OLN query

fosmaal

Would a 130mm hub fit into a 135mm rear droput, just by sqeezing the releases shut? Or would it be best to cold set it the frame? Or is there some sort of spacer that I could use?

Thanks

rustychisel

If it's a steel frame you can, but it's not the best option. If alloy or carbon fibre, no.
The best option is to find a 135mm hub to fit and build a wheel around that. Alternately you can respace a 130mm hub depending on the axle type, if there's enough axle to space it out and still have enough axle to snug in the dropouts. Sorry, I'm working a bit blind here cause you've not given enough info to assess whether the job is really viable.

fosmaal

Thanks for the reply.

Some more info.

I have some wheels built around a tiagra hubs, and the option to get a steel frame with a 135 OLN, dont particulary want to re-build the wheels as they have only done a couple or hundred miles. Just wondered what my options were? Even if the answer is "wait for another frame"

5mm cannot make that much difference can it?

rustychisel

Ok, if it's a steel frame you can try it out, but most people still recommend cold setting, at best so the frame angles can be checked by a reputable bike shop bloke with a bloody great piece of 4x2, which is commonly what's used for 'cold-setting'.

5mm makes a difference for 2 main reasons: it can place significant stresses on welds, and it can mean the dropouts are not properly 'square' which in tuen can have an effect on how snugly the wheel is held in the dropouts. I have done the other way, 'spread' a 126mm to 130mm and the wheel can be pulled to one side somewhat more easily.

What the hell, be adventurous.

PS: it also makes removing and replacing the wheel a damn sight more annoying

meagain

I assume Q/R axles, which rules out re-spacing. Have you measured the 135 with the frame "at rest" (no wheel!). Spacing not always precisely as nominal. If say in reality 132, then I'd pull it in manually with the skewers. If true 135, then....up to you! If want to bring it in a bit then use some soft wood and put it in a vice: bring it down gradually to 125 and it MIGHT rest at 130! Worked for me.

YOUR decision however!

nicklouse

I assume Q/R axles, which rules out re-spacing

or you could change the axle for an MTB 135OLD Qr one?

meagain

nicklouse wrote:

I assume Q/R axles, which rules out re-spacing

or you could change the axle for an MTB 135OLD Qr one?

THAT sounds good thinking!

DavidBelcher

meagain wrote:

I assume Q/R axles, which rules out re-spacing. Have you measured the 135 with the frame "at rest" (no wheel!). Spacing not always precisely as nominal. If say in reality 132, then I'd pull it in manually with the skewers. If true 135, then....up to you! If want to bring it in a bit then use some soft wood and put it in a vice: bring it down gradually to 125 and it MIGHT rest at 130! Worked for me.

YOUR decision however!

Some makers - Surly, I think, and there may be others - deliberately manufacture certain frames with a dropout spacing of 132mm so that it's easier to make 135mm or 130mm OLN hubs fit.

David

robbarker

You'd be better off replacing the hub with something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NIB-Shimano-Deore ... dZViewItem

As long as you get a hub with the same flange size you can reuse the spokes.

You'll end up with a stronger wheel becuse it will have less dish.

If you don't fancy having a go yourself, an LBS should be able to do this for not very much, especially if you dismantle the wheel first - that can be a bit time-consuming.

If you're feeling brave, get Roger's book from www.wheelpro.co.uk, borrow a truing stand, spoke key and nipple driver and have a go!

meagain

"If you're feeling brave, get Roger's book from www.wheelpro.co.uk, borrow a truing stand, spoke key and nipple driver and have a go!"

Or....just follow the steps on Sheldon's site. You will need a spoke key and a nipple driver makes life easier. Use the frame rather than a truing stand. It's all easy enough, honest!