The secret to fitting tyres on rims
Since peanut seems to think I can't contribute anything useful, and given he can't manage to read the information I gave in his thread, I'll provide it here for him:
Secret 1: Use thin rim tape - in recent years I've used Conti adhesive (like Velox but plasticcy and thinner). This gives you more space for the bead to drop into, hence giving you more slack. On my latest build I've got Veloplugs which are even better, and I'm sure will significantly help with even the most reluctant combos.
Secret 2: Use the correct technique - what you need to do is get all of the bead (apart from the last bit you're trying to lift over) in the well of the rim where it will drop down to give you more slack. This might seem obvious, but what most people miss is that the bit next to the valve can't drop into the well as the valve is in the way. Hence what you do is leave the bit next to the valve as the bit you lift over last - this provides significant extra slack.
Secret 1: Use thin rim tape - in recent years I've used Conti adhesive (like Velox but plasticcy and thinner). This gives you more space for the bead to drop into, hence giving you more slack. On my latest build I've got Veloplugs which are even better, and I'm sure will significantly help with even the most reluctant combos.
Secret 2: Use the correct technique - what you need to do is get all of the bead (apart from the last bit you're trying to lift over) in the well of the rim where it will drop down to give you more slack. This might seem obvious, but what most people miss is that the bit next to the valve can't drop into the well as the valve is in the way. Hence what you do is leave the bit next to the valve as the bit you lift over last - this provides significant extra slack.
0
Comments
-
Couldn't agree more.
I usually use Velox rim tapes which do have the disadvantage of being a bit thick but I've always got away with it whilst wishing they were thinner when I've had a tight tyre. OTOH the extra thickness does protect against internally generated punctures and I've occasionally had problems with them on our tandem on fast bumpy road descents in Spain.
I cut my tyre fitting teeth on motorcycle tyres and held the club record at one time for removing and re-fitting one in under 2 minutes IIRC (it was a few years ago )
GeoffOld cyclists never die; they just fit smaller chainrings ... and pedal faster0 -
Good tips aracer. I'd have to add Secret 3: get a SpeedLever- I was skeptical before I got one but it honestly makes removal and reattachment an absolute breeze. At least as small/light as two normal tyre levers too.0
-
blorg wrote:Good tips aracer. I'd have to add Secret 3: get a SpeedLever- I was skeptical before I got one but it honestly makes removal and reattachment an absolute breeze. At least as small/light as two normal tyre levers too.
speedlevers are good, but there are much bigger and heavier than two normal tyre levers (e.g. park, michelin)
trust me ... I'm an obsessive weight weenie0 -
31g I believe. I always used metal tyre irons before so lighter than them anyway!0
-
No tyre levers at all is even lighter 8)0
-
blorg wrote:31g I believe. I always used metal tyre irons before so lighter than them anyway!
ok, having said I'm obsessive, I now find myself embarassed to have not weighed my tyre levers. Park are very light ... though a bit plasticky and brittle. Michelin are better IME. I reckon they are no more than 8 or 9 grams a piece.0 -
Zipp rim tape and a dose of HTFU will get any tyre onto any rim.0
-
All good tips here, but if the tyre's a bit tight to get on, just use the tyre levers to get the last bit on the rim. It saves a whole load of grief, time, and sore hands. I've never pinched a tube doing it this way, just need to be a bit careful.0
-
Better still. Fit the new tyre on the rim without the inner tube first. Then remove the tyre. This will stretch the tyre first and you can be as rough as you like fitting it as you don't have to worry about pinching the tube. Use a lever if it's still too tight.
Finally fit the tyre with the inner tube with your fingers only and it should slip on easier as it is now stretched.
Bin0 -
A little bit of Fairy liquid on the last bit of tyre bead helps me on tough ones.BeestonCC Sportive
Sunday 24th June 2012
Enjoy the finest cycling in the Peak District.
47, 75 and 111 mile routes.
http://www.beestonccsportive.co.uk/0 -
blorg wrote:Good tips aracer. I'd have to add Secret 3: get a SpeedLever- I was skeptical before I got one but it honestly makes removal and reattachment an absolute breeze. At least as small/light as two normal tyre levers too.
That's a good call. I've got Speed lever, and yes they're a little incongruous, but they really help. As for the weight.....well it ain't gonna make any differance to me 8)'How can an opinion be bullsh1t?' High Fidelity0 -
binlinus wrote:
Finally fit the tyre with the inner tube with your fingers only and it should slip on easier as it is now stretched.
Hi there.
All of the above is good advice. I'd like to add that instead of using your fingers to push the last bit of bead onto the rim, it's better to roll the tyre on using the palms of your hands. This hurts a lot less than using your fingers.
Lastly, if you're really, really stuck at the side of the road with no tools, you can use a quick release as a tyre lever. It will get scratched though.
Cheers, Andy0 -
You guys have finally convinced me. You have told me for quite some time that
clinchers are the way to go. Now I'm sure I don't believe you. Where's that glue damn it?
Dennis Noward0 -
You should check my post on peanut's ease of fitting thread for my thoughts on relative difficulty of fixing tubs and clinchers on the road, dennis0
-
aracer wrote:You should check my post on peanut's ease of fitting thread for my thoughts on relative difficulty of fixing tubs and clinchers on the road, dennis
I've been kind of following it. Got a little ugly for a moment. Sort of like some of mine or
should I say most of mine. I've come to the conclusion that it must be me. :shock: :shock:
Dennis Noward0 -
aracer wrote:s, but what most people miss is that the bit next to the valve can't drop into the well as the valve is in the way. Hence what you do is leave the bit next to the valve as the bit you lift over last - this provides significant extra slack.
Interesting.
I already ensure the bead is in the well.....but alway start at the valve, to be certain that the bead is underneath that part of the inner tube.
I suppose you part inflate the inner to avoid trapping the it under the bead, by the valve?
I must check out other thread and look at that altercation 'tween you and Peanut“It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best..." Ernest Hemingway0 -
Ken Night wrote:I suppose you part inflate the inner to avoid trapping the it under the bead, by the valve?0