New back wheel - to be used on trainer
johnbirkby46213
Posts: 399
I currently have 2 bikes that could be using the turbo trainer. But both are used "for real" so to speak. I have so far shredded 2 good tyres on the trainer (and I know its set up correctly as it was done so by "Julies of Leicester".)
So my cunning plan is to buy a really cheap rear wheel, (700C) put a really cheap cassette on it and use that with my so far unused turbo tyre. That way, if I need the bike that's on the trainer, it'll only take a few minutes to swop the wheel over.
Where is the flaw in my cunning plan? And if there isn't one, suggestions for really cheap wheels and cassette accepted!
JB
So my cunning plan is to buy a really cheap rear wheel, (700C) put a really cheap cassette on it and use that with my so far unused turbo tyre. That way, if I need the bike that's on the trainer, it'll only take a few minutes to swop the wheel over.
Where is the flaw in my cunning plan? And if there isn't one, suggestions for really cheap wheels and cassette accepted!
JB
2 minute grovels can sometimes be a lot longer..tho' shorter on a lighter bike :-)
Ride the Route Ankerdine Hill 2008
http://peterboroughbigband.webplus.net/index.html
Ride the Route Ankerdine Hill 2008
http://peterboroughbigband.webplus.net/index.html
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Comments
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Hi there.
Yup good plan, do the same myself - I didn't buy a cheap wheel though, just upgraded my most bent back wheel and used that one instead.
I've never used a turbo-specific tyre though, I've a good supply of mostly worn, fairly cut-up tyres that are no good for the road anymore.
Cheers, Andy0 -
A very sensible plan!
It's useful to get a wheel with the same hub as your proper wheel and same cassette size (eg if your good wheel has a Dura Ace 11-23, use a 105/Tiagra/Sora 11-23) so the sprockets will be in the same place and no rear mech fiddling is needed.
The most appropriate wheel choice will depend on what you have already. Generally sticking to the same brand of factory wheel, the spacings will be the same, though check once you've narrowed down the options as some aren't. If you want to be fussy you can have a dedicated chain mated with the turbo cassette too. KMC chains are very easy to change using the quick link which allows you to remove by hand.
Normal tyres will be shredded on a turbo because of high temperature - it's nothing to do with your setup as you say - so you're right this is a good solution if you plan a lot of turbo work0 -
Hi there.
I stuck my climbing cassette on the turbo wheel (12-27) - mostly because it had been sitting unused in my shed since I did the etape a few years ago...
However I find I need easier gears on the turbo, but maybe that's just because this resistance is fairly high?
Either way, I've never needed to fettle anything when I switch back to 11-23 (racing gears) or 12-12 (time trial gears).
Cheers, Andy0 -
It's a good plan. I got a Shimano R500 rear wheel from Parkers for about £30 and use it with a conti turbo tyre.
Neil--
"Because the cycling is pain. The cycling is soul crushing pain."0 -
Andy- am I reading right that when swapping different cassette ratios you don't need to go near the derailleur adjustment? I am considering getting a second set of wheels with a 12-27 cassette (or maybe SRAM's 11-28 ) on my tourer (not for a trainer) and I am wondering if this would be easily swappable with the 11-25 (or maybe 12-25, would have to double check) that is on there at the moment. I am presuming that the extra two teeth won't need a longer chain. I have a long cage derailleur (Ultegra) already.0
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blorg wrote:Andy- am I reading right that when swapping different cassette ratios you don't need to go near the derailleur adjustment? I am considering getting a second set of wheels with a 12-27 cassette on my tourer (not for a trainer) and I am wondering if this would be easily swappable with the 11-25 (or maybe 12-25, would have to double check) that it is on there at the moment. I am presuming that the extra two teeth won't need a longer chain. I have a long cage derailleur already.
Hi there.
No you should be fine. Worst case scenario is that you might need to twiddle the in-line adjuster half a turn (the one on or near the top of your downtube).
Cheers, Andy0 -
Thanks for that Andy.0