Please help with rear wheel options for old bike.

elcani

So, my old Ribble project continues to cost ever increasing amounts of money. I've got the stuck seatpost out and the frame is about to be painted. A new Shimano bottom bracket and headset will go in once that's done.

The wheels were going to be one of the few original parts I'd hoped to re-use, but a check of the rear (Suntour) hub has revealed the bearing is horribly rough. So, what to do?

The hub currently has a six speed freewheel (from what I understand not a cassette) on it, so the non-indexed Shimano 600 derailleur obviously works with that and the frame spacing between the rear dropouts is for a 6 speed wheel.

I'm assuming that servicing the rear hub is not practical, and as I'm changing the chain a new cassette is probably a good idea. So, if I buy a new rear wheel (e.g Shimano R500/RS10) that is described as '8/9/10 speed compatible', will I be able to fit a 7 speed cassette onto it and will the wheel fit between the dropouts? I'm presuming the rear derailleur will cope with an extra speed, but is that right? If a modern rear wheel is not going to work, what are my options?

Of course, one option is to go to single speed. Does anyone know where I could buy a ready-built single speed rear wheel, or will I have to buy a standard wheel and get a single speed kit? The front chainset is in ok condition and is a 52/42. Are either of those a decent choice for single speed? I *really* don't want to have to buy a new crankset at this stage, but if I'm going to have to, I need to know before I replace the bottom bracket so I can get the correct axle length.

I realise I've asked a lot of questions, but I hope I've made some sense and would really appreciate any opinions.

Many thanks in advance.

meagain

MANY Questions! Start with the obvious - what is the current rear drop out spacing? I assume 126mm? If so, then a modern 130 OLN rear hub will almost certainly squeeze in manually, without trouble and expense of widening the stays. However, whether or not an 8 or more cassette will fit without fouling the chain stay I do not know. A 7 probably be OK. And no reason why the rear mech and the (non-indexed) shifter would not cope.

Can you not borrow a new wheel(s) and "try for size"?

Can come to the single speed issues as/if necessary, but a 42 probably better than 52 unless you want to push a pretty high gear! 42 will according to rear end allow between mid-50"s and high 70"s.

elcani

Thanks for the reply. I decided I may as well have a go at servicing the hub and took it to bits. It was in a horrible condition inside, sludgy and gritty. The bearing was quite worn, but after a thorough clean-out and loads of new grease, it's running MUCH better. Not perfectly silky smooth, but easily good enough for now. I've done the front as well and it was quite a satisfying achievement!

I'd still be interested in any responses to the above questions, as I imagine I will have to replace the wheels in the nearish future.

robbarker

The rear OLN dimension is likely to be 126mm, which was the standard prior to the current 130mm road (or 135mm mountainbike)

The hubs from that era were specific to the freewheel used (5, 6, 7 and 8 speed all use 3/32 chain width) and a hub designed for a 6 speed freewheel cannot be used with a 7 speed, for example, it would be too wide, even though it would physically screw on. (In fact you might just get away with it, but it will more than likely snag the seatstays). The best policy is to replace like with like, whatever the temptation to squeeze another cog in.

Glad to hear the hubs are OK - I'm doing something similar myself at present (see my other thread) and the hub races are clean as a whistle - weird old Huget hubs I think, made for Raleigh. The Weinmann rims were in good shape too - no signs of wear at all. the thing that was a non-starter was the fact the spokes were seized at the thread/nipple interface, so the solution was strip out the hubs, fit new balls and regrease, cut and remove the spokes and relace with new stainless spokes and brass nipples. When I get round to it I'll post some pics of the renovation.

There is something very satisfying to bringing an old bike back to life - it presents more challenges that a simple build from new components that you know arre going to be compatible.

peanut

what era is the Ribble frame from ? is it a 531C or a 653 ?
I bought my 80's 653 Ribble second hand in 1995 and its still going strong. Flo lobster pink isn't the most popular of colours however. Where are you getting your frame refinished ?
I've got lots of old 80's componants some new and boxed let me know if I can help with anything

elcani

The frame is a Reynolds 531C, I think from the mid-80s. I'm getting the frame blasted and painted by a friend of a friend who has a metal work shop.

