Is it worth upgrading - Specialized Sequoia?

Notifitsraining
Notifitsraining Posts: 72
edited July 2008 in Workshop
I have a 2005 Specialized Sequoia Elite. It has taken me across the Pyrenees, over the 40k bike legs of a few triathlons, and the length of events like the Dunwich Dynamo and Etape Caledonia, and many hours general spinning. The only modifications I’ve made are flipping the stem and stacking a spacer or two to lower the bars, and ditching the suspension seat post and horrendous seat for Specialized Pave carbon and Avatar replacements. However, whilst I love the bike, and nothing needs replacing, it shows it’s (and my) limitations a bit in weight – particularly at the back end.

Question – is it worth upgrading, and what would are the best things to upgrade? The most obvious options below save nearly 1kg, but £4-500 would be a big wedge down on a new or used carbon bike…

Replace bulletproof WH550 (1850g) wheels to an Ultegra set. Save 250g. ~£200 Or change to RS20, save 100g for £135.
Replace Tigra triple chainset with Ultegra / FSA compact. Save 400g. ~£130.
Replace unbranded (depleted uranium?) calipers for Ultegra SL6600, and the SPD pedals for 105 SPD-SL. Save >150g for £100.
Replace Avatar Gel seat with Specialized Toupe. Save 120g. £70.

Comments

  • wildmoustache
    wildmoustache Posts: 4,010
    yes it is worth upgrading parts that will carry over to your next frame. you need to think about that frame now and work out where you want to get to. the parts you've listed are better than most of the parts you'll get on say a £1200 complete bike, and by spreading the cost it will be less painful. you'll end up with a better next bike.

    i'd go for the Toupe, the pedals (perhaps even go for something much lighter such as Look Keo Carbons), and the wheels (again, what about 1400g dura-ace wheels?)

    upgrade and enjoy, but in the end a new frame will make a difference also.
  • maddog 2
    maddog 2 Posts: 8,114
    do the lot I say
    Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer
  • il_principe
    il_principe Posts: 9,155
    You've done your dues on it, i say upgrade the whole thing, go on, you know you want to! Failing that go for wheels and tyres before anything else. What tyres are you running at the mo?
  • Thanks Wildmoustache - I like that logic!

    I currently run Specialized 23/25 Roubaix Armadillo Elite's - as Suffolk lanes tend to have alot of flint splinters lying in wait for unwitting light tyre users. Probably a bit on the heavy side, but they have never punctured. Is it worth running lighter (and more expensive) inner tubes?
  • pedlad
    pedlad Posts: 127
    Hi

    I faced exactly the same dilema about my sequoia - eventually decided that whillst I may imagine I'm good enough for a £1500 carbon super machine, actually the sequoia triple butted frame with cabon forks and stays is plenty good enough for a few more years

    I bought mine for LEJOG and done plenty of miles since. I'd swapped the nasty suspension post for a carbon pave one a while ago (it's actually more comfortable that the sus post!).

    So after complettely blowing the planned budget out of the water with an intchy click finger on wiggle I ended up with
    p6161598hy7.jpg

    Wheels - lots of hand wringing about these as I'm larger and ended up getting the easton's by accident after tredz couldn't supply the halo's I ordered - really like them though compared to the original ALEX rims I'd used until now - added USE Spin Stix Titanium Skewer Set in a moment of weakness

    Stem - Ditched the adjustable one which weighed a ton for a Oval R700 Road Stem

    Pedals - was using time atac road which were kind to dodgy knees but heavy - replaced with v light for money Ritchey Pro Micro V4 Road Pedals

    Saddle - always really got on with the original Spez one so bit worried about swapping for a lighter model but fine so far with SDG Ti-Fly C Saddle

    I also took off the chicken brake levers.

    All in all a very expensive but satisfying 1.147kg removed, now if only I could remove the 5x that I need to lose.







    [/img]
  • That is one pimped up and good looking Sequoia!

    Wheels will be my initial concern. I liked the look, weight and price of the Easton EA90SL/SLX, but reviews suggest they won't cope well with my beer injected 90kg weight, particularly when climbing. I can't afford to go above £350, so Dura Ace are out. Fulcrum 3's have alot of support, but are a fair bit heavier for the same price as the Eastons. What other realistic options are there (ideally in black - as Pedlad's Sequoia clearly shows looks are important too!!!)?
  • wildmoustache
    wildmoustache Posts: 4,010
    doesn't one of the eastons have a higher spoke count for clydesdales. very good wheels by all accounts.

    zondas are very good wheels for the money - you can get them for under £300
  • pedlad
    pedlad Posts: 127
    Glad you like it Notifitsraining.

    The wheels are great. I'm 85 Kg and no problems so far other than a faulty freehub which was due to lbs assembly rather than the quality of the wheels. They feel so much quicker than the original cheapo ones.

    As I mentioned the Halo Mercury's were my original choice as a bargain price for lo weight but very little feedback on this forum about their suitability for a heavier rider. Getting them might be a problem though.

    Stem, saddle and removing the chicken levers were my biggest bang per buck gains.

    ps what are clydesdales? Another term for audax/sportive type riding?
  • Fortunately my bike didn't have the adjustable stem, but the chicken levers do need to go!

    Does anyone know if the Easton EA90SL is a bit more robust than the SLX? It's slightly heavier and has more spokes, but is still lighter than the Fulcrum 3.
  • maddog 2
    maddog 2 Posts: 8,114
    clydesdales are big fellas

    ...or indeed women...?

    (and horses)
    Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer