Cyclocross shortlist.. Please help

Trigger_del

What do I go for?

Genesis Vapour
Specialized tricross comp
Kona Major Jake

I am stuck between the three... unless you want to point me in another direction to throw a spanner in the works. haha.

ride_whenever

are you planning on racing or just for fun?

jpembroke

Racing? Surely not. Does anyone actually buy a 'cross bike for racing anymore? Most common reasons for buying a cross bike these days seem to be:

1) Commuting
2) Road riding
3) Touring

Cyclocross probably comes a very distant 4th.

Go on say you're going to race? Please. It'd be so nice to know of one 'cross bike out there being used as intended.

(Kona Jake by the way......if you are going to race)

Trigger_del

It is for commuting. If I get into the racing side of things then I will get a dedicated race bike for that.

jpembroke

Perhaps you could get a commuting bike for racing on, just to even things up.

:twisted:

jedster

Personally I commute on a Planet-x Uncle John which you could add to your list. It was £800 with full 105. Nice bike.

That said, I think the tricross is a really good value package if the main use is commuting.

J

Trigger_del

Now I am thinking to go for the Scott cyclocross team bike.... I am just confused with there being so many options out there!

will3

TBH they're all much of a muchness. There have been loads of questions in various parts of t'internet asking the similar question. I don't recall anyone saying that they'd tried several over a period of time and bike x was better than bike y because of reasons a, b & c.

Pick one you like the look of that fits in a price bracket you can afford.
I ride a Vapour. It does everything I need for commuting & a bit of dirt road/bridalway riding. I don't believe that spending the extra for the Spesh or the Kona would make a jot of difference for commuting - the bits you'll wear out would just be more expensive

Once you've got it, take it off road at least once. It's fun, slightly scary and addictive.

Trigger_del

The main thing I am looking for is a 53T \11T ratio gearing. Can I upgrade from 48T to 53T easily?

will3

Trigger_del wrote:

The main thing I am looking for is a 53T \11T ratio gearing. Can I upgrade from 48T to 53T easily?

Why are you looking at cyclocross bikes then?

Trigger_del

I need a fast,robust bike. At present I am using a Giant ATX 870 mountain with slicks and currently running at 16.5MPH over 30 mile runs. But I am limited by my gearing and smaller wheels.

I will be using it to try and branch into racing, then I will buy a dedicated race bike

andrewgturnbull

Trigger_del wrote:

The main thing I am looking for is a 53T \11T ratio gearing. Can I upgrade from 48T to 53T easily?

Hi there.

Two things, 53 is too big for a cross bikes, while compacts don't really work that well either, as the inside ring is generally too small...

I've got 49/39 front rings on. Any terrain that needs less than 39:25 and you'd be faster running. A 49 big ring lets you stay in that ring for longer, as you don't want to be chaning your front derailleur too often. By the end of a race, with everything clogged up with mud you really can't rely on the front changer working as you line up the sprint! Better to have one chainring that you can stay in for longer.

Of course if all you want to do on this bike is commute, then you don't need a cross bike...

Cheers, Andy

ps My recommendation is to phone Paul Milnes (Bradford), tell him your budget and he'll build you a better racing bike then any of the one's you've quoted. (e.g. I bought an X-wing, with Ultegra, Frogglegs and Open Pros for £1k + vat).

Sea_Green_Incorruptible

As others have implied; why go with a cx bike at all, particularly as you're after big gearing? It will inevitably be a compromise of sorts.

Normal road bikes seem to have this reputation for being delicate.... and its just not the case. Get a pair of good strong road wheels like Mavic Aksiums with 700c x 25 tyres and you'll be amazed at the punishment it can take. And like for like, it'll also burn off any cx bike you compare it to on the tarmac.

The only reason I'd ever consider a cx bike would be if I had a fast road commute with extended sections off road (and they'd have to be really off road, not just the odd bit of potholed tarmac or a short stretch of gravel - most roadies can handle this no problem).

