Changing gears smoothly: big ring to small ring
jeepie
Posts: 497
This is potentially a really dumb noob question, but here goes....
I have a Bianchi Alu-Carbo via Nirone 105 road bike which I've had for two years and love to bits.
I have a double with Shimano group set: two front rings, one large (L) and one small (S). On each of these front rings I think I've got 10 smaller gears on the back rings. So let's say S 1 - 10 (small ring) L 1- 10 (large ring). On L10 I have to push much harder than I do on S10.
Now what puzzles me is this: When I'm climbing a monster hill I will start on the big ring say L4 and start to shift down as the pain and incline increases, L3, L2, L1. Here's my problem. When I move down front rings from L1 I go immediately to S1. S1 is way too low! I really lose my rhythm and have to try to change up 9 gears when really eyes out...Is there a way to go L2, L1, S10, S9?
Sorry dazed and confused about this.....am I missing something or is this just a fact of life?
Really appreciate any advice about how to climb more smoothly....
I have a Bianchi Alu-Carbo via Nirone 105 road bike which I've had for two years and love to bits.
I have a double with Shimano group set: two front rings, one large (L) and one small (S). On each of these front rings I think I've got 10 smaller gears on the back rings. So let's say S 1 - 10 (small ring) L 1- 10 (large ring). On L10 I have to push much harder than I do on S10.
Now what puzzles me is this: When I'm climbing a monster hill I will start on the big ring say L4 and start to shift down as the pain and incline increases, L3, L2, L1. Here's my problem. When I move down front rings from L1 I go immediately to S1. S1 is way too low! I really lose my rhythm and have to try to change up 9 gears when really eyes out...Is there a way to go L2, L1, S10, S9?
Sorry dazed and confused about this.....am I missing something or is this just a fact of life?
Really appreciate any advice about how to climb more smoothly....
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Comments
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You should try to avoid using cross over gears - that's big chainring big sprocket or little-little. Using your language try to avoid "L1" and "S10"
When you shift from the big chainring to the little chainring, you need to shift up a couple of gears at the rear to keep the right cadence.0 -
Cool. Cheers Red Dragon - will give that a whirl!0
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Some of the gears overlap by the way, 50/19 and 36/14 are both roughly the same gear. so if you went "L1" and changed all the way through to "S10" you are actually going to larger gear rather than a small gear.
When you change at the front, you only need to change at the rear by 2 or 3.0 -
yeah - I've not really worked out the gear ratio stuff yet e.g. 50/34. Need to have a good old read when time permits. I am getting more knowledgeable thanks to this forum though! so thanks for your help!0
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You may be on the flat in L10, as the hill approachs go L9, L8, L7, etc until into about L4, at this point move to S4, depending on the terrain, you may have to go to S5 or higher and then back down the gears as the hill steepens, possibly ending up in S1. You should never really do L10, L9, L8 etc all the way into L1, there'd be a point where the chain/gears are making noise which you would have avoided if you'd have into S sooner, if your gears/chain is sounding noisy at any point it's probably 'cause you've got it in a gear combo that it doesn't like (i.e. not really designed for). Arguably (for chain/gears longevity) avoid L1/2/3 ish and S 9/10 as these will inflict a decently bent chain line.0
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Great. Cheers Phil.... Will definitely try to adjust my technique... It does crunch down to S1 which I loathe so yeah - just need need to try that method. Thanks.0
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What I did was to work out my gears in proper ratios so that I could really understand them. (why does cycling still have a method based on the penny farthing, it's crazy) . As someone else said though, when you go down on the big ring shift up a couple on the small ring at th eback, the jump will be managable.0
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In addition to the advice received so far:
If you think you need to be in the smaller ring at the front, change down BEFORE the hill. Trying to do that under load will make it CRUNCH!
When changing down (e.g. from S2 to S1), you should 'soft pedal'. Instead of mashing down on the pedals you need to go very soft at the moment you move the lever across. This helps reduce the load on the gears and results in a smoother, less clunky, shift.
It's all to do with timing and feel and something you'll need to practice. In time it will come natuarally without needing to think about it.0 -
Tried this out at the weekend and was definitely getting the CRUNCH reported before, but now just lovely and smooth change. So thanks for the advice.
Basically, as the hill steepens, double slap up on the small rings with the right hand and then change down with the left. Perfect.
It's a bit weird to change up to change down, but makes perfect sense now.
Thanks0