Cassete rings loose

faaj
faaj Posts: 66
edited June 2008 in MTB workshop & tech
Ok i came back from my usual trail which was incredibly muddy due to the rain yesterday. However when coming back home the mud seems to have covered the cassete and while pedalling somthing seems to have seized. As i turned the cranks the chain went round on each individual cassettering which moved by itself freely which meant as i peddalled i got nowhere!

At home when i took the rear wheel off the whole cassetes cogs and rubber rings fell out in front of my eyes. After cleaning each of them and carefully placing each ring correctly over the freehub body (Which seemed to be functioning properly and freely) i closed the lockring fingertight. The cassete seemed almost alright however the largest cogs did move back and forth abit.

Today i went cycling on the road to see how it coped, hoever when cycling uphill with a lot of force the cassete gave way again and the same story when i got home.

Well what should i do? I've read this tutorial: http://bicycletutor.com/replace-cassette-cluster/

and i can see its best i buy a new cassette and this time tighten the lockring with the lockring tool with more force. However im just wondering would i have to replace the freehub? I've looked on the net and i cant find any free hubs around all of them come attached to the whole wheel hub e.g. http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.a ... Rear%20Hub

Any ideas, id like to do this myself however if it involves changing the whole wheel hub then i guess itll be a lbs job..

THANKS!

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    i closed the lockring fingertight.

    not tight enough, get the tool and do it tight.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Sounds like the freehub is knackered. And yes, fingertight on the cassette is not enough by miles, they are torqued quite high!

    Identify your hub, and buy another one. This way not only do you get a freehub, but a replacement axle, bearings and cones. And usually works out about the same price as a freehub anyway!

    Remember 7 and 8 speed freehubs are different widths.
  • faaj
    faaj Posts: 66
    cool thanks, well atm im going to go back to the shop and see if i can claim warranty as the bike is only a few months old and i havent really bashed it up at all. Im just wondering about the free hub body, how would i get around replacing the axle? Do you mean this: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.a ... Rear%20Hub .
    Isn't this where the spokes end up attaching to, or am i going on a tangent?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    I am assuming the freehub hub has gone - you did say you got no drive but the cassette turns which means it has stuck at some point. They can sometimes be rescued by sqyuirting WD40 in them and then chain lube.

    The freehub body is the splined bit, ie this:

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... delID=1161

    It attaches to the rest of the hub (where the spokes are) via a 10mm hex bolt that you slide into the hub body with the axle out. Buying the whole hun gets you lots of spares (just remove what you need). For details on how to remove the axle, check Park tools 'hub overhaul'.

    But as you say, check your warranty.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    supersonic
    from reading the above text it just seems that the lock ring needs tigtening. the cogs do rock on the splines a bit as standard.

    just tighten the lockring correctly and use. As i bet that is all the shop will do.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown