Stroker Ryde Help, Alot Of Rubbing.

jedi_master

I have fitted a set of Hayes Stroker Ryde brakes to my brother GT Avalanche 3 but the is alot of rubbing. I followed the instructions fully and but they say there should be a equal gap between the pads and the disc but the inner pad(nearest the spokes) is touching the disc and i cannot move the calipar any more across to make a gap between the pad and the disc, when installing i did not pull the lever plus the brakes came with a plastic shim between the pads. Looking at this picture you can see roughly what i mean as you can see the pad touching the disc if you look through the gap


The pic is without the lever being squeezed.

Any ideas? i know theres normally a small amount of rubbing until the discs and bedded in and settled down but this is a lot more than a little.

redvee

There should be some pad adjustment on the calliper, an allen socket, back this off 1/8 ~ 1/4 turn. If that fails then you need to align the calliper on the frame better.

Undo the two allen bolts that hold the calliper on the bracket, not the two bolts that hold the bracket tto the frame, the two bolts facing you in the pic above. Squeeze the lvere and the calliper should centralize itself over the disc then tighten the two bolts and you may need to adjust the pads.

Splasher

Slacken the two bolts that hold the caliper onto the adapter and slide the caliper across before retightening. If the caliper wont move with the bolts loose, because it is hard up against one end of the slots, take the whole caliper off (including the adapter) and re-install with an M6 washer between the frame and the caliper in each of the two frame mount positions. This will move the whole assembly across a washers thickness giving enough clearance in the slots to get the caliper centred.

jedi_master

redvee wrote:

Undo the two allen bolts that hold the calliper on the bracket, not the two bolts that hold the bracket tto the frame, the two bolts facing you in the pic above. Squeeze the lvere and the calliper should centralize itself over the disc then tighten the two bolts and you may need to adjust the pads.

This is what i did first time round but i gave it another go but this time i first removed the clip that was holding the hose in place on the rear of the frame and then done as you described but i used a elastic band to hold the lever while i done the bolts up and now the back brake is sweet as no rubbing at all, now the front brake is a different story squeezing the lever didn't work the inner pad still drags alot on the disc, i also tried aligning the caliper by eye and still the inner pad drags when locking the brake it also flex's the disc a bit where as the rear one doen't seem to, the front disc it's self has a slight looks like it has a about a 1mm movement too one side on one point on the disc(it hasn't received any damage) the inner pad also looks to be in more where as after adjusting the back the back pad seems fine.

Want to try and get the front the same as the rear.


Here's a pic of the caliper off the bike, is the left pad meant to be where it is or is the piston out further than it should be..

Splasher

You need to shove the pads back by pushing the plastic wedge that came with the brakes back in or using a tyre lever to gently pry them apart. Once both pistons are fully back in, you can align the caliper as before.

jedi_master

Splasher wrote:

You need to shove the pads back by pushing the plastic wedge that came with the brakes back in or using a tyre lever to gently pry them apart. Once both pistons are fully back in, you can align the caliper as before.

Is that fully safe to do it that way as the manual says to remove the pads and then use the box end of a 9mm wrench to push the piston back in. Just need to make sure before i go ahead and do it.

Thanks

Splasher

If you use the plastic wedge that came with the brakes, it's completely safe. If you use something more agressive, it's down to you not to be so rough that you damage the friction material on the pad. But with new brakes you should just about be able to push them back with your fingers so the force required should be very small.

jedi_master

I moved the piston back in with the plastic shim yet still the left side pad in the above pic drags so i took the caliper off again pushed the piston back again but this time i squeezed the lever a tad with the caliper off(i know i shouldn't really) and the right side piston in the pic above doesn't seem to move out. Both pistons on the rear move fine.

Splasher

Sounds like a sticky piston so you need to hold the piston that does move and then sqeeze the lever to enourage the sticky piston to move. Then push them both back and repeat until when you squeeze the lever, they both move out at the same rate.

Then re-install and centre as before.

jedi_master

Splasher wrote:

Sounds like a sticky piston so you need to hold the piston that does move and then sqeeze the lever to enourage the sticky piston to move. Then push them both back and repeat until when you squeeze the lever, they both move out at the same rate.

Just tried that and it doesn't seem to be working, i took the pads out and used the box end of a 9mm spanner like in the manual and the left piston in the pic moves fine but the right only moves out about 1mm if that.

stubs

sounds like you need to send them back to the shop

Splasher

Did you prevent the left piston from coming out to force the right one to move? This is what you need to do to get the sticky one moving.

jedi_master

I tried to prevent the left on come out by pushing down on it with the box end of a 9mm spanner but try as i may the left on still forced its way out and the right one nothing.

Splasher

If it's stuck that badly, it sounds like it needs replacement. If you bought it locally I'd take it back as is so they can have a look otherwise you need to contact the supplier if it was mail order and ask them what they want to do.