Any advise on the below bike for a newbie?

monkeyboykev
monkeyboykev Posts: 14
edited May 2008 in MTB beginners
As the title suggestes guys, i'm 100% new to the ownership of a bike let along anything that goes with it. I think the last bike i owned was when i was 17 (i'm now 30 :oops: :oops: ).

Anyway my wife and i have been saying we want bikes for ages now and have finally got round to doing something about it. To give you some back ground, i willl be using it mainly for evryday use but in saying that i will also be looking to 'take it off road' over the South Downs which is local to me so need something that wont break at the 1st sign of anything un-even. I have seen the below bike (click the link)

http://www.sterlinghouse.co.uk/productd ... 571_210308

which as you can see i can get at a very reasonable price but am after advise from someone in the know as to whether said bike is any good or not.

Thanks in advance for any help/advise

Comments

  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Hi and welcome!

    I am going to be frank - it's rubbish lol. Was never ever 400 quid, and is very heavy. Full suspension (ie a rear shock) is to be avoided at this price as its usually undamped (no control, bounces like a pogo), adds weight, and eats up the budget that is beeter spent elsewhere.

    As you are new to the sport, I'd recommend visiting a good local shop and see what is on offer. You'll be ablte to sit on them, get properly sized up, have it built, a free service and easy to reach after sales care - all very unreachable if buying online. You may pay a few more quid, but really is worth it.

    What to llok for? Here is a guide I put together for budget bikes:

    One of the most common questions from beginners on a budget is 'how much shall I spend' or 'what is the minimum I should be looking at'? The componentry levels on bikes are often confusing to many, where certain parts can look very similar from one to another but yet can have a big impact on performance and longevity. The most important factor is fit and comfort which is where testing comes in, but this does not always give a full picture of the bike and how it may last.

    I think for general mountain biking, the following features should be considered: (aimed at buyers spending less than 250 quid)

    - Alloy hardtail frame. Full suspension at the lower end of the market (sub 300 and even upto 500 quid) is heavily compromised. Its very heavy, undamped, poor bearings and pulls down the spec elsewhere. Steel frames at this level are often mild steel and are 2 or 3 pounds heavier than an alloy frame.

    - Suspension fork with alloy crown and one piece lowers. Cheap pressed steel lowers and crowns flex badly. Preload adjusters are a good feature to help set sag and ride height for differing weights.

    - Compact crankset (42/32/22). Many entry level bikes have larger chainrings (48/38/28 ) from cheaper groupsets. This doesn't allow a very low gear and is often over geared for the terrain a MTB will be used on. Replacable chainrings are a bonus.

    - 8 speed freehub. 8 gears from a cassette and freehub gives a better spread than some 7spd screw on freewheels, often 11-32 teeth rather than 14-28. Also this allows the bearings to be spaced further in the hub, allowing a stronger rear wheel/axle. Shimano make the best budget 8 speed set ups.

    - Cartridge bottom bracket. Old adjustable cup and cone bottom brackets are poorly sealed and are prone to coming loose.

    - 32 or 36 spoked wheels. Lots of beginners MTBs are coming with fancy 'paired' spokes, or 24 bladed ones, purely for looks. They use heavy rims, are poorly constructed and are not worth it compared to standard wheels. Look for stainless spokes if possible, and sealed alloy hubs with quick release axles.

    - Alloy components. If possible, ask about the seatpost and bars. Alloy units save some weight, and are more comfortable.

    - Brakes and levers. Make sure the levers aren't plastic as they flex badly. Cable disc brakes stop better in the wet but usually add cost. Don't go for discs over other essential features.

    - Aheadset or threadless headset. Much better bearings and more reliable than the older quill stem and threaded headset.

    Many bikes for 200 pounds now have all these features! Don't be afraid to ask for a saddle swap if they are uncomfortable, and enquire about the quality of the tyres..


    May sound a bit technical, but trust me, it is worth making sure you get the right features. But fit is still most important.
  • Many many thnaks for the info. There's not many bike shops round where i live (well there must be but i dont' know of them having not needed them in the past) apart from Halfrauds!!!! and to be honest i did go in there but the guy didn't seem to know his ar$e from his elbow..........and thats saying something coming from me!!!!
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Try and find a Giant dealer - and the Giant Boulder.
  • supersonic wrote:
    Try and find a Giant dealer - and the Giant Boulder.

