Magura Julie brakes - Should I upgrade them ?

Popeh
Popeh Posts: 115
edited August 2008 in MTB beginners
Hi !

Recently purchsed a used bike (Marin East Peak) which uses Magura Julie disk brakes (2004).

Under load the front disk has a rubbing noise which goes away when you apply slight pressure, and also the caps on what i'm assuming is the reservoir fill (see photo) are missing.

I've looked online and on the Magura website - manuals etc are available to download but it seems a nightmare trying to get parts listed (new caps/transport device).

My question is - would you look at upgrading the brakes and disk to something newer/serviceable? -

Thanks

brake.jpg
- Marin 2005 East Peak

Comments

  • yes, get rid of them. it will be the best thing you can do. I have a 2004 marin (from new) which came with Julies. These brakes are advertised as being maintenance free, but in fact this means you cant / or its not worth it.

    I swapped mine for some hope mono minis and the transformation is instantly noticable. Its your choice though if you want to spend new money on old, but the 2004 marin frame you have is as good as many new ones on the market.

    Also consider the saving on brake pads as the julies tend to go through them quicker then the Hopes I have noticed.




    .
  • Wag$ter
    Wag$ter Posts: 69
    I have the Magura Julie breakes on my Scalpel and I get through pads quite quick!
    I'm just about to upgrade to Hope mono m4 :D
  • Popeh
    Popeh Posts: 115
    edited August 2008
    Thanks for the info guys, i'll get them replaced this month - had a peek at the Hope minis. Most reviews always seem to give high praise to Hope so i'll aim for that brand. My first actual technical build on my bike above general cleaning/lubing - should be fun! :-)

    The frame itself I fully agree with, I love it and spent a lot of time deciding on the purchase vs. 2007/8 frame and Orange. The only bits I would think about changing in the future with the exception of the brakes, would be perhaps lighter forks instead of Manitou Axel and a rear shock with lockout of they exist to make the road cycling easier.
    - Marin 2005 East Peak
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    so what is actually wrong with the brakes? do they work? do they stop you?

    I can see things in that picture that you could spend the money on and get better improvements.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • well Hope are pretty local to you too and good reputation for great after sale service. plus they have decent help online http://www.hopegb.com
  • Popeh
    Popeh Posts: 115
    Hi nicklouse, sorry I must of been editing when you posted.

    Are you referring to the forks? I'm genuinly still very new to the upgrading aspect/modern day bike specs but spending a lot of time reading over threads in this forum is giving me a lot of information - particularly maintaining.

    the brakes themselves do work, but the tapping/grind on the front is extremely annoying and i'm not entirely sure how to resolve it, as guides on the system outside the downloadable manual are ... rare. When I apply the lever, the rotar very slightly but noticeably bends as if one pad is pushing more than the other. I was looking at ordering pads with new caps and a transporter device which also has a small tool to show you if the pads need changing, but reading other peoples efforts to obtain parts have prompted this change.

    Here is the full spec if there's anything else obvious.

    Frame: 6061 Aluminium Twin Monocoque Front
    Swingarm: 4" Travel Lightweight Monocoque 4-Bar Link Aluminium Swingarm with Disc Mounts
    Rear Shock: X Fusion Shox O2 Super Air Shock w/Rebound adjuster
    Fork: Manitou Axel Elite 100mm with Rebound and Compression adjust
    Crankset: TruVativ FiveD, 42/32/22 with 1 alloy chainring
    Bottom Bracket: TruVativ Cartridge Set Rear
    Derailleur: Shimano Deore
    Front Derailleur: Shimano LX
    Shifters: Shimano Alivio
    Cassette: 8 speed 11-28
    Chain: Shimano IG 31
    Hubs: Shimano Disc, 32h
    Rims: Mavic XM117 Disc, 32h
    Brakes: Magura Julie Hydraulic Disk
    Bar: Double Butted Alloy with 1" Rise
    Stem: 3D Forged 4-Bolt Threadless with 7deg. rise
    Grips: Marin Pro-grip
    Headset: WTB Momentum Comp ST threadless 1 1/8"
    Saddle: WTB Speed V ATB (Love Channel and Comfort Zone)
    Seatpost: Comp Alloy Micro Adjust

    Thanks
    - Marin 2005 East Peak
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    slacken bolts that hold the adaptor to the fork. apply brake,just, and rotate wheel one revolution tighten bolts. that will be the brakes sorted.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • synchronicity
    synchronicity Posts: 1,415
    Maybe the pads are worn out? Check the pads and do what the previous person (nicklouse) says before buying new kit. :wink:
  • JasonRwmb
    JasonRwmb Posts: 268
    I used to have a set of Julie brakes on my bike. In my experience they are almost impossible to set up without the pads rubbing, it is almost like the pistons don't retract enough when you release the lever. I also found that if I removed a wheel I had to re-align the caliper to make sure there was just a minimal amount of rubbing.