Trigger_del

My commute will be through woods for a bit and the roads around my area and work are very poor. I dont think race wheelsets would be robust enough if I did veer into the odd pothole and wooded paths.

My last race bike couldn't withstand potholes thats is why I am unsure regarding the race bike.

Thanks for helping me

Trigger_del

What would be a good race bike for between 1K to 1.5K to accompany the Mavic Aksiums with 700c x 25 tyres?

will3

I would be very supprised if the terrain is poor enough to need a CX bike, you will be able to use 53x11. Otherwise CX riders would be using 53x11. Hell it's hard enough using that on a good flat tarmaced road.

100%

I'll be interested to see what you go for on this.

I've got a Kinesis CrossLight 4T that I really like, and commute on. I'm hoping to have a go in the "fun" category of a cross race this autumn/winter - I think I've persuaded a mate to join in too.

I like riding it to work for the training though - not fit enough yet for a cross race!

I've come to the conslusion though that the wheels are the weakness in this - on reflection, a good road frame with good/strong wheels I think would have fared just as well and probably been faster.

Despite being a cyclocross specific machine, the unbranded front hub has falied after 3 months of punishment on the rough roads. The Shimano 105 on the rear is absolutely fine. Still, at least the shop are sorting it out under warranty.

Cheers,
Steve

jedster

hang on, the main reason I bought a cross bike over a roadbike was because I wanted to run 28mm tyres, full sks guards and a rack - good things for all year round commuting

now I know that I could have probably managed that with a tourer or an audax bike but I think the geometry of a crosser is a bit more fun than a tourer for two 10 mile blasts a day. I wouldn't have been opposed to an audax bike but just thought crossers were a well priced package.

By the way, my bike came with a 50/39/30 triple but it was easy to swap chain rings and adjust the mech for 52/42/30. My biggest gear is 52 x 12 and that is definitely more than enough - if you are not racing competitively I can't believe you sensibly use 53x11

J

jpembroke

53x11 to ride through the woods? Oh, Come on, please. Lets just admit it, 'cross bikes are currently sexy. There seem to be a lot of people on this forum trying to convince themselves that they need one when in actual fact something like a Ribble Audax or a Planet X Kaffenback would be far more appropriate.

Trigger_del

This bike is to be used all year round for commuting along poor standard of roads (10% in woods or canal paths) and for leisure at weekends (coastal rides)

If i was to get a road bike what wheelsets would you suggest to get to cope with the above riding?

jpembroke

cross bikes generally use road wheels, btw - I have aksiums on mine. Some do take wheels built on MTB hubs though.

andrewgturnbull

100% wrote:

I've got a Kinesis CrossLight 4T that I really like, and commute on. I'm hoping to have a go in the "fun" category of a cross race this autumn/winter - I think I've persuaded a mate to join in too.

I like riding it to work for the training though - not fit enough yet for a cross race!

Hi there.

All cx races are fun! As for being fit enough - it doesn't matter. In a road race if you're not fit enough you get dropped and end up riding 50 miles to the finish on your own, then find they've packed away and gone home when you get there...

In a cross race (3 peaks excepted) you're usually racing over a 2-3k long loop. You'll ride 60 mins plus a lap, or something. So at worst you'll finish 10 minutes after the leaders. You might be 3 laps down, but you're never on your own!

FWIW I bought a cross bike for bad weather commuting (winter route is 10 mile on road then 20 miles on rough towpaths). I didn't race on the bike the whole first year. The bike is not ideal for commuting - no bottle cage, no pannier rack eyelets, no space for mudguards and crap brakes when use on the road. Still, with a mtb mud flap, a rucsac and camelbak it's all possible.

However, I convince myself that my commuting is actually training, hence the reason that I use my TT bike, my cross bike, my track bike and my road bike just to get to work! They're all true race bikes, and they've all won races...

Ride what you like - it's your money!

Cheers, Andy

jedster

jpembroke,

The guys at px actually recommended the uncle john to me when I told them what it the bike would be for.

