replacing an 'italian thread' BB?

yanto

Not touched me bike for yonks and find my BB has play. Its not a cassette type jobby from what i can see but suspect its an italian thread something or another. Any clues what this is and how to get the f***** out?!
ta

Monty Dog

Most BBs have the thread sizes and arrows marked 36mm x 24TPI - indicating the direction of tightening - a BS thread is shown in inches. If the arrow on the drive-side cup is pointing clockwise, then it's an Italian BB. Italian BB shells are also 70mm wide whereas a BS shell is 68mm. When refitting, worth putting Loctite on the drive cup to stop it unscrewing under pedal load.

yanto

what tool to shift it?

geoff_ss

yanto wrote:

what tool to shift it?

A Campag fixed cup spanner? But I think there's a variety of sizes for fixed cup side BB, just as there's various sizes for the adjustable side. You could always put the cup flats in a vice and turn the frame.

As Monty says, Italian BB have 2 RH threads. British, and I'm 90% certain French, have a LH thread on the right/fixed cup side, so be sure which way you try to turn it.

Geoff

yanto

which is what I've been trying to explain- its does not look like a conventional set-up - help!!

Monty Dog

Really need to know the make and possibly model of BB - there are countless different types each requiring a different tool /tools- traditional designs use a lockring and floating cup on non-drive side, whereas cartridge types either use a splined tool over the spindle, or a notched tool engaging the outside of the cups. Posting a photo will probably help

Rob Sallnow

yanto wrote:

which is what I've been trying to explain-

Well clearly not very well.

Unless your bike is really old or low quality you will have one of three basic types of cup.



^ Driveside cup is on the left, otherside on the right....you'll need three tools, one for the cup on the drive side, one that fits the notched lockring and one peg tool for the cup.



^ This style uses one notched tool for both sides



^ This style is for a cartridge bracket which you say you don't have....the cup has splines round the axle..and can be flush in the frame, flat but with a lip...or in this case slightly countersunk but with a lip...you need the correct splined tool to remove.

Does your bracket have any manufacturers name on it?

nicklouse

or if a shimano cartridge bb then a shinamo bb tool.

Or if it is new and using external bearing cups on of the HT2/X type spanners will be needed.

Got a picture of the set up?

Or make model and year?

Rob Sallnow

nicklouse wrote:

Or if it is new and using external bearing cups on of the HT2/X type spanners will be

Indeed, though he did say he hadn't touched it in yonks....external bearings are a recent invention.

nicklouse

Rob Sallnow
true but just to cover all the bases , as we are all guessing at what it might be

and those of us that know what makes an italian bb know that all it is is the threads and the fact that the Italians decided to use the right thread on both cups.

Rob Sallnow

nicklouse wrote:

Rob Sallnow
and the fact that the Italians decided to use the right thread on both cups.

What-ah mistake-ah to make-ah!!

yanto

Rob Sallnow wrote:

yanto wrote:

which is what I've been trying to explain-

Well clearly not very well.

Unless your bike is really old or low quality you will have one of three basic types of cup.



^ Driveside cup is on the left, otherside on the right....you'll need three tools, one for the cup on the drive side, one that fits the notched lockring and one peg tool for the cup.





^ This style uses one notched tool for both sides



^ This style is for a cartridge bracket which you say you don't have....the cup has splines round the axle..and can be flush in the frame, flat but with a lip...or in this case slightly countersunk but with a lip...you need the correct splined tool to remove.

Does your bracket have any manufacturers name on it?

Ok Ok - its the second one down - where you say one tool is need - which tool? Thanks

Rob Sallnow

Well I'm not going to play 'guess the make of yanto's bottom bracket' you'll have to tell us what it says on the cups...then we'll be able to tell you what tool.

yanto

Rob Sallnow wrote:

Well I'm not going to play 'guess the make of yanto's bottom bracket' you'll have to tell us what it says on the cups...then we'll be able to tell you what tool.

campag - so which tool to remove?
ta

Rob Sallnow

In that case you need the ludicrously priced http://www.parker-international.co.uk/P ... 61efacad41 ...which at £31 is nearly three times the price of the bracket you are removing.

andyp

Rob Sallnow wrote:

In that case you need the ludicrously priced http://www.parker-international.co.uk/P ... 61efacad41 ...which at £31 is nearly three times the price of the bracket you are removing.

I'd get the Park BBT-4 tool. It's far superior (and cheaper too);

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=16523

Rob Sallnow

Then problem solved....I'm surprised I missed that one as I was looking out for a Park version....but it is there at Parker too for £5.95 if I'd looked better.

andyp

I've got both and the Campag one is a bastard to use. The Park one is better but I've given up on that style of BB now and use the Centaur or Chorus cartridge model as it's much easier to fit and remove.

Rob Sallnow

Indeed...and they use the same tool as the cassette's lockring.

yanto

so if i change to a different BB (cartridge) Then It'll still work with a square taper?

nicklouse

yanto wrote:

so if i change to a different BB (cartridge) Then It'll still work with a square taper?

in a word yes. but you will need the correct taper and the correct axle length.

I am aware of 2 different tapers... Othere will know the ins and outs, But for now what are your cranks?

Rob Sallnow

yanto wrote:

so if i change to a different BB (cartridge) Then It'll still work with a square taper?

Assuming you are using a Campag crank then I recommend a Centaur bracket...very nice quality, hollow axle but is nearly 3 tiimes the price of a Veloce level bracket.