    I ended up buying a 2nd hand set of Hope Mono M4 brakes and have never looked back.
  • ok so i have the exact same brakes and my rear one has been making a hideous noise and rubbing!! Noone seems to know what the problem is so i was going to get them bled in a shop or do it myself with the bleeding kit. I was just wondering what is a cheap alternative as Mono M4s seem rather expensive. I want something that works and doesnt rub!

    Maybe we can both end up buying them!
  • passout
    passout Posts: 4,425
    I always liked mine!
    'Happiness serves hardly any other purpose than to make unhappiness possible' Marcel Proust.
  • synchronicity
    synchronicity Posts: 1,415
    gogogoftw wrote:
    I want something that works and doesnt rub!

    How about Shimano Deore? They work well for what they are.

    (and that's coming from someone who owns 1 MTB with SRAM & two road bikes with campagnolo... meaning I'm not a huge fan of shimano but it's cheap enough and it usually works)
  • BlackSpur
    BlackSpur Posts: 4,228
    Hayes Stroker Trails from Merlin.
    "Melancholy is incompatible with bicycling." ~James E. Starrs
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    BlackSpur wrote:
    Hayes Stroker Trails from Merlin.

    Absolutely, you'll get both sets for less than half what you'd pay for a full set of Hopes. Good brakes too.
    Give a home to a retired Greyhound. Tia Greyhound Rescue
    Help for Heroes
    JayPic
  • well i think im gunna go after some Shimano Deores as theyr cheap and seem to be ok. I officially hate Julies and Magura theyr crap and im definately staying away forever!!
  • toasty
    toasty Posts: 2,598
    Funny thing about Hopes, everyone only remembers good reviews. The bulk I see seem to be 7-8ish. Generally reading: "reliable, easily serviceable, fantastic looking but expensive brakes" or something along those lines.

    See a lot on ebay, they do resell very well and seem to last, I think there's better options around now though for less cash personally.
  • like what? :D
  • toasty
    toasty Posts: 2,598
    Formulas for performance. Avid Juicys, Hayes Stokers and Shimanos for value.

    When I say value I just mean cheaper/less pimp though, I don't mean worse generally.

    Although not using any at the moment I still really rate Juicy 3s bizarrely, when set up properly they're fantastic :) Had a set on an old FSR XC and I've stuck some on the missus bike recently, both very reliable stoppers, comparable to more expensive models. Factory setup is a bit random though, they might come needing bleeding.
  • Popeh
    Popeh Posts: 115
    nicklouse wrote:
    slacken bolts that hold the adaptor to the fork. apply brake,just, and rotate wheel one revolution tighten bolts. that will be the brakes sorted.

    The previous owner also supplied me with a spare set of pads which I installed on the front. One thing I noticed was that the piston on each side - one seems to move a lot further than the other after I slightly squeezed the break lever after moving the pistons back with a flat screwdriver.

    I've done what you suggested above after installing them and it is still 'catching', but i'm about to take it for a run around which should get them bedded in at the least.

    One other thing which seemed suspicious is that the rotor seems more one sided than centred, with the old pads and with the new ones and doesn't seem adjustable. See below:

    disk.jpg

    I will be searchin for a new set of brakes I think for certain, more for support and parts but in the meantime would you say the pic allignment is normal? The manual generally shows perfectly centred rotor.

    Also, from what I can see the rotor does appear to be tru.

    Thanks
    - Marin 2005 East Peak
  • well ive literally had exactly the same problem as you mate! I rang about 12 bike shops in my area today to chat about the best option to bleed / fix / get rid of them / buy new / 2nd hand etc! Basically came to the conclusion they are naff and very hard to sort out! I found that i got mine set up and centered and running smooth. Halfway round the Marin Trail in Wales at the weekend and they were squeeling, rubbing and massively brassing me off!

    Ive decided i cant be arsed to fix them because it seems like its impossible to make them last. Im going to get some Shimano Deores or Juicy's as i have little money but want something that works and doesnt brake every ride! Hope you can get yours sorted if thats your plan but id definately say that its just not worth it. Invest in some nice new ones and at least you will get a guarantee and working brakes!

    :D
  • Popeh
    Popeh Posts: 115
    Well I decided to replace due to hassle of ordering parts (although not urgent parts) and after a post thought i'd give them another try until next month when i'll have time to find, order and install new ones.

    Just back in and they started off pretty good, no horrible clicking. Sadly I become slightly over confident on a downhill muddy gritty path and skidded to my demise with me taking the brunt of the fall. Although the bike looks unscathed, the brakes have started tapping again. So new ones are going into the defo category.

    On a side note, i'm actually quite proud of my 'return to cycling' grazes and cuts. Is that normal? ;p
    - Marin 2005 East Peak
  • haha! You should complain to Magura about the accident as their brakes are naff :]
  • Popeh
    Popeh Posts: 115
    I think it was more me than the brakes lol, they did their job at least.
    - Marin 2005 East Peak