Wheel removal on a Fox Vans 36 Fork?

Zabanero
Zabanero Posts: 3
edited July 2008 in MTB beginners
I have acquired my first new to me bike since 1990 and I am a total novice when it comes to bike mechanics. I have taken the advice regarding looking for the manuals for the forks but I have been unable to find the tiny bit of critical info I need. The forks on the bike are Fox Vans 36 -160. How do I remove the front wheel? Probably a really stupid qiestion but the solution isn't obvious. Thanks to anyone who can help.

Comments

  • god1406
    god1406 Posts: 554
    undo the pinch bolts and then slide the axle out.

    EDIT: is there a quick release lever? My above advice assumes that the fork is pre '07 ish and therefore bolted.
    (pinch bolts are the two bolts that clamp the axle either side, at the base of the fork)
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    open the clamping levers on the leg lowers. unfold the axle lever and unwind.

    IE the reverse of the fitting info in the manual.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    If they are a 2007 model or older then it is a case of -

    FIRST undoing the 5mm pinch bolts either side of your wheel, winding these out until they wobble loose is a good idea as the lowers of these forks are quite fragile ( I know from previous bad experiences)

    Then on one side, the forks axle will have a 5mm allen key slot and its literally a case of winding the axle anti clockwise (it is threaded on one side, but is a very short thread)

    Once you feel no more resistance from a thread, you can literally pull the axle straight through.

    the wheel will then be free to be removed.

    OK, if you need any more specific guidance then go onto either mojo or fox's website and download the user manual as a PDF

    just remember.. when your putting your wheel back in, tighten your axle first.. then tighten your pinch bolts, the pinch bolts should be done up to a very low torque, (grip the allen key from the short end and just nip them up)

    You still want to be able to see a gap between the two sides of the lowers, if there is no gap.. they'll most likely crack.
  • schmako
    schmako Posts: 1,982
    Once you've done it a few times it'll become second nature, I just do it these days - no thought involved.
  • Zabanero
    Zabanero Posts: 3
    Thank you to all who replied...the advice about not over-tightening the pinch bolts is sage.

    There is a "quicker release" system on the rear wheel (sort of ) but the front wheel does require the 5mm Allen key.

    Having now replaced the inner tubes in both tires I have mastered the wheel removal process -- at home -- this seems like it could be a major hassle on a mountain side in the rain!

    I have noticed that the ratchet mechanism in the rear hub seems to click quite loudly when free-wheeling is this to be expected? The bike is an Orange Patriot - it's White so I think it is a 2007 possible 2006 model

    Cheers!
  • mcbazza
    mcbazza Posts: 251
    Zabanero wrote:
    I have noticed that the ratchet mechanism in the rear hub seems to click quite loudly when free-wheeling is this to be expected?
    Probably have Hope Pro II hubs - in which case, it's perfectly normal!
    They're great when you come up behind walkers. Just start freewheeling from quite a way back. They'll turn round to see what the racket is, and get out of your way.
    Think of it is a built-in 'feature'. ;)
    Stumpy, Rockhopper (stolen!) & custom SX Trail II - that should do it!