The original idea was to buy an old bike to hone my maintenance skills on, keeping spending to an absolute minimum. I was going to re-paint the frame myself, but once I decided the BB and headset needed replacing (£60, fitted) it seemed a shame to install them in a manky frame. So more spending...

The wheels are true, but the spokes are probably seized, the hub races did have some pitting and even after a clean and re-grease are not perfect so they probably won't last long. However, I haven't tinkered with a bike since I was a kid and it has been a lot of fun. I got the LifeLine toolkit from Wiggle for £32 which has been very useful. New cables, brake blocks and jockey wheels are on the way and I'm looking forward to putting it all back together. Setting up the gears is probably the next big nightmare....

Any more general tips or advice would be greatly appreciated

elcani

Out of interest, does anybody know if it's possible to by new parts for old hubs? In particular the bits that screw on to the axle that the ball bearings 'run around' (would they be called a 'race'?). These had some pitting, but if they were replaced along with the ball bearings, I think the wheels would run sweet again.

DavidBelcher

ElCani wrote:

Out of interest, does anybody know if it's possible to by new parts for old hubs? In particular the bits that screw on to the axle that the ball bearings 'run around' (would they be called a 'race'?). These had some pitting, but if they were replaced along with the ball bearings, I think the wheels would run sweet again.

Even in this era of "fit and forget" throwaway parts, a decent bike shop should have the bits you need - the parts that screw on to the axle are the cones, and can still be had as spares (best to take the hub to a shop so that you end up with the right sort). Ditto the ball bearings.

David

NervexProf

Axles, cones and ball bearings here:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/nettys-nic-naks

fenski

Interesting thread for me, because I'm planning to renovate my old Bianchi Caurus 840 from the late 80's so that I can use it for commuting and winter runs.

I will definitely have to replace the wheels because the rims are cracked. Anyone recommend a stockist of wheels which would fit the older dropout spacing?

Thanks

NervexProf

fenski wrote:

Interesting thread for me, because I'm planning to renovate my old Bianchi Caurus 840 from the late 80's so that I can use it for commuting and winter runs.

I will definitely have to replace the wheels because the rims are cracked. Anyone recommend a stockist of wheels which would fit the older dropout spacing?

Thanks

Fenski - you say the rims are cracked; what condition are the hubs in?
I would get a pair of Mavic Open Pro Rims, cost circa £50 from Wiggle, + some 15/17g db spokes - cost circa £12 and do a rebuild. - £62 in all.

fenski

NervexProf - thanks for the suggestion. I'll need to dig the bike out of the shed and have a closer look - although chances are that the hubs are done too.

NervexProf

Fenski - check these out: http://www.woollyhatshop.com/view_product.php?id=1991

I have used Woolyhatshop before, prompt despatch, good value.
Check out the spacing on your fork and rear ends..i.e. OLN space.

meagain

" Bianchi Caurus 840 from the late 80's ......wheels which would fit the older dropout spacing?"

Have you measured the spacing? Not unknown for Italian frames from early '80s, while nominal 126mm, in fact to be "modern" 130. In any case not far to spread!

fenski

Thanks again for the suggestions. I'm sure I tried to put on a wheel from another bike before and it definitely wasn't for fitting. I'll have a look this evening.

fenski

Right enough meagain - the spacing was indeed 130mm - all I need is a spacer and a new 7 speed cassette and I reckon I've got a pair of wheels that would fit.

elcani

Silly question. When measuring the space between the dropouts, should one do it from the inner side of each dropout or the centre of the dropout? Hope that makes sense...

fenski

I'm not an expert - however when I checked it last night I measured from inner to inner, i.e. the actual hub width.

meagain

What fenski said!