I know that a kaffenback would be just as good but why would it be better than the UJ? At the time their best deals were UJ/105 for 799 or kaffenback/ultegra for 999. I didn't think I needed to spend the extra 200...

I suspect the kaffenback really comes into its own for long rides but 90% of my miles are commuting.

J

Sea_Green_Incorruptible

@jpembroke;

As my earlier post suggested, my own view is that for most urban commutes - and certainly my own - a roadie is the business.

However, I CAN see why people who have some rough bits on their commute - or want to use their bikes off-road at the weekends - would fancy a CX bike. In this context, is there any reason NOT to buy one? E.g. do they have any really major disadvantages (apart perhaps from speed on the tarmac) over say an audax bike or roadie with fat tyres?

Not having a dig by the way. Just interested to know...

ride_whenever

if you pop slicks on then there is almost no difference.

jpembroke

I currently own an Uncle John, which is used for 'cross racing and training, and I used to own a Kaffenback, which I used for commuting. The kaffenback was a great bike, really versatile, perfect geometry, lovely steel frame (like my Inbred MTB) and a damn sight easier to fit guards to than an Uncle John (no chainstay bridge on an Uncle John). Also, the Uncle John has a very high bottom bracket: great for rolling over rough terrain, mud, long grass etc, but has sod all standover clearance for me (I have the medium size and I'm 5' 9") which makes for interesting mounts and dismounts. Plus I get brake judder on the Uncle John (quite common on 'cross bikes) which I never got on the steel Kaffenback (both used Tektro Oryx cantis).

Of all the bikes/frames I have ever sold my biggest regret was selling the Kaffenback (original Blue Dragon decals too )

jedster

The kaffenback was a great bike, really versatile, perfect geometry, lovely steel frame (like my Inbred MTB) and a damn sight easier to fit guards to than an Uncle John (no chainstay bridge on an Uncle John).

You're right about the chainstay bridge of course but all you need is a little plastic thing that SKS make - basically a clamp on chainstay bridge. Pas de problem.

Also, the Uncle John has a very high bottom bracket: great for rolling over rough terrain, mud, long grass etc, but has sod all standover clearance for me (I have the medium size and I'm 5' 9") which makes for interesting mounts and dismounts.

Ah, fair point. I'm also 5'9" and on a medium. It doesn't have that much standover clearance, now you come to mention it. I might find that inconvenient if I was riding it in London. I use it on a semi-rural/suburban commute and probably only have to put a foot down an average of once in 10 miles - not really an issue.

Plus I get brake judder on the Uncle John (quite common on 'cross bikes) which I never got on the steel Kaffenback (both used Tektro Oryx cantis).

Why would brake judder be common on cx bikes? I've not had a problem with that. My bike as on-one cantis which I don't think are great but my issue has been stopping power rather than judder. I seem to have fixed the problem with a switch to some Avid cartridge blocks.

J

Sea_Green_Incorruptible

PS and to actually answer your question, if you're going for a CX then I'd go for the Kona and hang the mudguards! I mean, have you SEEN the thing. It's gorgeous.

jpembroke

Brake judder is terrible on the Tricross, for example. Google it. Not sure why brake judder is bad on my Uncle John: it's all set up right (checked the headset etc etc). Have changed the pads and tightened up the canti hanger, which has improved things a bit. Usually the fork is the culprit though (I have a PX full carbon rather than the red Uncle John fork, which I believe has an alloy steerer).

I had those On One Cantis on my Pompino. Worst brakes I have ever used. Swapped them for Oryx and never looked back.

Still, the Uncle John has certainly proved it's worth in races. Came 6th in my last one, which I was very pleased with.

bluecow

Id go for the tricross (in fact i already have one) but change the tyres that come with it as they are RUBBISH. The brakes arent too hot either. But apart from that, fairly decent gear ratios and feels solid over potholes (not that i make a habit of it).
I prob wouldnt use it for racing though.