Rebuilding my touring frame

appleday

Hello

I have a custom bicycle built in the 1980s with a Reynolds 522 double butted touring frame. I want to keep the frame and change most of the rest (except seat & post, pedals, mudguards and pannier rack).

The setup I have now is:

1a. Wheels: 27 x1.25, tandem spokes.
1b. Hubs: Bullseye.
(If the original wheels had been 700 I would keep them because in all this time I have never had to true or replace any spokes, rims or do anything with the hubs.)

2. Gears: 18 speed. Range 19-87. 6 back, 3 front. It was originally 19-100 but I had problems changing gears, so reduced the top front down to a smaller size. The sprocket set was set individually but I understand nowadays we have to buy a set decided by the manufacturer.

3. Derailleurs: Mountech originally, but this wore out and had to buy a Shimano set to replace it.

4. Handlebars: drop handlebars with gear changers (Suntour) on the tips, brake levers at drop.

5. Brakes: caliper (Shimano)

6. Bottom bracket/cranks: not sure of make but shall have to change that for new gearing.

7. Front forks: also not sure of make but people note how "antique" they look, along with the gear levers at the tips of the handlebars.

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My usage: I ride around the city commuting, socialising, shopping sometimes with heavy loads (use panniers and/or trailer), and take long rides in the country mostly on sealed roads but occasionally on unsealed/rough. The gear setup is generally too low for city cycling but I do use that really low gear when I am going up steepish hills. (Currently I walk up *really* steep hills.)
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What I want changed:

A1. Wheels: 700 x 1.25 (or thereabouts). Rebuilt with tandem spokes to take touring panniers and heavy shopping. What would be good rims (Mavic? Campagnolo?)
A2. Hubs: sealed. What brand would be suitable?

B. Gears: can anyone please advise what would be the best replacement for my setup, now that there are only pre-made rear sprocket sets. I am happy with 24 speed. Would like to keep the lowest speed, but would also like to have a higher highest speed, but this may not be possible.

C. Derailleurs: would appreciate some advice for replacement, probably an MTB type?

D. Handlebars: want straight handlebars with brake and gear levers more accessible than they are now.

E. Brakes: disc brakes

F, G. Front forks, bottom bracket/cranks: any suggestions for replacement suitable for usage.

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I want good quality and long lasting stuff. Sometimes the more expensive isn't really the best. My original chain was quite expensive but it wore out within a couple of years, but the cheap one that replaced it is still going strong.

Apologies if I have not given the correct terminology. Would *very* much appreciate any advice.

Thx

Stuck on a Giant

Appleday, have a look at some new bikes that look like they meet your needs, and note how they are specced - also that way you can be reasonably sure of getting compatible parts.

You may struggle to fit disc brakes to an old frame, unless it has disc mounts, and it may mean a new rack as it may foul the existing one. I would think, for touring, you'd be fine for stopping power with V-brakes (like MTBs), they'll be lighter and simpler than disc brakes as well.

acorn_user

Stuck on a Giant is dead right about the disc brakes. You really need posts to mount them. That would entail a trip to the frame shop. You also need really beefy stays to deal with the forces. I think you would be better off with a nice set of v-brakes. The basic Tektro ones are really nice, better than the lower level Avid ones.

As for rims, Campagnolo no longer make rims that are n't part of their factory wheelsets. CTC are currently recommending DRC or Rigida rims, although the Mavic A319 has been great in my experience.

Shimano does not make many 8 speed shifters any more. Alivio is still available, or you could try and find newer ones. Deore derailleurs are pretty nice on a touring bike. Shimano hubs would also be my choice.

I would leave the fork alone btw.

geoff_ss

I don't really think disc brakes are really necessary on a single touring bike (as opposed to a tandem) perhaps a better option would be to have cantilever pivots fitted for either cantis or V-brakes. I guess your frame needs re-enamelling anyway. It's an easy way of overcoming the extra reach you need when you change from 27" (630 mm rim) to 700c (622mm rim). I converted a Mercian frame many years ago using the same method.

Your head set is probably a threaded one so perhaps a new pair of forks is a problem. I wouldn't both changing them if the handling is OK. Just modify them for cantilevers. Fork rake needs to match head tube angle to give the right trail. You interfere with that relationship at your peril.

If you're going for flat bars then gearing is very straight forward. I have a flat-barred road bike with and ATB chainset and 9 speed road cassette (44/32/22 and 13-25 cassette) which works perfectly. Decide on what gearing you need and select a rear mech accordingly. Mine is a medium arm Shimano 105. If you want a much bigger range then you may need to choose an ATB rear mech

My wheels are home built Shimano 105 hubs with Mavic Open-Pro rims. Mine are 32 spoke but 36 is an option. With rims as stiff as the Open-Pro I don't think 13g spokes are needed. I've cycle camped extensively with standard 36 spoke wheels of good quality with no problems at all. Shimano hubs are very good with sealed cup and cone bearings so are very repairable and reliable.

Geoff

appleday

Thanks for all the suggestions.

It seems disc brakes will be a problem and unnecessary so I'll leave them out.

Altho my 27in wheels are great and I can buy tyres that fit (700 tubes fit OK anyway) I cannot get the best tyres that are available on 700 wheels, for example Armadillos.

I'd like straight handlebars because I usually ride fairly upright and the brakes and gears are not as readily available on drop handlebars as they are on straight bars. (Also it is easier to lock a bike with straight bars to barriers or iron fences - I have to hook my bars over the barriers and usually cannot use high fences at all)

The problem with changing one thing leads to others - new gear set, new brakes. If I can keep the front forks then I shall. Some bike enthusiasts like their "antique" look. Also, if I can't get disk brakes then I'll stick with what I have.

It is hard to get 18 speed gear sets nowadays - they seem to be at least 21 speed which is why I mentioned I do not mind getting more gears in the refit. Or maybe I have not looked hard enough.

robbarker

It depends on your budget. If money is no object, you could get your frame cold-set so that the spacing between the rear dropouts is 130mm for road hubs, or 135mm for mountain bike hubs. (It is probably 126mm at present but may be 120mm) The latter would be preferable for touring.

For the gear range you have talked about, a Shimano mountain bike chainset 24/34/44 and an 11-23 9 speed road cassette would be fine with mountain bike derailleurs front and rear. You'll need new bottom bracket but this is the one standard that hasn't changed! Make sure you get the right shell width and axle length for the chainset you choose - all info available on the Shimano website.

You can get wheels made up with 700c rims on XT hubs - go for 36 double butted spokes for normal light touring or use an XT tandem hub on the rear (up to 48h!) and heavier rims if you load it up.

Riser bars will be no problem but you will need suitable levers for your brakes and mountain bike shifters.

Forget disc brakes, as has been said they would be dangerous on a fork not designed for them. You will be best using Shimano deep drop callipers or Tektro callipers if required (even deeper drop - up to 71mm)

All this will cost a fortune and, while the frame justifies the expenditure providing it is still a good comfortable fit, you may be better off simply replacing worn components and keeping it as a six speed.

You can get Panaracer Pasela tyres in 27" and they are excellent, and ther are other good touring tyres still available.

My advice would be to phone SJS Cycles in Bridgewater who carry stocks of everything you will need, whichever way you choose to go. (www.sjscycles.com) They will advise on exactly what you need.