Need help servicing my shimano rear hub.

Noel PT
Noel PT Posts: 627
edited July 2008 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi Guys,

Done most of the basic stuff no probs, but once I have removed the casset I can't seem to get any further. How do I remove the part that the casset fits onto. Normally I put the large allen key into the hub and loosen it or it just pulls off, but that is not the case with this hub.

Anyone got any ideas
www.ttspersonaltraining.co.uk

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    it is all explained on park tools, linky below.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Noel PT
    Noel PT Posts: 627
    I tried the parks tools way, but there is no where for he hex wrench to attach, its completely smooth on the inside of the hub.....? :?
    www.ttspersonaltraining.co.uk
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    it must do. what is the hub?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • TonyS
    TonyS Posts: 104
    Don't think the usual bike multitools have a large enough hex spanner, they usually stop around 10mm and I think you need 12mm but as said check the park site.
  • Noel PT
    Noel PT Posts: 627
    Yip, my wrench is to small (hmmmm) No nasty jokes..... :roll:

    I expected the indentations to be more prominent, but after clearing the grease I realized they slight and I need a bigger hex. But all is good and I have learn't something thanks guys.

    Another question if you don't mind. I was thinking of buying a XT m760 or m765 and replacing the damaged free hub, cones and bearing of my existing m475 with the new ones, but wanted to keep the existing housing cause nothing seems to be worn and it will save me £50 cause I wont need to get the new hub laced in.

    I hope that made sense.

    thanks
    www.ttspersonaltraining.co.uk
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    most shimano freehubs are cross compatable so there should be no issues.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Noel PT
    Noel PT Posts: 627
    thanks mate, thats what I was hoping for.
    www.ttspersonaltraining.co.uk
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    the only thing to watch out for is the race finish and the bearings used. harder race finish will need harder bearings. and the original will not.
    Now i dont know how this effects things in real life but in theory well.....

    i would do it and just check and service often.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Splasher
    Splasher Posts: 1,528
    I wouldn't worry about the hardness of your balls :wink: . Joking aside, the best situation you can have is for the balls to be less hard than the races so that in the event of lube failure (age or washed out) the balls are consumed in preference to the races.
    "Internet Forums - an amazing world where outright falsehoods become cyber-facts with a few witty key taps and a carefully placed emoticon."

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