies +1, SPD's -1
(Oh yeah, it's an Airnimal Chameleon. Bwah ha ha ha...cough)
+ Trek 8500 Singlespeed conversion.
Flat Essex = no need for gears on a tow path.
I would recommend ditching the lot! When you buy your chain buy the appropriate Sram Powerlink at the same time. Proven reliable and reusable, so you can readily remove and replace your chain if desired. Very convenient when cleaning in cold weather