Need A New Chain!!!

steve23
steve23 Posts: 2,202
edited July 2008 in Workshop
so.....

my current chain has seen a fair few miles on it, and i think its time I changed it, as its a tad stretched too!

but looking at the online sites, theres so much choice of what to buy!

i dont want to break the bank, but i need a decent chain for my best bike, which is used for a lot of racing, plus training aswel!

ive heard a lot about KMC chains? anyone any info?

i run 10speed 105 if that matters?

thanks
_______________________________________________________________________________________
If You Can't Cut It With The Big Dogs, Then Don't Pi$$ Up The Tall Trees!

Comments

  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    IMHO 10 speed chains are 10 speed chains. I tend to buy whatever mid to high price
    chain is on sale. I do like the ones that have a REUSUABLE master link. Other than that
    I see no difference. Keep them lubed and reasonably clean and any one of them will last
    as long as any other.

    Dennis Noward
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    I recommend the KMC chains, I've got one on all my road bikes.

    http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/?fn=produ ... goryId=117

    Merlin seem to have the cheapest 10speed KMC chain at the moment, I've just bought four of them.
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  • James_London
    James_London Posts: 530
    I second Red Dragon - I had three KMC's arrive from Merlin this morning.

    You can't beat £10 for the basic X10 or £20 for the X10 SL when you buy three. I want to hear if you can find cheaper anyhow...

    They've run fine for me on Campag, SRAM and Shimano 10 speed.
  • fluff.
    fluff. Posts: 771
    Another vote for KMC, replaced a not that worn Shimano chain on a 9 speed system with an X10, and it was near as dammit silent, plus they come with a powerlink instead of that black pin business.
  • nic_77
    nic_77 Posts: 929
    I recently bought a SRAM 10 speed chain - it was running very well, until I snapped a pin trying to climb Winnat's Pass a couple of weekends ago on a trip to the Peak District. Given that this resulted in a failed attempt to remove my nads with the bar stem... I shan't be buying another one!

    To add insult to (eyewatering) injury I had to call the girlfriend to pick me up!
  • Use the chain that is recommended by the manufacturer of your gear system. Remember that all of these things are engineered to work as just that - a system ... and just because something works perfectly "now", that may not be true when wear and tear set in.

    Speaking of wear and tear, if your chain is worn, you'll probably need to change the cassette, too - the two will wear in sympathy with other.
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Graeme_F_K wrote:
    Use the chain that is recommended by the manufacturer of your gear system.

    Why?

    Of course Shimano recommend a Shimano chain, and Campagnolo recommend a Campagnolo chain - they're aren't going to recommend a rival are they? Both Shimano and Campagnolo have useless joining mechanisms.

    KMC or Wippermann chains are fine to use on Shimano/Campag systems, and the same happens as happens with the recommended chain when wear sets in.
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  • giant_man
    giant_man Posts: 6,878
    Graeme_F_K wrote:
    Use the chain that is recommended by the manufacturer of your gear system.

    Why?

    Of course Shimano recommend a Shimano chain, and Campagnolo recommend a Campagnolo chain - they're aren't going to recommend a rival are they? Both Shimano and Campagnolo have useless joining mechanisms.

    KMC or Wippermann chains are fine to use on Shimano/Campag systems, and the same happens as happens with the recommended chain when wear sets in.

    Totally agree!!! :lol:
  • Rich-Ti
    Rich-Ti Posts: 1,831
    Rohloff set out to design a chain that would work better and be stronger than any other on the market - good qualities in my book, regardless of who recommends what!
  • I use the top chain on here. It's really strong as I've had it for 3 years now and it's been out in the rain A LOT!

    http://www.nothingbutpadlocks.com/index ... es/view/22
  • Rich-Ti
    Rich-Ti Posts: 1,831
    Bikergirly wrote:
    I use the top chain on here. It's really strong as I've had it for 3 years now and it's been out in the rain A LOT!
    Wrong type of chain dude! :roll: :lol:
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Rich-Ti wrote:
    Bikergirly wrote:
    I use the top chain on here. It's really strong as I've had it for 3 years now and it's been out in the rain A LOT!
    Wrong type of chain dude! :roll: :lol:

    You sure it's a "dude"?
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  • Rich-Ti
    Rich-Ti Posts: 1,831
    You sure it's a "dude"?
    :oops:

    Erm, good spot... dammit! :oops: :lol:

    Dudette?...!! :roll: :lol:
  • I am surprised that only one person so far has addressed the worn cassette issue. A well worn chain means a well worn cassette and perhaps chainrings as well. No how good a chain you replace the old one with your drive train is going to make all kinds of noise and shift like doggie poop. Bikegirly: three years on a wet chain, you should be ashamed of yourself. Chains are stretch and wear no matter how much you lube them. Cheap to replace and will keep your bike running fresh for years. Not replacing your chain regularly results in a crappy worn drivetrain that is expensive to replace. By the way, most mid priced chains are good, it is only the poorly maintained chain that is bad.
  • I personally would go with the arguement of sticking with your groupset, if its campag , stick to campag. Chain breaks can be annoying if you are in the middle of knowhere and painful if they happen under pressure at the wrong time. Have had 2 chain snaps in 3 years and have learnt a valuble lesson. Change your chain every year and your rear cassette every 2 years. As for awkward connectors, I agree campag are awkward, if you have a good local shop support them by giving them your business and let them to do it for you, my local shop will fit anything for free as long as I order it through them.