Essential road kit and pedal questions...

Iain C
Iain C Posts: 464
edited June 2008 in Road beginners
Road bike arrives in a few days...can't wait! However I usually ride a full suss MTB and I'd like some advice with regards to what I should be wearing and taking on a road run. I guess there will be a few differences...excuse my ignorance. I've put some guesses/questions in brakets...

So this is what I'd normally do...

Shimano shoes on M520 SPDs (any reason why I can't wear these very comfy shoes on my roadie? I was going to fit the M520s on the roadie and upgrade my MTB to XTR...surely that's cheaper than shoes and pedals for the roadie...)

Baggy shorts (I'm guessing lycra on the roadie...will non-bib shorts fall down?)

Jersey with pockets, riding socks and cycling glasses (fairly safe here I guess)

S Works 2D lid (why do roadie ones not have peaks? Do I just take the peak off my 2D lid? What's the point?)

Gloves (1st/2nd fingers are full finger)

Camelbak rucksack to keep stuff in (underseat storage instead?)

Camelbak bladder (I guess water in a bottle instead...why?)

Slime bands in my tyres (yes or no for a road bike?)

1 or 2 spare tubes plus possibly stick on patches in case it's really thorny or I get pinch flats (do peorple botehr or are patches enough?)

Canondale dual action mini pump in water bottle mount or Camelbak (pump or CO2? Where does it go?)

35-45 PSI in the tyres (120 psi?)

Multitool with chain breaker, hex keys etc (needed or not? Less to go wrong I guess...?)

Front fork locked out with ProPedal enaged on the rear shock for climbing (try as I might i can't seem to get any wheel travel info on the Giant TCR Alliance 1...I have a feeling this might mean it's a hardtail.... :lol: )

Thanks in advance...and have I forgotten/need to buy anything?


  • Zendog1
    Zendog1 Posts: 816
    Wow thats a big list - a few thoughts.

    520's will be fine until you get into carbon road shoes.

    Licra shorts with padding will seriously help your sit bones get used to skinny high pressure tires. Bibs are more comfortable but not essential.

    If you have a peak on you can't see where you are going - flatter position on a roadie. Ditto with a camelbak - really sweaty back. It's best to go for bottles and a saddle pack.

    No slime - spare tubes definately (I pack two).

    Pump on frame is best (opinion).

    120 might be a bit harsh to start with 23's - try 90-100 as an intro.

    Multitool just in case but I've only used mine once in the last 12k road miles.

    Cheers and enjoy
  • Rich Hcp
    Rich Hcp Posts: 1,355
    As above.

    I have bought a Camelbak for use on my MTB, I'll use it occasionally on the roadie.

    Most people use fingerless gloves, but use what's comfortable.

    Don't bother with slime, spare tubes are the best bet and invest in some more 'p*nc*re risistent tyres.

    I carry one allen key, to adjust saddle height

    Try the peaked helmet you have, I use my one without a peak for botth types of riding.

    Lastly, always wave and say hello to other cyclists :lol:

    Giving it Large
  • Iain C
    Iain C Posts: 464
    Good tips, thanks guys.

    The helmet peak was obvious really wasn't it! I'm sure I would have worked out why the peak had to come off the moment I got on the bike! :D
  • acorn_user
    acorn_user Posts: 1,137
    The others have covered most things. There's nothing wrong with "mtb" pedals on "road bikes. I know a lot of people who use them, including myself (Time ATAC). It's nice to be able to walk around in the shoes.

    The other thing is tyre pressure. 120psi is too high! If you ride that high a pressure, you will get beaten up by the bike. It's usually better to run the pressure a little lower and have a smoother ride and better cornering.
  • nkirussell
    nkirussell Posts: 16
    When I was a medical school one of the neurosurgeons that taught us said that having a peak on your bike helmet can cause a rapid twisting of your head if you were to fall off your bike and the corner of the peak hit the road first. He said that this twisting can be rapid enough to cause sheering forces between the white and grey matter in your brain resulting in neuronal disruption.

