48/34 chainset on sportives - anybody using this?
Comments
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Nope - I understand perfectly, and you still seem to be missing my point. I never said anything about front mech shifting, so you were correcting me about something I didn't say. I'll apologise for not being more explicit, but the clues were in my mention of Escape (which is a rear mech shifting thing) and my mention of multiple clicks, which if you hadn't started off with the assumption that I was wrong you might have realised meant multiple clicks on the right (rear) shifter.
The point is that it's not actually the front shifting which is the problem (I'm sure that works fine on both Shimano and Campag), but as you mention yourself the fact that when you change rings you get a big jump in gears. That's a problem which is solved by simultaneously changing up (or down) several gears on the back, something which is a single push movement with Campag, but multiple clicks with Shimano for upshifting.
As I said, I do have doubles with both (though my only compact is Campag, where I regularly change up multiple gears on the back when changing to little ring), so I know perfectly well what I'm talking about. I also have a couple of Shimano STI triples, an Erikson Gizmo triple and an XTR M970 equipped MTB which will change up 2 gears with one lever movement (I've no idea why the new DA hasn't adopted this - it's the most useful advance over the previous version).0 -
aracer wrote:Nope - I understand perfectly, and you still seem to be missing my point. I never said anything about front mech shifting, so you were correcting me about something I didn't say. I'll apologise for not being more explicit, but the clues were in my mention of Escape (which is a rear mech shifting thing) and my mention of multiple clicks, which if you hadn't started off with the assumption that I was wrong you might have realised meant multiple clicks on the right (rear) shifter.
The point is that it's not actually the front shifting which is the problem (I'm sure that works fine on both Shimano and Campag), but as you mention yourself the fact that when you change rings you get a big jump in gears. That's a problem which is solved by simultaneously changing up (or down) several gears on the back, something which is a single push movement with Campag, but multiple clicks with Shimano for upshifting.
As I said, I do have doubles with both (though my only compact is Campag, where I regularly change up multiple gears on the back when changing to little ring), so I know perfectly well what I'm talking about. I also have a couple of Shimano STI triples, an Erikson Gizmo triple and an XTR M970 equipped MTB which will change up 2 gears with one lever movement (I've no idea why the new DA hasn't adopted this - it's the most useful advance over the previous version).
yeah, the escape feature is nice. but it doesn't take that long to change down with shimano. it's not such a hardship that an intelligent man such as yourself needs to write essays on it
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wildmoustache wrote:[
yeah, the escape feature is nice. but it doesn't take that long to change down with shimano. it's not such a hardship that an intelligent man such as yourself needs to write essays on it
:roll:
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Maybe I`m slow in Sportives (which I am!) but I`ve moved to using a 46 / 34 combination with a customized 12-29 block; used in both GFC and TOBM, coming in `bronze` std times, and found the 34 / 29 good as a bale out gear and never really needed more than the 46 / 12 (which I can spin along at 35 - 40 mph OK).
I`ve found that the 46 ring gives me a good range of useable ratios for riding at 17 -30 mph., and then the 34 ring with 13 up for less than 20 mph riding
A Veloce Campy block has been customised from a 12-25 and 13-29 mix, with 12 -13-14-15-17-19-21-23-26-29 cogs, shift is a bit poor 15>>17 due to mis aligned ramps but get used to it. I personally cannot see point in a gear higher than 46 / 12 for me as I cannot PUSH anything higher and at end of day rarely am going at more than 30 mph except on descents when would freewheel at >40 mph anyway 0 -
I run 38/50 12 -25 on my Sunday bike and 48/34 12-27 on my sportive bike, although I'm likely to fit 33-48 for next years sportives, and may fit an 11-28 to go with it.
The 48 means I can ride that most of the time. Plus with the 50 and 48 I find that I use more of the cassette so its gets more even wear.
My Training and winter bikes are now fitted with 48 'big' rings, and don't have a problem keeping up with the chain gang (well most of the time !).
53 rings are really for pro and elite level use, and I'm not not of those.0 -
itisaboutthebike wrote:53 rings are really for pro and elite level use,
Not really.....I can't tell much difference between the 50 with 11-25 and 53 with 12--25. If you can't use a 53 far enough, but you don't need to be elite level or above to be able to use a 53 chainring.0 -
at the risk of turning this into a knob-waving contest , there's no way i'd be ok with 48-12 on most of the sportifs I've done.
I like to accelerate hard at the top of descents, out of hairpins / turns where you have to slow, and then you often get 4 or 5% downhill sections where blasting a really big gear makes progress much more rapid. 50x11 or 53x12 are my absolute minimums.0 -
wildmoustache wrote:50x11 or 53x12 are my absolute minimums.
blimey you must have legs like tree trunks !
