Pedals?

Mdwnn7
Mdwnn7 Posts: 7
edited July 2008 in MTB beginners
I've just brought a full sus Stumpjumper but can not get on with the clip in pedals

Any suggestion to what flat pedals I should add,
Or is that sacrilege?

Comments

  • delcol
    delcol Posts: 2,848
    another flat vs spds thread :roll:

    il go first be patient with your clipless pedals the pros out weigh the cons in the long run.

    they are daunting at first but after time you get used to them and you will love them .

    yes you will have tumbles at first yes you will look and feel silly gracefully toppling over sideways we all done it.

    but when you matsered them and your confidence is high and you just powered up that technical climb you wont regret it....

    as fora decent set of flats
    dmr v8s good bidget peds or v12s
    crankbrothers 5050s
    welgro make a copy of the v8s thats cheap and ok.

    i would say stick with clips they the way forward..

    cue the next debate. :shock:
  • gazzer1966
    gazzer1966 Posts: 277
    Crank Brother 50 50 pedals are the way to go imo.
    hi peeps
  • mcbazza
    mcbazza Posts: 251
    The 5050's are good pedals. But, spend the extra and go for the 5050xx's, they have sealed cartridge bearings, whereas the others are loose BB's. And while you are at it, get the long pin kit.Only downside is, it's quite a high-profile (deep) pedal. But, huge platform.

    Personally, I've switched to DMR V12 mags for the Stumpy - predictable, but, a great pedal. Going to be fitting 'terror pins' (long pin kit) soon. It's my trail-only bike, so I tend to only ride it with pads on. So, the risk of raking my shins is reduced.

    Have Specialized Lo Pro II Mags on my 'other' bike. A truly amazing pedal. Thinner than the DMR V12's, and much thinner than the 5050's. But, can you get replacement pins for them? Can you feck. Wish I hadn't bought them now.
    Stumpy, Rockhopper (stolen!) & custom SX Trail II - that should do it!
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    gazzer1966 wrote:
    Crank Brother 50 50 pedals are the way to go imo.

    Certainly are - pimptastic!
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  • Chris`I
    Chris`I Posts: 206
    V8/V12s are always a safe bet. I had V8s on my Rockhopper before I switched to SPDs. Some days I wish I still had platforms, but on the whole SPDs are excellent. Depending on what you ride, I'd stick with SPDs a bit longer and if you really dont get on with them then swap em up for some platforms.
    2010 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Comp
    2010 Specialized Tricross Sport (commuter)
    2012 Boardman Road Team
  • ratty2k
    ratty2k Posts: 3,872
    I'll beat 'sonic to it and say whilst you are trying things out, get the Wellgo V8 clones. Cheaper, just as good. I ride with Gusset slim Jim pedals. Heard not nice things about the 50:50's mainly due to the shape with the axle bit protruding under your foot. Then again I dont have them so what do I know?! :lol:
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  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    ratty2k wrote:
    Heard not nice things about the 50:50's mainly due to the shape with the axle bit protruding under your foot. Then again I dont have them so what do I know?! :lol:

    ??? Not the case at all - the pedalling surfaces are more or less completely flat!
    Give a home to a retired Greyhound. Tia Greyhound Rescue
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  • NYK
    NYK Posts: 30
    Defo stick with the spd's they are woth it in the end. Just make sure that the first time you ride with a group of total strangers you dont forget to un-clip early the first time you stop. Yeah, now thats embarassing!
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    use flats until you get used to the bike, and have learned basic skills. Taking these through to spds in the future will make you a better rider than starting just on spds - you can pick up lazy habits. Wellgo the way to go.
  • mcbazza
    mcbazza Posts: 251
    dave_hill wrote:
    ratty2k wrote:
    Heard not nice things about the 50:50's mainly due to the shape with the axle bit protruding under your foot. Then again I dont have them so what do I know?! :lol:

    ??? Not the case at all - the pedalling surfaces are more or less completely flat!
    It's true, the axle does bulge out of the pedal chassis slightly. But, like Dave says, the surface is pretty much flat. Flat enough that you wouldn't notice. I know many manufacturers make a song and dance about their pedal surfaces being concave. Besides, it's a Crank Bros product. Do they sell a duffer?

    The nice thing about the 5050's is that the allen key for the pins is on the rear of the plates (which are removeable). Which means that no matter how much action the 5050's see, you can still get the pins out to replace them.

    That said, I wouldn't go back to them. Great pedal. Just, heavy, and v.thick (in profile). Plus, the tapered pins of the 5050's just don't dig into your soles as well as the grub screws on the V12's (and similar) do.

    The only time my 5050's gave me trouble was when I was daft enough to use my riding shoes with the cleats fitted - which did clatter against the tiny axle bulge, and reduce my grip.
    Stumpy, Rockhopper (stolen!) & custom SX Trail II - that should do it!
  • Mdwnn7
    Mdwnn7 Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info
    I'll let you know what I buy, and how it turns out...

    Mick
  • janwal
    janwal Posts: 489
    If you don't like clips try these they are very good .http://bicycledesign.blogspot.com/2007/ ... grips.html
    Got mine from EDinburgh cycles £20.Give you the power but are easy to get out of and can be used with any shoe.
  • Amos
    Amos Posts: 438
    Another vote for DMR pedals here!
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    dave_hill wrote:
    gazzer1966 wrote:
    Crank Brother 50 50 pedals are the way to go imo.

    Certainly are - pimptastic!

    I am now going to completely revise my opinions of Crank bros 5050 X pedals. They might look sweet but in actual fact they're a crock of 5h1t.

    Reasons for my change of heart? After one commute to work (7 miles there and back) both pedals had worked their bearings loose, so Saturday morning was spent rebuilding the sods and boy was that a bastard job - the "outboard" bearing is actually situated well within the body and holding the cone steady while you tighten the locknut is all but impossible. It's just a case of trial and error.

    But it doesn't end there. The left pedal now has a tight spot as it spins - if I slacken the locknut off any, there's too much play in the bearings. You can't feel it when you're pedalling but it annoys the bejesus out of me knowing its there!

    The seal on the spindle is a joke - it's little more than a very flimsy rubber washer and wouldn't keep water in, let alone out.

    But worst of the lot, the 5050 X's do NOT come with Crank Bros traction pins as claimed, but boggo grub screws.

    Save your money, get something decent. Like Wellgo B29s, they're miles better!
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  • shin0r
    shin0r Posts: 555
    Pedals, saddles and handlebar grips; your three contact points with your bike. There is no "best", it's all down to personal choice.

    For me: v12's, SDG Bel Air and RF Good n Evil do the job.