Hartail Frame Help Needed

hitchen92
hitchen92 Posts: 264
edited July 2008 in MTB buying advice
Hi

So.. a brief introduction, I'm 15 and really i've been into extreme XC riding for around a year, and I've got a modified Scott Voltage with Hope Pro2 hubs on Singletrack rims, Hope m4 brakes F & R and Marzocchi XC500 100mm travel forks but I think its time I get a new frame as i've been told many times "you can't polish a ____"! So im looking to spend a further £300-£400 on a frame, and i'm not bothered if its 2nd hand or new, but new would be nice! I'm looking for something which looks good, strong but also lightweight. It will also need to have the correct geomentry for my 100mm travel forks if possible. Help would be apprectiated!

Thanks

Kris

Comments

  • RichMTB
    RichMTB Posts: 599
    There are lots of good alloy frames arround that price, It really depends on what you want form the bike.

    I'm guessing with 100mm forks you will be doing mainly XC stuff

    The Kenisis Maxlight is pretty popular

    OR| if you are interested in a steel frame Kona Explosive or Cove Handjob are both in your price range.

    Alternatively check out E-bay there is normally plenty of choice in second handframes
    Step in to my hut! - Stumpy Jumpy Pacey
  • hitchen92
    hitchen92 Posts: 264
    So what is the main differences between the steel and alloy frames? Is it more than just weight and strength?
  • kegs
    kegs Posts: 204
    the ride is different too, steel tends to feel springier than aluminium, and decent steel frames aren't all that much heavier than ally. 853 frames can be scary light (probably out of your price range though, unless you can find a Cotic Soul available secondhand).

    Steel can be repaired alot more easily the alloy and, if taken care of, will last a lot longer too.

    I think on-one have had a restock recently, so you could get a geared inbred or a 456, and still have plenty of cash for bits and pieces. They should be getting some Scandals in soon too, if you want something even lighter. The inbred and 456 are steel, the scandal is scandium (aluminium scandium alloy can be used to build lighter frames than standard ally).

    If you can find one, Cotic Souls are great steel hardtails, and the handjob and explosif frames are supposed to be great too.

    Steel is cooler the ally anyway ;)
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    rock lobster 853 can be had for 300 quid. Steel frames at this price are generally a pound heavier than the best alloy hardtails for the same money. Zaskar worth looking at, as is the lobster tig sl.
  • Chaka Ping
    Chaka Ping Posts: 1,451
    If you're doing "extreme XC", I'd suggest getting a frame like the On-One 456 or Cove Handjob that can handle a 100mm fork, but can go up to 130mm, 140mm or 150mm if required.

    There are several alu alternatives - usually more expensive - but £300-400 will buy you a very good steel frame new or virtually any alu frame you want in good nick second hand.

    Personally, I'd say get a new 456 (says here they're due in stock end August)...
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=22752

    That'll cost you £150 and you can spend the rest on upgrades - maybe even get a Rock Shox Revelation U-Turn fork to go on it for just a few quid over your original budget.
  • kegs
    kegs Posts: 204
    Looks like the 456s are landing either tomorrow or weds, so if you get one direct from
    on-one you could have it by the end of the week/early next week ;)
  • Surf-Matt
    Surf-Matt Posts: 5,952
    hitchen92 wrote:
    So what is the main differences between the steel and alloy frames? Is it more than just weight and strength?

    Steel - bit of bounce/spring which some like, lasts forever, easy to weld, heavyish, expensive for a good one since steel prices went mad - poor steel is VERY poor, good steel is superb but pricey. No problems with fatigue or stress cracking. Can be ridden fully rigid as there is some in-built "spring"

    Aluminium - lighter but weaker as a material so needs beefing up (hence why alu frames are always fatter), harder to weld, can stress crack/fatigue over time, always lighter and makes for a stiffer ride - suspension fork essential.

    I have two steel framed MTBs (one quite high end) and two aluminium framed ones (one mid range, one quite high end) and like them all for different reasons. One of the steel framed bikes is now 14 years old and still physically sound. The alu bikes are too new to assess for fatigue yet.
  • dave_hill
    dave_hill Posts: 3,877
    With that budget I'd definitely be looking at the On-One 456. £157 aren't they? That would leave you with some extra wonga for othe bits too!
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  • Surf-Matt
    Surf-Matt Posts: 5,952
    That On-One frame is stupidly good value for money!

    A mate has one and it's very good too.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    456 aint that light though, and if using a 100mm fork would be better off with a standard inbred.
  • Splasher
    Splasher Posts: 1,528
    Charge Duster
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  • definitely the Cotic if yo can stretch your budget, worth spending the extra cash where it counts, seems your components deserve it........ On-One's are good for the cash tho....
  • I certainly would recomend the on One 456.
    Great frame. I am totally delighted with mine.
    Great value too and mine arrived only 2 days after I ordered it.