I used to feel the same way . I like to push big gears so I can maximise the downhill sections to try make up some of the time and distance lost whenever there is a slight incline :oops:
there is nothing like pushing a 53x 11 on the flat whilst watching the faces of drivers as you overtake them lol :roll:0 -
redddraggon wrote:
Not really.....I can't tell much difference between the 50 with 11-25 and 53 with 12--25..
nor can I its only about 3" ......and no jokes about actresses and Bishops please :roll: 0 -
I've got 52/42 , 11/23 on my (ancient) road bike
I absolutely love it.
Never gets out of the garage though cos I can't get up the slightest incline
just use me hybrid, with something bonkers like a 23 " bottom gear, which works (most of the time)
I want a new road bike with a bottom gear like that, any ideas ?0 -
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What you need to do is work out what gear ratios that you personally like to use and then try and achieve them, making sure they are correctly positioned, no point if mathematically you can only get your most common used gear in largest ring largest sprocket.
Although I am using different ratios to you the principle is the same, by way of an example that is all I have done on my tour bike, I use a 13-29 Campagnolo 10 speed set up with 26-36-46, which gives me all that I am after
In my case for example I like gears of around 60”, you will see that I have got those on both middle and outer ring. I have done this essentially because this is a bike I use for two roles, solo rides of 15-20mph and touring rides of 12-15mph, to save repeated chain ring changes I can essentially use the big ring mainly for solo rides and the middle ring for more sociable rides. Even though it only has a 96" top gear I find that easily high enough for a mid 20-25 mph work out, for 15-20mph cruising I have ratios that I like available mid cassette on the 46 ring, this I find is the perfect set up for me. Note my reference to repeated chain ring changes, try and get your most frequently used ratios on the same chain ring in an appropriate chain line if possible.
Of course everyone is different, some prefer a lower low gear and a higher high gear especially on bikes set up for a different use; horses for courses as they say.It does take a bit of thought as to what you need both in terms of ratios and then equipment choices to achieve them which is exactly what you seem to be doing, but it can nearly always be done. In my case for example I did invest in a high quality chainset to get the ring combinations I wanted and put up with the fact that the front mech was designed for different sized rings, so in some combinations the gears don't change perfectly as the line of the front mech' follows that of a bigger set of chain rings.
Paul_Smith0 -
good informative post Paul as always . now if you could just add a 53t for all us sprinters and testers lol 0
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While the sale was on at Ribble, I picked up an Ultegra 16-27 cassette and a Connex Wipperman stainless steel chain, in anticipation of needing to replace worn out components on my Felt (and saving a nice packet on the RRP too) in the near future.
On the current (default setup), I found I tended to cruise in my 36x16 on the flat, very rarely using the 50t chainring at all (partly down to my high cadence preference over grinding).
I'm hoping the new cassette will mean I will start using the 50t more often, having considerably more options for my cruise speed, due to the one tooth cassette steps from 16 to 23 inclusive.
Bit of a diversion from a 48-34 thread, but we are trying to achive a similar result... A larger range of practical gears ================
2020 Voodoo Marasa
2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
2016 Voodoo Wazoo0 -
The Gear chart I linked to in the first sentence should even keep Hot Shot Hamish happypeanut wrote:good informative post Paul as always . now if you could just add a 53t for all us sprinters and testers lol
Paul0 -
I have a 52/39-12/25 on my old tank which I used in a sportive recently and I got hammered on long slopes. My beautiful Bianchi origianally had a 53/39-12/23 (which would have been even worse) so I worked out the gear ratios I could get from these two set-ups and then went ot my LBS and got an 11/27 for the Bianchi. The extra 2 gears at the bottom were sweet (and as my fitness has improved over this season, I never used the 27...) BUT there is nowhere on my usual runs that the 53-11/12 was useful so I have just gone over to a 50/34-12/25 setup. Regardless of the gearing ratios (this setup gives me 2 more lower gears than I had at that sportive), for my cadence and overall preferred speed, I can now spend most of the time in the '50', only using the '34' when it gets rough.
I think that is the crucial point - your preferred cadence. For, for example, the 53/39 rings with the 12/27 meant a lot of double-shifting to keep comfy at my pace.
Work out your preferred ratio range based upon what kit you currently use and re-gear accordingly with a chainset and /or cassette to suit.Spring!
Singlespeeds in town rule.0 -
unclemalc wrote:I have a 52/39-12/25 on my old tank which I used in a sportive recently and I got hammered on long slopes. My beautiful Bianchi origianally had a 53/39-12/23 (which would have been even worse) so I worked out the gear ratios I could get from these two set-ups and then went ot my LBS and got an 11/27 for the Bianchi. The extra 2 gears at the bottom were sweet (and as my fitness has improved over this season, I never used the 27...) BUT there is nowhere on my usual runs that the 53-11/12 was useful so I have just gone over to a 50/34-12/25 setup. Regardless of the gearing ratios (this setup gives me 2 more lower gears than I had at that sportive), for my cadence and overall preferred speed, I can now spend most of the time in the '50', only using the '34' when it gets rough.