    Always seemed like a good enough reason to me not to wear a helmet with a peak on the road. But clearly any helmet is better than none at all!!
  • Iain C
    Iain C Posts: 464
    I'd heard something similar about helmet design, but for motorbikes. The scary looking Simpson (as worn by The Stig) is actually illegal on the road for that very reason amongst others (the shape, not the peak) and that's why it's pretty unique in terms of design AFAIK. Not sure how Moto-X helmets do though!

    It's an easy job to take my peak off (one clip) and TBH it would probably deform anyway.

    Couple of other questions, can anyone recommend a reasonably proced wireless computer and also a seat bag that won't look too out of place? I'd rather keep tubes, patches levers etc in a bag rather than in my jersey as they can hurt if you fall on them...or is this a roadie no-no?
  • clu
    clu Posts: 89
    I always carry some money, just in case. Something to eat also like a chewy cereal oat bar or 2, or perhaps something similar like a nutri-grain bar.

    Sometimes in the past because I'm working hard on the bike my energy just goes, so I eat one of the bars I'm carrying and I feel fine again.

    Just don't carry too much kit, otherwise you'll feel weighed down by non-essential items.
    The only other things I carry in my shirt pockets or on the bike are:
    1. Lightweight showerproof breathable jacket, rolled up in the back pocket of my shirt if the weather starts to turn.
    2. Pair of arm warmers, again if the weather looks changable.
    3. Multitool for just in case.
    4. Mini cycle pump attached to the frame.
    5. A bottle or 2 on my bike with water or a drinks formula if I'm doing a long ride.

    A recommendation for your saddle bag would be:
    I've used these with all my road bikes, I can get 2 spare inner tubes in with a tyre lever tool which is all I need. I think the black colour looks quite nice on any bike.

    Because I prefer shimano, I use their wireless flightdeck computer system which works with their STI levers. Absolutely love it, but it does cost a bit more than other systems. Again I've only used this system so I can't recommend anything else.

    Apart from that enjoy your new bike.
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  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    120PSI is not necessarily too high for 23mm tyres - it depends on your road surface, your weight and your riding style.

    I generally keep about 120PSI in my rear tyre, I don't get shaken to bits or bounce around everywhere, but my risk of pinch flats is massively reduced.

    My front tyre is around 100PSI.
    I like bikes...

  • nferrar
    nferrar Posts: 2,511
    Pedals - MT520's should be fine. Personally though I bought roadie pedals/shoes as they're designed for the typically longer rides and have less compromises for walking so usually stiffer soles and a wider engagement area.

    Shorts - if you're in shape I'd go lycra bibs, personally I'm still using my MTB baggies for the time being ;)

    Jersey - pockets if not using a camelbak for storage

    Helmet - I just use my MTB helmet with peak, only hassle is when you're in an aero position going downhill as the peak obscures the road.

    Camelbak? - I use a Camelbak for MTBing but on the road bike I use bottle + under-seat bag for tools + jersey pockets (energy bar/iPod/phone/wallet). Nothing inherently wrong with using a Camelbak on the road though just it's not as comfy on longer rides I find (in winter if I'm takjing spare layers etc. I'll probably revert to using a Camelbak on the road)

    Tubes - I take a spare tube + repair kit as backup

    Pump - mini pump on seat tube bottle cage mount

    Tools - type levers (make sure you've actually tried taking your tyres off and on in the comfort of your home rather than being 30 miles from home when you first puncture - that's not the time to find out you have a really tight fitting tyre/rim combo and your cheap tyre levers snap :p ). Multi-tool + chain splitter + powerlinks for chain

    If you don't know your local roads very well I'd recommend a Garmin 705 to ;)
  • bigmat
    bigmat Posts: 5,134
    I'd be careful with 120psi - I pumped tyres up to that on Sunday for the dragon ride, was waiting in the queue when my rear tyre went "bang"! I'll stick to a max 110 in future.
  • ive just started on the road from mtb

    i carry a little waterproof and pump , multitool and spare tube +cash/phone in a saddle bag

    a pair of arm warmers + gillet in my jersey with some snacks and a water bottle or two on the bike

    i run crank bros road pedals and use my mtb carbon shoes and cleats

    i keep the peak on my lid as it doesnt get in my vision and i still wear baggies

    i may carry too much due to coming from mtb where we seem to carry everything for any problems lol but its ok for me