    I take it this is the bike you'd reccommend for me satring out?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Its definitely worth looking at! Here it is:

    http://www.awcycles.co.uk/brands/Giant/ ... index.aspx

    Some shops may be cheaper, but has a very good list of components all designed to work well off road. if you like the fit, I'd get one. Only the steel handlebar is the minor downside.
  • supersonic wrote:
    Its definitely worth looking at! Here it is:

    http://www.awcycles.co.uk/brands/Giant/ ... index.aspx

    Some shops may be cheaper, but has a very good list of components all designed to work well off road. if you like the fit, I'd get one. Only the steel handlebar is the minor downside.

    Many thanks
  • What are your thoughts on this one?

    http://www.citycycleschichester.com/default.aspx?p=1746
  • toslow
    toslow Posts: 85
    After reading this conversation i wholeheartedly agree with supersonic about the sort of bike you should be looking for.

    But to tar all halfords with the same brush is a bit harsh . I agree some of the staff have little on no knowledge of the products they are trying to sell, saying that my local halfords is very good . I own a carrera vanquish road bike and a kraken mtb which are both halfords branded bikes and have been great . Okay i also own better branded bikes for more serious off road pursuits . What i am trying to say is find another halfords , because for your budget a carrera may also be a good option such as a 08 kraken or if you can stretch to a fury which in my opinion is a great bike .

    All bike shops are not created equal . Apart from halfords there is only ONE ' real bike shop ' i will go to in west country and i have tried loads.

    Please , please don't think i having a go .I'm over the moon that you are getting into cycling , it changed my life for the better in lots of ways. Happy hunting .
  • stato77
    stato77 Posts: 18
    I just went and bought my first bike. I agree, go to a specialist bike shop. I eventually decided on the specialized hardrock sport and got it set up and everything. I went and had a look in halfords but again the staff were inept.

    A big thank you to terry wright's in Peterborough for their help
  • stato77 wrote:
    I just went and bought my first bike. I agree, go to a specialist bike shop. I eventually decided on the specialized hardrock sport and got it set up and everything. I went and had a look in halfords but again the staff were inept.

    A big thank you to terry wright's in Peterborough for their help

    I managed to find and get to a local bike shop this afternoon & they recommended either the Giant or Specialized range. I'm going back next weekend for some test rides but assuming all goes well i'm probably gonna go for the Hardrock Comp disc. The shop is also doing £50 off all the Specialized range they sell so i can get the above bike for £300 which i didn't think was too bad
  • BlackSpur
    BlackSpur Posts: 4,228
    Hardrocks are reasonable bikes for the money, but others in the price range beat them on spec. They are also quite heavy. What is your total budget?
    "Melancholy is incompatible with bicycling." ~James E. Starrs
  • BlackSpur wrote:
    Hardrocks are reasonable bikes for the money, but others in the price range beat them on spec. They are also quite heavy. What is your total budget?

    Not looking to spent anymore than £300 to be honest. Happy to listen to all/any suggestions.
  • BlackSpur
    BlackSpur Posts: 4,228
    Mongoose Tyax Elite or GT Avalanche 3 (or Aggressor XC3 from Halfords - slightly better spec) are two names which often stand out.
    "Melancholy is incompatible with bicycling." ~James E. Starrs
  • stevepj
    stevepj Posts: 38
    I'm a newbie (and over 40) to this MTB game as well, i actually found a very helpful guy in my local Halfords (he actually does cycling!) and he set me up with the Aggressor XC3. I've had it 2 weeks now and i'm out on it about2/3 times a week and i've found it ideal.
    Why are all the parts i've upgraded on my bike, now standard on the latest model!!
  • Mike Gill
    Mike Gill Posts: 24
    I recently bought a Specialized; an up grade to the budget bike I was using; and saying that; using a budget bike to get into the swing of things is a good idea; you learn to appreciate the higher spec bikes. Paying stupid money on a first bike is not the way forward; and I've only just got back into mtb after nearly 14 years!!!