I think that is the crucial point - your preferred cadence. For, for example, the 53/39 rings with the 12/27 meant a lot of double-shifting to keep comfy at my pace.
Work out your preferred ratio range based upon what kit you currently use and re-gear accordingly with a chainset and /or cassette to suit.
yes thats very good advice.I too have just switched from 53tx38t 11t-25t to a compact setup 50/34 - 12t-27t and as you say the majority of the time I'm happy in the 50t when it gets hilly the 34 is a big improvement over the 38 I had previously and I don't seem to be switching between the big and small rings all the time0 -
redddraggon wrote:wiffachip wrote:I want a new road bike with a bottom gear like that, any ideas ?
Get a touring triple ie 26/36/46 or MTB triple (22/32/44 etc), and use an MTB cassette (11-34) with it.
so would that be a cyclocross type of bike then, like for eg the spesh tricross ?0 -
Running Dura-Ace double and 11/23 cassette. It can be tough, but I manage just fine on hill climbs and have never been overtaken. Unless it's a short climb, I remain seated and spin my way up as quick as I can.0
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Turnbull2000 wrote:Running Dura-Ace double and 11/23 cassette. It can be tough, but I manage just fine on hill climbs and have never been overtaken. Unless it's a short climb, I remain seated and spin my way up as quick as I can.
Dude you are hardcore, but some people are weak and need a 30-34 gear on the flat.0 -
peanut wrote:When I was younger and fitter I would never dream of using anything greater than a 38t small ring with a 23t . It got me round 100 mile audax including Porlock hill and cheddar gorge without problem .:
Out of interest, has anyone been up both Porlock Hill and Peak Hill (out of Sidmouth) and if so, how do you think they compare in terms of steepness and difficulty?
Edindevon0 -
sorry I've done Porlock and Cheddar but not Peak.Edindevon wrote:peanut wrote:When I was younger and fitter I would never dream of using anything greater than a 38t small ring with a 23t . It got me round 100 mile audax including Porlock hill and cheddar gorge without problem .:
Out of interest, has anyone been up both Porlock Hill and Peak Hill (out of Sidmouth) and if so, how do you think they compare in terms of steepness and difficulty?
Edindevon
I found Porlock a long old grind but not too bad. I did it in 38t 23t when I was fitter .Because I am a heavy rider I found greater difficulty coming down off Porlock as my brakes were practically useless stopping me in the wet .Had to use my feet and the curb. I once had a tub heat up and roll right off the rim coming down Porlock :roll:
Are you doing an Audax ?0 -
peanut wrote:Are you doing an Audax ?
No, Peak Hill is just one of my local choices and I was curious to know how it compared with some of the local climbs on the sportives.
Peak Hill is about as steep as I would want to go with my lowest gear option of 34t / 25t on my Gios Compact Pro.
Edindevon0 -
I had 34 / 50 on my CX bike OMG I hated it! 34t is close to useless as I was just spinning it out unless I crossed chain right over to the highest sprockets on the 12-25 cassette. I swapped out to 36t and its much better. On my road bike I have 39-53t with 12-27 9sp - perfect gearing for me, 39 is good for 20mph cruising also climbing steep stuff with the 12-27, the 53 is awesome for going mental downhill or sprinting.0
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i am about to fit a 48t chain ring (from 50t) to my felt Z35.will i have to make any adjustments to the front derailleur ?
thanks0 -
I have done a number of sportives this year on my Bianchi 928 C2C carbon The last two being the Devil Ride and Rocko Roller. My set up has been 50/34 and 11-25. I managed to get around all the routes successfully (Sliver award both) but I really had to work at them. The Devils Staircase was very hard with a few 25% climbs and living in Norfolk it is not easy to train for
Fortunately my fitness can compensate for lack of gears for now. But on the wrong side of 50 I have decided to change my set up.
I now have on order the new Shimano wheels (Dura Ace 7859 CL wheels) and a new cassette of 12-27. That should see me OK for next years sportives.
Bryan0 -
I spin at circa 105 rpm and run triples with a 12-27 cassette.
Used to run 53/42 as a boy and wrecked my knees.
Have tried compacts but found the gap between 34 & 50 just annoyingly big. Tried a 38/50 combo but that was a pain to change the 38 for a 34 when riding sportives.
Triples are the future imho. Pride comes before a fall and all that ;-)
Cheers
SK0
